How do i stop it, done trackday at Blyton today, fitted slicks to the rear that made it better. played around with pressures but did not make any difference. But i did do an Ariel Atom before my head gasket blew. ( Have got it on film will post later)
have a look here
http://www.pickuptruckracing.com/tuning-guide.phtml
might be very helpful!
written for oval racing though, so bear that in mind
[Edited on 15/4/12 by blakep82]
What rear end set up have you got; live axle, IRS, De Dion etc?
Is it worse on left or right hand turns (or the same on both)?
De Dion and same on both
[Edited on 15/4/12 by madteg]
quote:
Originally posted by madteg
How do i stop it, done trackday at Blyton today, fitted slicks to the rear that made it better. played around with pressures but did not make any difference. But i did do an Ariel Atom before my head gasket blew. ( Have got it on film will post later)
NEVER NEVER NEVER ITS TO MUCH FUN.
Assuming nothing is wrong with your geometry (for example toe-out on the rear or running out of suspension travel on rear)
You need to change the roll stiffness at one end ---- to reduce oversteer either soften the rear or stiffen the front.
This either means changing springs or fit an anti-roll bar on the front.
Personally I would try adding a thin (soft) anti-roll bar on the front.
[Edited on 15/4/12 by britishtrident]
My guru's theory (which I agree with) is to go to the other end of the car.
If you have oversteer, suggesting a lack of rear end grip, I've had success in slightly softening the dampers and simultaneously stiffening up
the front end.
Tamed the rear end down very well.
Tyre pressures are sensitive too.
You might wish to check temperatures after giving it death, just to see that all of the tyre is working.
I had the same on track today at Blyton (I was in the Slow red Stylus)
My rear shocks damping was too high, meaning it was too stiff at the rear. dropped it down a lot of clicks and took a passenger and it improved
massivly. This was based on what the track instructor and a couple of others that drove my car recomended.
Ideally I could do with dropping down from 250lb springs on the rear to 225.
Another tip is what Rake are you running, more rake (rear height) will promote more oversteer.
Do you get much understeer with the current setup?
Stiffening or softening the dampers should only really affect transient oversteer/understeer balance it won't alter the
oversteer/understeer balance when turning a constant radius.
On a light car the initial setting for the dampers is towards the very soft end of the adjustment range, if the dampers are too stiff the car will
feel great but because the dampers are too stiff the suspension won't keep the tyres in firm contact with the road and will tend to throw you
into the boonies without any warning.
By stiffening the roll stiffness at the front you are in effect robbing grip from the inside front wheel and transferring grip to the rear
inside wheel.
I don't fully understand the whole thing yet, but I was just going on advice from the track instructor and a few of my mates that are far more
experienced in track matters than me. And all I know is it worked for me, it made a massive improvement and saved my day from being really crap.
Ideally I need softer springs on the rear but thats not giong to happen on the day.
With hindsight and if the head gasket held perhaps having a few laps with the instructer and posing the question he might have been able to point you
in the right direction. I know its the best £££ I ever spent having him telling me alot of information
[Edited on 15/4/12 by Alfa145]