nick-york
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 posted on 23/8/15 at 07:08 PM |
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opinions on this please ?
Hi all ! A few weeks ago my exhaust broke just below the manifold part and i took it to csk engineering who fitted a custom made stainless steel
manifold .Ive uploaded the old broken part and new fitted manifold pictures into my pride and joy photo archive . I would appreciate it if you could
look closely at the pictures and compliment or critisize what you think .cheers - nick
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CosKev3
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 08:06 PM |
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Looks good to me.
Any noticeable improvements in power etc?
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kitcardirect
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 08:09 PM |
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pic here
 
new ss powerflow manifold
http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/
Follow Us On Facebook : http://on.fb.me/1KYgL8N
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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nick-york
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 08:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Looks good to me.
Any noticeable improvements in power etc?
I was thinking that i would notice a reasonable power increase .But there doesn't seem to be
much at all to be honest . Ive had the car on a rolling road last year so i know how many hp it was running so sometime shortly I'm going to
test it again then i ll know for sure . cheers - nick
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nick-york
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 08:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by kitcardirect Thanks for that ! Still not worked out how to put pictures on here out of the archive .
pic here
new ss powerflow manifold
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40inches
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 08:33 PM |
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Go to your archive, click on a photo, copy the forum code and enter the code into your post.
 
Description
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BenB
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 08:48 PM |
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They equal length???
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Dusty
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| posted on 23/8/15 at 09:43 PM |
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Not equal length but how much does that matter on a pinto? Couple of HP? Not enough to fuss over unless you have a highly tuned pinto and looking for
every scrap of power.
Otherwise far to pretty. You are not going to see much change in power unless your old manifold was a dog.
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nick-york
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| posted on 24/8/15 at 08:13 AM |
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Well I was hoping for a lot more well made , badly made comments after a lot of views on this post . I don't know much about manifolds so I
spent a lot of time looking at manifolds before I had this made . Now all the ones I looked at were mandril bent . Now mine doesn't look the
same . To me it looks like it's been cut and shaped and then welded right the way round. Correct me if I'm wrong please .also if this was
the case then surely there would be weld on the inside of the manifold making it not so free flowing. So would it be possible to make the manifold
without welding on the bends ? Would the amount of weld on the inside make hardly any difference? You see when I first saw the new manifold I wasn t
expecting to see weld on the bends .the chap who made it said he would try and make the pipes as near as he could to been equal length. Am I being too
fussy or is this the only way to get the tight bends ?maybe I'm completely wrong and the bends haven't been welded ! If this was your
manifold would you be happy with it ? Yes or no ? That's a lot of questions lol ! Hopefully a lot of answers . Cheers - nick
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chillis
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| posted on 24/8/15 at 12:12 PM |
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Looks overly complicated for the job its doing. You'll not notice any extra power unless the engine spec is fairly lairy, though you might spot
a drop in mid range torque/drivability depending on the 'tuned' lengths.
Though I appreciate your problem, uncracked cast 4-2 manifolds are pretty thin on the ground these days.
Looks reasonably well made but cant really see form that picture.
Never under estimate the ingenuity of an idiot!
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nick-york
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 posted on 24/8/15 at 07:33 PM |
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Few more answers / opinions please ? More the merrier!
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Adamirish
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| posted on 24/8/15 at 10:03 PM |
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In my opinion(I am no expert) I would say, if you wanted to get every last drop of power out of the car then I would find another one, if it does the
job, not likely to fall apart and you are happy enough with it then I wouldn't worry too much. Personally, I would prefer mine to be bent rather
than cut and welded to produce the bends.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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r1_pete
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 06:49 AM |
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Ref the welding,
It does look nicely Tig welded, and providing the welder reverse purged the pipes the welds will be neat on the inside too.
Reverse purging means filling the pipe being welded with shielding gas, Argon in Tig welding, that way no contaminants build up on the back of the
weld, the penetration is better and the weld neater.
You can only bend tube so far then it splits, becomes too thin in places to be useful, or wrinkles on the inside creating more turbulence than a weld
would, mitred welds are common on matched length exhausts, look at race cars.
Overall that looks like a nice manifold, and unless you have ported the head to be an exact match, fitted things like rimflow valves, opened up the
ports, the back of the welds is not an issue to you. I would check the heat dissipation though, that rubber hose connected to the copper pipe, and the
alternator plug / wiring look pretty close, think about some shielding.
I'd be happy with that on my car, but as others have said, on the road the difference in bhp/torque is not going to be that dramatic, low single
figure % at best.
[Edited on 25/8/15 by r1_pete]
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owelly
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 07:28 AM |
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It looks to be very close to the alternator and plug lead. Watch for any heat issues.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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nick-york
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 08:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Ref the welding,
It does look nicely Tig welded, and providing the welder reverse purged the pipes the welds will be neat on the inside too.
Reverse purging means filling the pipe being welded with shielding gas, Argon in Tig welding, that way no contaminants build up on the back of the
weld, the penetration is better and the weld neater.
You can only bend tube so far then it splits, becomes too thin in places to be useful, or wrinkles on the inside creating more turbulence than a weld
would, mitred welds are common on matched length exhausts, look at race cars.
Overall that looks like a nice manifold, and unless you have ported the head to be an exact match, fitted things like rimflow valves, opened up the
ports, the back of the welds is not an issue to you. I would check the heat dissipation though, that rubber hose connected to the copper pipe, and the
alternator plug / wiring look pretty close, think about some shielding.
I'd be happy with that on my car, but as others have said, on the road the difference in bhp/torque is not going to be that dramatic, low single
figure % at best.
[Edited on 25/8/15 by r1_pete]
some very helpful technical advice there .also last weekend I noticed that the rubber hose connected to the
copper pipe had been quite badly melted by the exhaust. Before I'm out in it again I ll have to fix it .so well spotted ! Cheers - nick
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nick-york
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 09:09 PM |
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Thanks for all the advice and information! A good inspection of anything close to the manifold is my next job followed by some heat protection. Cheers
- nick
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perksy
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 09:27 PM |
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No heat shield on the Alternator ? and is there enough clearance between the manifold pipe and the Alternator?
I've got some photos somewhere of a mates Pinto powered Westfield with a Simpsons full system on it, I'll see if i can find them...
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perksy
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 09:43 PM |
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Found it
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mark chandler
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| posted on 25/8/15 at 10:23 PM |
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I spent a week welding up a manifold, replaced 4 cats with 2 x 200 cell and baffled silencers with straight through, expected big gains and it was
barely discernible
In hindsight I should have made the primaries from smaller diameter tube rather than using the mandrel bends I had lying around.
The problem with these little cars is insufficient length to get the optimum size, however I bet if you removed and put back to original you would
feel a power drop.
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nick-york
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| posted on 26/8/15 at 09:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Found it
hi ! Can't see the picture.
Don't know why not . Might be my phone.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 26/8/15 at 01:28 PM |
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Primary lengths (and secondary for a 4-2-1) need to be matched to the cam being used to get good gains. If they have just used a convenient length to
fit on the car, then gains are unlikely to be significant. Then again if you are still running the standard cam the gains are never going to be very
large.
quote:
Originally posted by Dusty
Not equal length but how much does that matter on a pinto?
How do you know it's not equal length? It seems pointless putting the effort into making such a complex design if they aren't.
The cylinder 4 primary appears to have a pretty badly matched join at the point where it bends around the cylinder 3 primary. The sharp angle inside
the join won't be helping exhaust flow.
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