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Author: Subject: Fitting Floor - use sealant or not?
Slater

posted on 19/5/07 at 07:36 PM Reply With Quote
Fitting Floor - use sealant or not?

Hi
I am at the stage of riveting the chequer plate floor, the guys at MAC#1 have recommended not using any sealant, so any water can drain out easily. But after reading some build diarys I notice that many people do use a sealant.

Comments please, pros/cons, any advice welcome ....

Keith.





Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.

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auzziejim

posted on 19/5/07 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
i used a pu sealant and dont regret it one bit. over the last few weeks my car has been at work so i could do some work on it and when sitting outside the days it rained (torrentially some days) it dried out suprisingly quickly so drainage is not an issue but the sealant will act as a rust prevention as water ingress around the rivets and holes in the chassis can/will begin the tin worm invasion.
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bigrich

posted on 19/5/07 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Keith

I used foam tape on my chassis before i fitted the floor pans this does provide a seal but also allows water to seep out over a time due to being slightly porous.
I did think that it was part of the kit, but may be wrong, as i did request it from them. check your kit boxes to see if you have a roll of it. if not then i would seal it but its not strictly necessary

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craig1410

posted on 19/5/07 at 08:53 PM Reply With Quote
I would say seal the water out of the joints because once rust starts in the seams you will never get rid of it. If you need drainage then drill some holes and fit rubber grommets.

I welded my floor and then poured thinned etch primer into the joints and let it run through. I then dried this thoroughly and did the same with gloss black Dulux weathershield. Once that had dried I did all the seams with body seam sealer and then repainted with black weathershield. Should keep the tin worm out!

Craig.

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Avoneer

posted on 19/5/07 at 08:57 PM Reply With Quote
Seal any panels you attach with some form of PU or silicone.

Will help prevent rattles.

Pat...





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Avoneer

posted on 19/5/07 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
And as said above, drill a couple of 8mm holes in the back corners behind the seats to let any offending water out.

Pat...





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Slater

posted on 19/5/07 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
I think I'll put some bathroom type clear silicone on the tubes just before fitting the floor. I was thinking about the rust prevention thing and keeping water out of the rivet holes. A few drilled holes in the corners of the floor can let out any water.





Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.

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whitestu

posted on 19/5/07 at 09:28 PM Reply With Quote
I sealed mine with PU, but I haven't been out in the rain yet!

I can't imagine it matters much either way, but then I've been drinking.

Stu

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Mark Allanson

posted on 19/5/07 at 10:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slater
I think I'll put some bathroom type clear silicone on the tubes just before fitting the floor. I was thinking about the rust prevention thing and keeping water out of the rivet holes. A few drilled holes in the corners of the floor can let out any water.



Bathroom sealant cured through acetic acid evaporation - so you have steel, aluminium and a moderately strong acid....


Buy some tiger seal, £2 more expensive, but worth every penny





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caber

posted on 19/5/07 at 11:35 PM Reply With Quote
Aluminium + steel + water makes a good battery with the Aluminium being eaten. Look at old Discos and Rangies particularly around the door bottoms where water settles.Ally worm will be present and if you get the skin off the steel will be pretty rotten too!. I would use PU and paint the steel with something thick and sticky first to keep them as far apart as possible. Ally rivets will be best, if the other precautions work it will remain dry where they touch steel if you use the closed end type.

Caber

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