Hi all ! A few weeks ago my exhaust broke just below the manifold part and i took it to csk engineering who fitted a custom made stainless steel manifold .Ive uploaded the old broken part and new fitted manifold pictures into my pride and joy photo archive . I would appreciate it if you could look closely at the pictures and compliment or critisize what you think .cheers - nick

Looks good to me.

Any noticeable improvements in power etc?

pic here


new ss powerflow manifold

quote:

---

Originally posted by CosKev3
Looks good to me.

Any noticeable improvements in power etc?

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by kitcardirect Thanks for that ! Still not worked out how to put pictures on here out of the archive .
pic here


new ss powerflow manifold

---

Go to your archive, click on a photo, copy the forum code and enter the code into your post.

Description

They equal length???

Not equal length but how much does that matter on a pinto? Couple of HP? Not enough to fuss over unless you have a highly tuned pinto and looking for every scrap of power.
Otherwise far to pretty. You are not going to see much change in power unless your old manifold was a dog.

Well I was hoping for a lot more well made , badly made comments after a lot of views on this post . I don't know much about manifolds so I spent a lot of time looking at manifolds before I had this made . Now all the ones I looked at were mandril bent . Now mine doesn't look the same . To me it looks like it's been cut and shaped and then welded right the way round. Correct me if I'm wrong please .also if this was the case then surely there would be weld on the inside of the manifold making it not so free flowing. So would it be possible to make the manifold without welding on the bends ? Would the amount of weld on the inside make hardly any difference? You see when I first saw the new manifold I wasn t expecting to see weld on the bends .the chap who made it said he would try and make the pipes as near as he could to been equal length. Am I being too fussy or is this the only way to get the tight bends ?maybe I'm completely wrong and the bends haven't been welded ! If this was your manifold would you be happy with it ? Yes or no ? That's a lot of questions lol ! Hopefully a lot of answers . Cheers - nick

Looks overly complicated for the job its doing. You'll not notice any extra power unless the engine spec is fairly lairy, though you might spot a drop in mid range torque/drivability depending on the 'tuned' lengths.
Though I appreciate your problem, uncracked cast 4-2 manifolds are pretty thin on the ground these days.
Looks reasonably well made but cant really see form that picture.

Few more answers / opinions please ? More the merrier!

In my opinion(I am no expert) I would say, if you wanted to get every last drop of power out of the car then I would find another one, if it does the job, not likely to fall apart and you are happy enough with it then I wouldn't worry too much. Personally, I would prefer mine to be bent rather than cut and welded to produce the bends.

Ref the welding,

It does look nicely Tig welded, and providing the welder reverse purged the pipes the welds will be neat on the inside too.

Reverse purging means filling the pipe being welded with shielding gas, Argon in Tig welding, that way no contaminants build up on the back of the weld, the penetration is better and the weld neater.

You can only bend tube so far then it splits, becomes too thin in places to be useful, or wrinkles on the inside creating more turbulence than a weld would, mitred welds are common on matched length exhausts, look at race cars.

Overall that looks like a nice manifold, and unless you have ported the head to be an exact match, fitted things like rimflow valves, opened up the ports, the back of the welds is not an issue to you. I would check the heat dissipation though, that rubber hose connected to the copper pipe, and the alternator plug / wiring look pretty close, think about some shielding.

I'd be happy with that on my car, but as others have said, on the road the difference in bhp/torque is not going to be that dramatic, low single figure % at best.

[Edited on 25/8/15 by r1_pete]

It looks to be very close to the alternator and plug lead. Watch for any heat issues.

quote:

---

Originally posted by r1_pete
Ref the welding,

It does look nicely Tig welded, and providing the welder reverse purged the pipes the welds will be neat on the inside too.

Reverse purging means filling the pipe being welded with shielding gas, Argon in Tig welding, that way no contaminants build up on the back of the weld, the penetration is better and the weld neater.

You can only bend tube so far then it splits, becomes too thin in places to be useful, or wrinkles on the inside creating more turbulence than a weld would, mitred welds are common on matched length exhausts, look at race cars.

Overall that looks like a nice manifold, and unless you have ported the head to be an exact match, fitted things like rimflow valves, opened up the ports, the back of the welds is not an issue to you. I would check the heat dissipation though, that rubber hose connected to the copper pipe, and the alternator plug / wiring look pretty close, think about some shielding.

I'd be happy with that on my car, but as others have said, on the road the difference in bhp/torque is not going to be that dramatic, low single figure % at best.

[Edited on 25/8/15 by r1_pete]

---

Thanks for all the advice and information! A good inspection of anything close to the manifold is my next job followed by some heat protection. Cheers - nick

No heat shield on the Alternator ? and is there enough clearance between the manifold pipe and the Alternator?


I've got some photos somewhere of a mates Pinto powered Westfield with a Simpsons full system on it, I'll see if i can find them...

Found it

I spent a week welding up a manifold, replaced 4 cats with 2 x 200 cell and baffled silencers with straight through, expected big gains and it was barely discernible

In hindsight I should have made the primaries from smaller diameter tube rather than using the mandrel bends I had lying around.

The problem with these little cars is insufficient length to get the optimum size, however I bet if you removed and put back to original you would feel a power drop.

quote:

---

Originally posted by perksy
Found it

---

Primary lengths (and secondary for a 4-2-1) need to be matched to the cam being used to get good gains. If they have just used a convenient length to fit on the car, then gains are unlikely to be significant. Then again if you are still running the standard cam the gains are never going to be very large.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dusty
Not equal length but how much does that matter on a pinto?

---