jlayton
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 11:43 AM |
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bec turbo questions
I know this has been covered previously but would like to get things clear in my head before I start buying parts etc. mainly interested in what do
you guys think the best turbo would be, oil water cooled etc? starting off with 6psi but obviously in time change internals and up the boost.
is it as easy as it seems over all to do the turbo conversion your self?
and are the key parts
fpr
tial waste gate
digi boost controller
poer commander/ignition module
new fuel pump
inter cooler
plenum
headers
injectors
plumbing bits obviously. main question is what turbo would be best, for a reasonable amount of money.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 11:51 AM |
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I'm sure someone on here had a fully self contained turbo with its own oil system, it was on a Bec too. it may be Mark Chandler. looked a much
simpler way of doing things less plumbing etc
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jlayton
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 12:01 PM |
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yeah I seen that but as much as it looked a simpler option it looked pricey on aero chargers site  done a bit of research and by the looks people
are choosing the td04 hl 16t, is this a good option ?
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Proby
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 12:19 PM |
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I'm in the process of getting all the parts together for mine.
What engine are you looking to turbo?
16t has been used on 1100cc I believe
(from a volvo T5, I have one that's going up for sale soon)
13c is recommended for 900cc, it is a low pressure volvo turbo which I'm now using. 6.5psi standard?
It is Mark that used the aerocharger, with good results.
Visit GraphicMonster
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jlayton
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 12:26 PM |
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most likely to be a gsxr 1000 fuel injected model or r1 injected model. the parts list I write is that pretty much everything im going to need! then
just a rr session
cheers for your replies
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 04:17 PM |
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Tis me, my aero charger puts out 7psi, can adjust for more with a couple of washers in the actuator, up to around 12 psi may be possible, it was a
Scootz bargain 
With a decent intercooler I run a completely standard engine which gives me a 65% hike in power, much more and the gearbox may break up!
What you need to include in your list is something to beef up the clutch, do not assume HD springs will sort it.
Check that your ECU Map sensor can accomadate boost, it may only support vacumn in which case a new ECU may be required, at a minimum the MAP sensor
will need replacing.
You may get away fuel injectors by raising the fuel rail pressure or just leaving open a little longer.
No good making massive power if the thing breaks down all the time, if mine goes bang then £400 puts a new engine into mine.
You will also need a low diff and LSD, another £400 on top, gear for at least 140mph.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 12/2/13 by mark chandler]
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Bare
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 06:02 PM |
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Entertaining boost Starts at 1 BAR... 6/7 psi is beginner level.
IMO though Bike engines were never intended for Boost Stresses. Consequently the block stability and even head sealing is not up to decent levels of
Boost... sans V pricey welded in etc. etc reinforcements.
I'd also give serious thoughts to fitting an EGT gauge and a Wide band Lambda setup. In the least... even at 7 psi.
[Edited on 12/2/13 by Bare]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/2/13 at 07:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bare
Entertaining boost Starts at 1 BAR... 6/7 psi is beginner level.
IMO though Bike engines were never intended for Boost Stresses. Consequently the block stability and even head sealing is not up to decent levels of
Boost... sans V pricey welded in etc. etc reinforcements.
I'd also give serious thoughts to fitting an EGT gauge and a Wide band Lambda setup. In the least... even at 7 psi.
[Edited on 12/2/13 by Bare]
Good to see you are still producing your usual derogatory drivel.
Bike engines in general run on low RON fuel so can take low levels of boost without any major expenditure, typically 7-8 psi without issue which
should be within safe limits on the drive train, sticking a couple of shims into mine and I can see 12psi, I prefer to keep it in one piece.
Yes you can spend thousands of pounds boosting to 20psi, that's not the point here if money was not an issue then the game changes, we are
merely making the most of what we have.
My £400 blade engine makes 200hp out of 900cc, you would struggle to find any car engine with that ratio of BHP/cc on that budget and I get a
sequential gearbox thrown in.
Wet my BEC is ~435kg add a human and I am still getting near 500bhp per ton, I have been on track days with aerial atoms and out accelerated up to
100mph, the same with a very expensive porche GT3 at around 5%of the purchase cost so that makes my little car pretty interesting.
Power figures mean nothing as its all relative to weight.
Modern bike engines without forced induction put any car engine to shame in terms of BHP to capacity, BHP to weight and when you pull them apart
quality of engineering, they are already interesting !
I set mine up with a wideband controller, the rolling road found 30 more BHP, yes a worthwhile addition but not really required IMHO
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jlayton
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 05:25 PM |
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right iv done loads of research and can some let me no if this is right or if I need any thing else to get it to run safely, I no the basics like
fitting headers/turbo/external wastegate/oil feed-return. adjustable cam sprockets etc.
its the electric side im lacking knowledge to get it to run/safely.
my plans are to fit:
2mm headgasket
uprated head bolts
adjustable cam sprockets
fuel pressure reg
bigger fuel pump
plenum
maybe bigger injectors
manual boost controller
and electrical side is a power commander/ignition module enough to run-support this or do I need a power commander hub also to run a map
sensor?????
my goal is to run 6/7 psi for now.
going to run a borg warner s200 series turbo
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 05:42 PM |
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What engine are you running?
Carbs or EFI?
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jlayton
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| posted on 16/2/13 at 06:26 PM |
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sorry gsxr 1000 fuel injected k2
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