jwhatley
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| posted on 30/12/12 at 08:58 PM |
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Hayabusa Rectifier
Hello guys,
I have an issue with my Hayabusa MK Indy battery charging system, well its not charging. The engine is a Gen2 with the two plug rectifier connections.
I see under 12v with the engine running, and have checked fuses and continuity from the rectifier wiring to the battery, all is ok.
I have checked the resistances of all the rotor wires to ground and all are open circuit. I have measured the resistance of each of the windings and
they are all about the same at 0.8ohms.
I disconnected the rotor connections to the rectifier and started the car, im getting about 40V AC between phases at idle and approx 70V at about
5000rpm. So i guess that states that my generator is working correctly?
Now if i plug the rotor wires in to the regulator and then back pin the plug im only seing 1.5v AC between the phases, is this because im going
through a diode within the rectifier or is there some sort of issue?
I am getting absolutly no output from the rectifier at idle though, theres a 4 pin plug there, with what i can see are two connections to the battery
and two ground connections, at the car side of the wiring loom i have battery voltage on two and two grounds. but nothing out of the rectifier.
I have done what i think is a diode test between each of the positive connections on the rectifier and each rotor input and they all are the same
value in one direction, and then a higher value but again all the same in the opposite direction.
Is it my rectifier thats given up or am i missing something?
Thanks
John
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lewis
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| posted on 30/12/12 at 11:42 PM |
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Have you tried turning it off & back on again :-)
I am a driving god!..........sort of
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BobM
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| posted on 31/12/12 at 06:37 AM |
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No, don't think you've missed anything. Likeliest point of failure in the system was always going to be the regulator/rectifier anyway,
they are known to fail, especially if they're sited somewhere that gets a bit warm.
My ZX10 reg-rec failed during our first race weekend last season, a friend had a spare one for his R1 which turned out to have the same connectors
and just plugged in. All the bike ones do the same job, you just might have to do a bit of work on the wiring if the connectors are different.
Not very Locost but very BEC 
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t11
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| posted on 31/12/12 at 07:00 AM |
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mounting
Hi Make sure its mounted correctly on something metalic and use heat transfer compound as the one on the car may have overheated...
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jwhatley
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| posted on 31/12/12 at 07:12 AM |
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Thanks for the replys, including yours mr Trott....
The regulator/rectifier is located in the engine bay in a good source of airflow, maybe it's just chosen this us the time to give up.
So at idle there should be output still? It's not one of these things that needs a bit of rpm to start working?
John
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BobM
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| posted on 31/12/12 at 07:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jwhatleySo at idle there should be output still? It's not one of these things that needs a bit of rpm to
start working?
Yes, you should see above 12v at idle but a very tiny increase in rpm should see it getting to 14v
Not very Locost but very BEC
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baz-R
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| posted on 31/12/12 at 04:11 PM |
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sounds like your reg/rectifier unit is shorted
most bike engines with internal alternators use fixed magnet gen systems with 3 phases
its normal to have upto 80v ac between any 2 of the 3 gen coil wires (running) you must have no conection to any ground (engine case)
the 3 gen wires are connected to a full wave 3 phase rectifier (6 diodes) then to a voltage regulator thats all in one box with fins and needs to be
able to transfer heat to the chassis. your output should rise to around 14.4v at fast engine speeds
replace your reg unit most pattern stuff is good thease days and make sure it can transfer its heat into somthing you should also get some heat
transfer paste with it when you get a new one .
running a full size car battery may over stress your system if its flat?
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jwhatley
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| posted on 31/12/12 at 06:37 PM |
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I did assume my rectifier was dead, but im still not 100% sold on it. But i think it has to be.
I have done the diode check as per the inspection 1J-10 in the hayabusa manual, and all the readings come back within tolerance apart from the
following:
B1 to B2 and B3 - Both came back at 1.45V
B2 to B1 and B3 - Both came back at 1.48V
B3 to B1 and B2 - Both came back at 1.45V
Now the manual says that they should be 0.5-1.2V
0.2V out of tolerance on all phases on the rectifier, would that really cause it to have no output at all? Also, this unit has a battery input that
controls a SCR thyristor built in... Could it be possible because this isn't connected to a 12v source when im testing it that im getting no
output? (The generator is connected to the rectifier but the output plug is where im testing voltage it from)
Just before i go ordering the wrong parts, i want to make sure its not something else.... which i cant really see it is.
John
[Edited on 1/1/13 by jwhatley]
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jwhatley
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| posted on 1/1/13 at 10:52 AM |
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So, i somehow found my problem, not the rectifier or the generator but there must have been a dodgy connection or earth in the system, as ive taken
every connection apart, cleaned and re assembled the plugs and now it seems to be working.
The charging system is really only good for topping up charge on a battery, not for charging a battery which is getting low. I need to invest in a
conditioner charger it seems to keep the battery in good health whilst in the garage.
I see now about 12.5v at idle and 13.5V at 5000rpm. Thats with a not fully charged battery, so i guess that with a charged one i will see 14V.
Ive also learnt that the rectifier needs a battery sense voltage for it to produce a voltage with the plug disconnected, so with the engine running
and generator connected it produced no output at the plug to the battery, put a 12v pulse on it and it will produce a voltage there, something to keep
in mind in the future!
Thanks all for your input.
John
[Edited on 1/1/13 by jwhatley]
[Edited on 1/1/13 by jwhatley]
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