Im well on form to have the build completed for racing by the end of the summer, the information that i need to have a chance of challanging for 32nd or mabey even 31st place is:

What alternator do i go for, japaneese, what model car is it from?

What Starter do i go for, one from jap car, model?

Also what clutch are you runners with good engines running I assume that standard ones arn't up to the job at the top?

If anyone has any of this information (and doesn't mind sharing it) id really appreciate it, especially ideas on where to get them and possible prices?

If anyone is selling a good item please email me!

By some miricle Im keeping to my budget (just about).

Cheers

Dale

dalefaulkner@yahoo.co.uk

[Edited on 1/5/03 by dalefaulkner]

have you checked the 750mc site and regulations - might be some tips as to what's allowed 'standard' or otherwise?...

it was all a bit 'ishy'

just says something about the car being able to recharge itself and start the car, so to a layman like me that suggests, anything as long as the alternator works and so to does the starter, why are regs about as specific as mr Blair?

regs normally say near the beginning (though haven't checked) something along the lines of :

if it doesn't state that you can, assume that you can't, or ask first.

don't know if this is relevant?!

Andrew.

cheers ill have to think it through, and research better.

Clutch - the only type of plate you're allowed to use is a standard road one, you are allowed to use a heavy duty cover tho - dunno why you would want to bother mind you after all even the best (legal) engines make no more power than a good standard 1600. In 4 years I can't remember anyone having clutch problems to be honest. I doubt anyone will ever check what you are using by the way but fancy stuff is an expensive way of gaining bugger all.

Alternator/starter - obviously the type of starter motor you use depends on the bellhousing on the gearbox but apart from that why make life more complicated for yourself than you have to? The standard Ford stuff works fine in a charging the battery/starting the car type way is readily available and cheap. OK you might save a kilo or two using japanese type things but I bet you find that you and the finished car are a bit under the weight limit anyway (assuming you don't weigh 17 stone of course )

My advise is keep it as simple and as standard as you can, especialy at first, and just get it finished and out on the track.

If you look around the top cars you'll notice that even after a few seasons there's virtualy no rocket science or 'trick' parts involved basicaly because the cost far outweighs any performance gains. The bigest gains are to be found by getting your suspension to work properly (ie go up and down - you'd be amazed how many people turn up with cars which when you push down or lift up a corner the suspension sticks where you left it), having the engine built by someone who knows what they are doing and just as importantly improving your driving skills.

Cheers

Dave
Engine Builder/mechanic Car 41

Thanks for that it all makes sense, I havn't weighed my car yet, with a cage and all standard stuff what sort of weight are the race cars coming in at? I thought that 615-my weight was very light, is there an easy way to weigh the car? Id be pissed off to spend ages trying to get the weight down to then have to put some back on cause im a skinny git?

I think Mr Townsend weighs about 13.5 stone at the moment and with him sat in the car but without petrol the car weighs in at about about 610 kg - NOT a good idea to balast the car with petrol imho but not my choice.

One thing you have to watch out for is that the reading from weighing machinery readings tends to vary by 5-10 kg from circuit to circuit so building a car down to the minimum weight might be fine at one circuit but will get you disqualified at the next one.......this ISN'T F1 Honestly 10-20 kg either way isn't going to make the slightest bit of diference anyway - to make sure you're not well below though you do need to weigh you and the car before the first race. Most towns have a council run weighbridge (local tip?) or even better book a test day at a track we go to and as well as learning one of the tracks (makes a HUGE difference believe me!) you can weigh the car on one of the 'official' weighbridges (Pembrey and Lydden don't have one but everywhere else does)

Cheers

Dave

[Edited on 1/5/03 by D Beddows]

I am on my first season of Locost racing. if I've learned one thing, it's that you don't want to be worrying about the car between or just before races. keeping thins as standard as possible means that you'll be able to borrow parts from other racers if the worst happens.
At my first meeting at Donnington I had to borrow a starter motor after mine siezed (thanks Nik) and blag a bolt (thanks Tim and Tim's dad) for the new water pump I had to buy after mide developed a leak in the first heat race.

If I had kitted the car out with trick parts, I would have had 2 options, either bring spares of everything which was non-standard, or gone home.

if and when I ever get into the top 10 finishers I might think about how I can make the car faster, until then I'm more concerned about setting it up to go round corners better and improving my overtaking skills, both of which will yield far better results in the short term I beleive.

build the car light, within reason then you can add ballast in the best place ie low centre of gravity. also bear in mind if you are under weight and need to add weight to the car if possible upgrade useful bits ie bigger brakes - helps with weight and helps with performance.

Andrew.

These cars that race in the 750mc series - are they road legal?

It looks a complete blast, but i probably couldn't afford it - banger racing is more within budget!

Cheers.

alright Mark. the cars dont have to be road legal to race in the series - some are however. The rules do state that the car must be 'capable' of passing an MOT...i.e. working brake and head lights, working handbrake etc. However, when it comes to things like switches etc the scrutineers don't tend to be that strict.

In 'motorsport' terms - Locost can be relatively cheap. On the other hand you can spend a lot of money if you wanted. The problem with any form of racing is they'll always be someone competing in your formula who just 'throws' money at their cars - the problem is that if you want to compete on their level it does tend to raise the cost.

...it is a blast though!

Mark, the 2 are almost mutually exclusive. You can't just drive your car to the race track . . .

Apart from some techincal diferences, it is illegal to have a road car with numbers all over it.

" it is illegal to have a road car with numbers all over it."

What happoens in wrc then and other rallies?

dale, u have u2u

It is legal to drive a car on the road with numbers on it (racing style) as long as their is a cleat stipe through the number decal.

Quote: "You can't just drive your car to the race track . . . "

....i'm pretty sure some of the Stock Hatch boys drive their cars 2 & from the race meetings.