alland3851
|
| posted on 15/8/14 at 03:37 PM |
|
|
Sierra Crankshaft pulley
Hi, are the crankshaft pulleys on the pinto 2.0l interchangeable. Engine is from a Mk1 Sierra with the cast pulley and I would like to fit the lighted
one. Also what torque setting for the pulley bolt, there are two specified in the Haynes manual.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 15/8/14 at 03:45 PM |
|
|
all the pinto cranks are the same - so any pinto pulley will fit the crank
but there are several different 'light weight' or lightened pulleys around, often made to a smaller diameter so they run the alternator
and water pump slower (important for race engine that will spend all there time at high revs)
the old pulley you'll likely have is actually one of the lightest already - so I guess I should ask why you want to change it ?
I used a mk1 sierra one as the basis for my fancy one (hard anodised 6082 T6 alloy) but tweaked to fit the longer cossie crank and mount my
triggerwheel - but its not locost by any stretch of the imagination 
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/mcerd1/Dax/Pulley-V3-1.gif
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/mcerd1/Dax/08072008059.jpg
sorry can't remember the torque settings off the top of my head
[Edited on 15/8/2014 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 15/8/2014 by mcerd1]
-
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 15/8/14 at 04:17 PM |
|
|
Pulley bolt torque is not critical as woodruf key provides location, torque to middle of 2 or the lower one with locktight
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
alland3851
|
| posted on 15/8/14 at 04:45 PM |
|
|
Hi mcerd1. The pulley I took off was a heavy cast one. The one I am intending to replace it with is a steel one which came of another Pinto similar
to the one you have in the pics. So I will go with that.
Thanks Snapper for the info on the torque.
Cheers guys
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 18/8/14 at 08:02 AM |
|
|
is it one of these ones you've got ?
Steel 4"' Front Crank Pulley: Ford SOHC Pinto, RS2000, Capri, Cortina
they are only a little bit lighter than the identical looking cast ones that were on the escorts/Cortina's and some early sierra's
etc...
the old cast ones tended to crack and then shatter at high revs (I've got a cracked one that I used as my template)
but its only really a problem for race engines
-
|
|
|
alland3851
|
| posted on 18/8/14 at 08:11 AM |
|
|
Looks the same to me . In that case it doesn't really matter what one I fit.
Thanks again.
|
|
|
mcerd1
|
| posted on 18/8/14 at 08:48 AM |
|
|
all I'd say is don't spend any money on a steel one if your cast on is in good condition 
its a nice extra, but you won't see any real benefit from it unless your racing
if you want to lighten the bottom end then you'll make much bigger gains but using a light weight flywheel
its possible to do this by machining the std. cast one, but if you go too far they can explode at high revs  (I've seen pic of the aftermath -
its like a grenade went off under the bonnet )
again this shouldn't be an issue if your not racing it and stay on the sensible side with the machining, but since its so close to your legs in
an seven replica I didn't fancy taking the chance and got a fancy steel one from burtons that's even lighter (5.5kg) 
-
|
|
|
alland3851
|
| posted on 18/8/14 at 02:10 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the info and the warning! Will stick with cast one and not go down the flywheel route at the moment.
Cheers
|
|
|
