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Fury silencer position - comments please!
JekRankin - 11/7/12 at 10:52 AM

Looking for some comments on the position of my Fury's silencer. Currently, as it exits the collector, exhaust pipe/silencer tucks in towards the chassis at the silencer exit, whilst running level with the upper chassis rail.

This all fits inside the sill piece without touching any of the GRP, but I only have about 20mm clearance between the top of the silencer and the top of the chassis side rail. A lot of cars seem to have their silencers mounted a bit lower than this. I'm worried my silencer is a bit too close to the top of the sill piece?

Rgds.
Jek






[Edited on 11/7/12 by JekRankin]

[Edited on 11/7/12 by JekRankin]


Alfa145 - 11/7/12 at 11:22 AM

I guess it will be ok, just cover all the GRP in that heat reflective matting and make some holes underneath in the GRP to allow air to get through and take the heat with it. Then keep an eye on it for the first few months and see how it performs


MK9R - 11/7/12 at 01:35 PM

Looks very similiar to mine. I have some of that silver reflective tape stuck on the pods and it never seems too hot. Aluminium Passenger side panels do get hot though


fury75lee - 11/7/12 at 02:29 PM

looks like mine too. I used some heat reflective sheeting from Car Builder solutions,, on the inside of the fiberglass side pods, and after 4 years of racing ive just had to replace it.

Mainly because ive snapped 2 exaust mount and then the silencer has been touching the sheeting when moving around, and burned a lttle. If I hadn't it would proabaly have done forever.


snapper - 11/7/12 at 02:32 PM

My mates Fury needed the front wheel arch end of the sill cutting to make a large air input hole
Proper heat mat all round the sill and onthe ally side plates, still gets hot, passenger side compartment.


fury75lee - 11/7/12 at 02:40 PM

just to add more, i did the same with mine.

5 nice big 2-3 inch holes in the end, behind the front wheel and at the back end too, so as to let the air out.


MK9R - 11/7/12 at 02:48 PM

I did the same too


FuryRebuild - 11/7/12 at 03:16 PM

Me too. My side pod is open front and back. As well as being crucial to let the heat out it also let's the noise out and means less chance of nasty resonances. My pod and ally panels were lined with "aluminised acoustic insulating foam". Not cheap but did the job well. there was never ingress of heat to the passenger compartment. Make sure you have a reasonable radius around the pipe exit in the sill. I didn't and it ended up marking and heat damaging the glass.

These openings We're recommended by Mark Fisher and he was very strident about it.


JekRankin - 11/7/12 at 07:00 PM

Thank you all for the replies, I bought some heat reflective matting from Merlin or Rally Design a while back, so I'll line the sill and side panel with this and keep an eye on the temps for the first few miles.

What kind of glue is best to stick the matting down with?

Jek


Alfa145 - 11/7/12 at 07:09 PM

I used PU Adhesive (Sikaflex/Tiger Seal/wurth or many other names) sticks like sh** to a blanket and the heat hasnt affected mine


FuryRebuild - 11/7/12 at 07:28 PM

mine was self adhesive, and when it was on, it was on for good.


TimC - 11/7/12 at 07:44 PM

Bugger. I think, from looking at this, that my exhaust mount is in the wrong place (not on a Fury, but similar.)


matt_gsxr - 11/7/12 at 08:10 PM

quote:
Originally posted by JekRankin

What kind of glue is best to stick the matting down with?




cbs do 1litre pots of contact adhesive that are perfect for this.
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/High_Temperature_Contact_Adhesive_1Ltr_ADHCON

Also the cbs aluminised insulation is really good value for this job.
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Heatmat_Reflective_Insulation_HTMAT


adithorp - 11/7/12 at 08:29 PM

Looks OK to me Jek.
Mine is similar. I've lined the side pod and covered the side pane in heat mat (stuck with the glue Matt has linked to. I've cut out the front and rear and fitted mesh to both. I've also got ducting from the bonnet "nostrils" into the side pod.
It was getting hot when stationary so before a Euro trip I also added several holes along the bottom (at the front) and cut out the top at the rear in the wheel arch. That creates better, convection driven, air flow when stationary. It's been better since.

Edit to add photo's.

Pod as originally fitted


Looks like I have a bit more clearance... but they're all tight.




[Edited on 11/7/12 by adithorp]


JekRankin - 12/7/12 at 08:10 PM

Thanks for the photos Adi, planning to start fitting body panels tomorrow so I'm make sure I get some decent cut outs on the sill flanges.

Once up and running, I'll keep and eye on the temps. Need to get it started first though, but had slight trouble with that today - starter motor is turning, fuel pump priming and coils sparking, but engine wouldn't run. Then noticed that the dash is only reading 11.8V from the battery, so hopefully an overnight charge will have me up and running tomorrow.

Jek