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Author: Subject: Way O/T Kitchen Ventilation
Guinness

posted on 11/10/06 at 09:29 AM Reply With Quote
Way O/T Kitchen Ventilation

Hi

Can anyone help me design a ventilation system for my kitchen and bathroom?

Basically we have been told by a surveyor that the damp we have in the ground floor walls is condensation and we need to improve ventilation in the house (100 year old terrace).

Currently we have no extract fan in the kitchen, nor in the bathroom, but we do have a cooker hood which re-circulates into the kitchen (once it's been through the filter).

The bathroom is directly above the kitchen.

What I was thinking of was a light / fan above the shower in the bathroom, ducted through the ceiling / wall to the external wall. This would be operated whenever the bathroom light is switched on.

The kitchen is a bit more complex. There isn't an external wall from the kitchen (guess who built a carport outside to build his Indy in!). So I was thinking of installing two ducts through the kitchen ceiling into the airing cupboard in the bathroom and out the external wall on the first floor. The first duct would have an in line fan from the kitchen ceiling to the outside, which would run whenever the kitchen light was on. The second duct would connect to the cooker hood and run to air. Would I need a second in line fan to help get the air to the external vent?

Can anyone see any potential problems with this, or think of a way of only using one duct from the kitchen? (Without the cooker hood blowing out the ceiling vent).

Thanks

Mike






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graememk

posted on 11/10/06 at 09:32 AM Reply With Quote
or buy a £80 dehumidifier?






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clockwork

posted on 11/10/06 at 09:49 AM Reply With Quote
Have you got double glazing?
That is often the problem in a lot of older houses, sashes are better as they are draughty. You could put in some airbricks, they make a lot of difference. I assume you have an open car port ?

As regards bathrooms - do you have an internal bathroom (i.e. no windows) if so

"What I was thinking of was a light / fan above the shower in the bathroom, ducted through the ceiling / wall to the external wall. This would be operated whenever the bathroom light is switched on."

That's what we've got, it sortof works, but the bathroom still goes mouldy pretty quick. It's also quite noisy.

We just leave the windows open . . .

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trifield

posted on 11/10/06 at 10:15 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Guiness

You must be careful if there are any open flue gas appliances in the kitchen or in an adjoining room that has a door opening into the kitchen.

Extractor fans can overcome the 'flue pull' of open flue gas appliances and cause them to 'spill' their products of combustion, including Carbon Monoxide, back into the room.

Any such appliances would need to be tested with the extractor fan running.

Neil

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Guinness

posted on 11/10/06 at 10:32 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks Guys

Neil, we have a wall mounted gas boiler in the kitchen, does that count as "open flue"? No other gas appliances in the house (other than the oven / hob).

The boiler has a pipe within a pipe to fresh air, hot gas comes out the middle and cold air goes in round the edge.

Cheers Mike

P.S. Left the bathroom window open once, some twat climbed up the ladder, squeezed himself through the window and helped himself to all my dvd's, cd's, the wifes jewelery and the kids piggy bank. Won't be doing that again.

[Edited on 11/10/06 by Guinness]






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Peteff

posted on 11/10/06 at 11:32 AM Reply With Quote
Could you put a vent in the kitchen ceiling/bathroom floor so the air could be extracted from both by one fan. Is the damp low down as old terraces don't usually have a damp course, also I have found that most condensation problems are caused by temperature differences so if you can minimise them you will reduce the problem. The boiler is a balanced flue so it should be alright to use an extractor.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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peterriley2

posted on 11/10/06 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
couldnt you just let the extractor ducting come through the wall into the carport, im sure the indy doesnt care how it looks in there???





Joel

If you dont respect yourself, dont expect respect from anyone else
Live your dreams, dont dream your life
Women only want you for one thing- everything!

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trifield

posted on 11/10/06 at 02:25 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds like you have a room sealed boiler with a balanced or fan driven flue. This would not be affected.

Neil

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clockwork

posted on 11/10/06 at 02:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

P.S. Left the bathroom window open once, some twat climbed up the ladder, squeezed himself through the window and helped himself to all my dvd's, cd's, the wifes jewelery and the kids piggy bank. Won't be doing that again.



No big angry dog then . . .

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JoelP

posted on 11/10/06 at 07:03 PM Reply With Quote
just stick the extractor on a 5" pipe and run it whereever it has to go. Just make it as short as possible. Is it not possible just to duct it to the car port? It would be very difficult to add an inline fan as you would have to dissemble the extractor to wire it in.

Same for the bathroom, and make sure you get one with an overrun feature so it stays on after the light goes out. Will need a 3 core wire for that.

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owelly

posted on 11/10/06 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
I would go sown the air brick route.
Get as much air circulating under the floor boards (or through the lower bit of the house if you have concrete floors), and the heat escaping up through the house will do the rest.





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

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