millenniumtree
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| posted on 8/11/05 at 06:02 AM |
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doing a head gasket job
My civic is nearing 135,000 miles, and it's a bit drippy here and there. The spark plug wells collect a lot of oil, And the oil pan gasket
drips about 1-2 quarts a month. Obviously the spark plug well seals and oil pan gasket need replacing, but I thought I'd go one further and do
all the gaskets in the engine, including the dreaded head gasket! I had this done at a garage for 650 bucks on my old Mitsubishi Mirage, but my goal
this time is 1/10th that budget, and to do it myself.
It's the first time I've ever cracked open an engine, so It's going to be a huge learning experience.
What types of specialized tools might I need to do this job, or can I make due with alternatives or items already in my toolbox?
Is it worth the extra trouble of fitting new piston rings or "big end" connecting rod bearings while I have the bottom off?
Are there any "free" performance modifications I can make while I've got the engine's kit off?
Any other special advice I might have missed asking for?
Remember, my goal is to do this job at a minimum expense. I found all the gaskets online for $57 U.S. shipped! I could spring another 20 bucks if
need be for an extra bit or tool, but that's my high end budget for the job. (unless I find that I can't get this daily driver back
together without shelling out more)
[Edited on 12/11/05 by millenniumtree]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/11/05 at 08:46 AM |
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If it ain't broke don't fix it
Most likely cause of your oil leaks is pressure build up in the sump and rocker cover, this caused by piston blow-by and choked crankcase breather.
1st try cleaning out all the crank case breathers.
If that dosen't work I don't hold out much hope for new gaskets and seals fixing the problem.
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derf
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| posted on 8/11/05 at 10:10 AM |
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free power boost. When you buy the head gasket, get the copper 3 layer one (copper/other material/copper). You can nix 2 of the layers and raise the
compression at the same time by just installing 1 layer of copper.
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 8/11/05 at 07:41 PM |
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Already bought all the gaskets.
That's a good point about the crankcase breather, but the plug well seals need replacing anyway, and the oil pan drips even when the car is not
running, so that needs replacing as well.
I do already have a PCV valve to install, so I'll do that along with the rest of it. Hopefully that sorts out the dripping.
[edit]
I'll look it up the breather info in the manual.
I am definitely going ahead with this job though, so if anyone knows of any special tools I'll need, just chime in.
I also today scrubbed a good portion of the grit and gunk from inside the engine bay to make things a bit cleaner while I'm working.
[/edit]
[Edited on 8/11/05 by millenniumtree]
[Edited on 9/11/05 by millenniumtree]
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 8/11/05 at 10:03 PM |
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Did a bit of calculation...
The stock head gasket is .6 mm thick. Even if I could find a gasket that was .3 mm thick (half of stock) it would raise my compression from 9.1:1 to
9.3:1. Gain from this would be maybe 5-10 horsepower. (guestimate based on other honda engines with similar compression and same displacement)
Not bad for a different head gasket, but also not really worth the extra expense of a performance gasket, that is, if they even sell them that
thin.
A better option would be to have the head machined. Take .6mm off the bottom for a compression of 9.6:1. Maybe +10-15 hp, but then I have to use
premium gas. boo.
I have to take the manifolds off anyway, how 'bout polishing the intake?
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 9/11/05 at 03:08 PM |
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Sorry for so many posts, but I'm getting excited.
UPS says my gasket set is out for delivery, I may post a pic of it and the engine when it comes.
I scrubbed grit and sprayed out the engine bay yesterday in prep for the work, and LOTS of the black valve cover paint came off.  I'll need
to spray it with some engine paint because it looks pants. Or maybe polishing and putting on a clear enamel would look better? It's an
aluminum cover.
Looks just like this one, and the black paint is about 30% off.
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 12/11/05 at 06:28 AM |
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Got the head off today, to reveal the valves and pistons in all their (filthy, dirty, oily, disgusting) glory.
I'm trying to get the old gasket material off the head and block, and it is a bitch. I'm thinking of using my dremel with a brass wire
wheel. Anyone know if this will scratch the aluminum?
Also, one cylinder's exhaust valves have a white chaulky substance all over it, built up thick and it is very difficult to take off. Any idea
what would cause this? Water in the cylinder maybe? The cylinder is #2 (2nd from left in the pics) The other cylinders are fine, with just a light
layer of carbon.
Ooohh, purty pictures.
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=millenniumtree&folder=honda-engine
[Edited on 12/11/05 by millenniumtree]
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G.Man
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| posted on 12/11/05 at 09:56 AM |
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It will definately scratch the head... brass on soft alloy... ick...
3m do some rotary plastic scrubbing pads like you use on your dishpans that wont remove material... They arent cheap tho...
Make sure you rebuild the head while its off, seat the valves, new guides and seals...
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 11:49 PM |
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I got all the gasket off. I used some scrubby attachments for my dremel, and they don't seem to have messed up the aluminum at all.
Now I'm working on cleaning up the valve cover and clearancing the valves. I may or may not replace the valve stem seals, depending on if I can
locate a valve spring compressor.
It's been pretty fun so far, except for the cracked radiator top (some epoxy plastic weld should fix that) and the new distributor cap I need
now after dropping the distributor on a concrete floor. 
While I've got the dremel out I was thinking of opening up the intake ports coming off the manifold. They're obviously creating a lot of
turbulence, as the intake ports are a completely different shape than the head ports.
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/11/05 at 11:56 PM |
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They're obviously creating a lot of turbulence
They are supposed to, it helps atomise the fuel. Don't mess with stuff if you don't understand it, try finding out how to do the job
properly before you start carving up the ports or you'll make it worse than standard.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 21/11/05 at 04:08 AM |
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Oh, I do know some about turbulence, but didn't think much about it in this case. I guess in that location it certainly would help atomize.
It was going to be too much work to do all that dremeling anyway, so I left it alone and slapped the engine back together.
The car is running again, though there's white smoke out the back. It did this once before, when I messed with the distributor, and again when
I (stupidly) changed the ignition timing, but the smoke went away in both cases. This leads me to believe the timing is off again (going to check
that in a few days)
With all the crap I had to do under the bonnet, I'm frankly not surprised it's smoking a little. I'll throw some radiator sealer
in, adjust the timing and call it good.
The job took a long time, and was very messy, but I had a good time.
Three things I didn't forsee when I started the job:
Radiator cracked when taking off a bolt - fixed with some JB Weld.
Distributor cap destroyed by a 2.5 foot fall to the concrete floor.
Had to take lower timing cover and crankshaft pulley off because when re-tensioning the timing belt, I slipped about 5 teeth. *d'oh!*
Everything else was expected and went smoothly.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 21/11/05 at 09:34 AM |
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You may find the white smoke will clear after a good run ? also are you sure it's smoke and not water vapour (steam). If your atmosphere is damp
that could be the cause , in which case it's nothing to worry about.
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 23/11/05 at 03:23 PM |
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It did recently get very cold, so it could be water vapour. I probably sprayed some water into the exhaust header while cleaning the engine as well.
It should probably go away soon.
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millenniumtree
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| posted on 19/12/05 at 05:46 PM |
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Final update to this job.
The car runs REALLY well now. No smoking or steaming that is abnormal (winter has set in, so everyone steams a bit in the cold)
The engine revvs smoothly and doesn't tick anymore when it's cold. (must have been a valve out of clearance)
The bodged leaky radiator fix was solved by stumbling upon a guy who happened to have a radiator in his back seat! So now I have an all metal
radiator in place of the plastic & metal OEM item.
The job went extremely well and I'm very pleased. I should have an engine that runs for years to come.
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