AS per the title really, as anybody done this conversion into a kit?

I'm looking at changing the engine this winter and was originally using a T5 turbo lump, but the engine
i had is beyond economical repair and to be honest the gearbox issue was putting me off. I suppose i see
it as a blessing in disguise really.

The simplicity (in my eyes! ) of using the Nissan engine and box seems a more viable option?

Cheers Peeps,

Nick.

I don't know how easy it is, but I've seen one in a robin hood and one in a viento.

They go like bats out of hell...

I have a Nissan turbo in my Dutton its a tall engine but it did fit without chopping holes in the bonnet

Saab turbo instead! We were going to go down the 200 route but they were all knackered or too expensive 'cause the sellers advertise them as 'drift project' rather than 'knackered old Nissan'. Our Saab 900S donor cost £300, couldn't find many 200sx's for less than £600 and most of those weren't in a condition to be able to drive home.

Loads of power, will do intergalactic mileage and very easy to tune. Most have led an easy life too.

DRC INDY 7 has fitted one to his Indy hit 137 down the back straight at Bruntingthorpe plent of pictures in his archive. It is a tall engine and I know he is running slighty higher off the ground than when he had the pinto fitted

Cheers guys...

I'll have look at the various cars.

Not wishing to offend anyone, but to me the Saab conjures up images of Cloth Caps and Cigars!

Just saying!

I will take you out in mine. the only impression the Saab engine makes are Brown. they really are monsters in a light weight car

i did it in my viento, it is very tall and you cant shorten the engine at all

budget to do it is about £2.5-£3k thats from start to finish with aftermarket ecu and a few nice bits

quote:

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Originally posted by ashg
I will take you out in mine. the only impression the Saab engine makes are Brown. they really are monsters in a light weight car

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I kind of hate to bring this up, but my CA18DET bit the dust the other day because it hit the ground, lost oil pressure and seized on the spot. You can't buy modded sumps for them, and mine just hung down a little too low. Went like crazy just prior to that though. I drove it about 6 times. Personally, over there, you have such choice, I would avoid it, as tempting as it might be.

the saab b204 b205 and b234 b235 will mate to a vauxhall omega box and use the saab starter motor. all you need to do is pack out the omega clutch slave cylinder by 23mm so that it can actuate the saab clutch. the reason for this is that the omega has a dual mass flywheel which is much thicker than the saab solid flywheel.

Few years back now put the s14 version into my la gold pro comp so smaller than most locost

Easy conversion tbh and 7 wires on oem ecu and your off

Conversation cost about 1500 all in but can do the work myself and solid mounted

Uprated rad a must for heavy track use but std other tuan upping the boost to 13psi on stock ecu

Duncan

I built my striker out of my written off s14a. I was abit out of my depth as far as ecu etc are concerned but pulled it off chopping the standard loom and ecu in the end.
Its basically a very drivable 250hp bolted in with a gearbox and diff all with nissan reliability and no rolling road setup costs.will pull from 30mph at tickover in 5th up, or take off like a scalded cat if you let it boost.in my opinion a cheap way to get very reliable power.and if you want more theres plenty of tweeks to see 500+ if you have a thick wallet.

Chris

Ps as said above it is a tall engine hence I had to make my own nosecone and front bodywork. Wasnt a problem as I was starting from scratch and just didn't buy them off raw.may be an issue to consider tho

[Edited on 2/4/15 by StrikerChris]

I have a CA18DET in my scimitar hillclimber. Puts out 360hp.

Theres so much tinternet bollox about these engines its unbelievable. There are as many knackered ones out there as knackered cossie YBs coz they are cheap to tune.

Tinternet tells of chocalate bearings. This is half true. Most fail when the boost is turned up to 11 by a muppet when the engines not been serviced or oil changed in 100,000 miles. The bearings are softer so the act as a fuse. If they start to knock, stop immediately and only the bearings will need changing.

So thats the bad points.
For the good, buy an engine and box youve driven in a car before removing. Many s13s are as rotten as a pear so whole cars are best buy. Remove engine, box full loom, ecu and propshaft and flog the rest, your donor items will be virtually free.
It is rather tall but not more than say a YB cossie. A completely std one in good health will see 220hp in std fettle with a Horsham chip on std T25 turbo and very little lag, good drivability. A bigger T28 from the s14 200sx, another chip, 444cc injectors from a nissan skyline, a differing afm from a Z32 300zx and 275+hp is on tap. Pistons need chaning to forged at 280-300hp threshold (450quid) and aftermarket steel rods at 300hp ish at 250 quid a set.

If you want to really make it awesome, lightweight steel flywheel, HKS steel headgasket, 550cc-750cc injectors, ARP headstuds and a pair of hit cams (tomei, hks or Autosprint) and a bigger turbo such as GT2871R and you get a tough as nails good power band motor that will see nearly 400hp. 500+hp is do able but the power band narrows just like a YB.
The nissan 16v head design is a peach, flows great and only bare minimum of cleaning up is needed, no need to alter valve sizes at all.
Always use top quality fully synyh oil though, it is critical to lifespan. My personal fave is Mobil1 Motorsport 10/60w (no rebranded long life). Never lost an engine and have thrashed the balls off mine :-)

Im a fan of them as you may tell :-)

Anyone want pics of modified sumps or more info, pics etc u2u me and will send them next week from my work pc.