spikemooner
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 posted on 8/5/11 at 09:04 PM |
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Zetec alternator wiring... help!
I've changed from an Xflow to Zetec and don't know how to wire-up the Zetec's Bosch alternator. The alt has one connection for a
very heavy lead (which I guess is the main charge lead, and gets connected to the +'ve at the starter) and 3x other connections simply marked 1,
2, and 3. I've done some homework, and guess that one of these goes to a switched 12v +'ve, one goes to a permanent 12v +'ve, and
the other goes to the ign warning lamp. But which is which? I don't want to mess about with this too much as I’m concerned about blowing
something in the alternator. Can anyone help-out and point me in the right direction? Thanks.
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 8/5/11 at 09:08 PM |
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Hope this helps
[img]
 
Description
[/img]
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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coozer
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| posted on 8/5/11 at 09:08 PM |
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Beware that zetecs alternators do not have regulators. This is controlled by the OEM ECU.
What ecu are you running??
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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spikemooner
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| posted on 8/5/11 at 09:21 PM |
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I'm running it on Webers and a Megajolt. Could this be a problem?
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spikemooner
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| posted on 8/5/11 at 09:28 PM |
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Thanks 'Big-Vee-Twin'. I will compare the chart with 'what I've got'. I appreciate any info which might help.
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coozer
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| posted on 8/5/11 at 09:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by spikemooner
I'm running it on Webers and a Megajolt. Could this be a problem?
Yep, zetec alternators don't' work without the Ford ECU..
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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spikemooner
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| posted on 8/5/11 at 09:39 PM |
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Thanks for your help coozer, I guess that I will have to do some more homework and come-up with an alternative that has a built-in regulator.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/5/11 at 05:58 AM |
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Its not that simple. What age is the zetec ?
Yours sounds like a black top with the three pin plug ? This is Fords smart charge system and is run by the ecu. It does alsorts of clever stuff like
cutting the charge at tick over to reduce load and there for reduce emissions.
If you just conect the batery cable it will self excite and give you full charge of around 13.8v. I did this with a mate's and it has run fine
for over a year.
Re your three pins. One is a voltage referance ie the batery. Another is the charge light. The last is the command wire from the ecu.
Give me a shoute if you want to know which is which and I will look my notes up.
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spikemooner
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| posted on 9/5/11 at 02:48 PM |
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Many thanks big_wasa. Yep... it's a Blacktop and I've got it all set-up with the original alternator, so really really don't want to
go through the pain of modifying all the mounts etc to change the alternator unless it's absolutely necessary. I’ll start by giving it a go with
just the heavy charge lead connected and come back with the result.
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Krismc
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| posted on 9/5/11 at 03:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Beware that zetecs alternators do not have regulators. This is controlled by the OEM ECU.
What ecu are you running??
Yes I found out the hard way on my first alternator, so bought a differant alternator after that then my second and 3rd alternator packed up because i
had a back feed, which i never noticed - now my 4th one works brilliant though- £75 new from local guy.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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spikemooner
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| posted on 10/5/11 at 09:10 AM |
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Absolutely spot-on… With the engine running I’m showing a steady 14.2v at the battery with nothing more than the alternator/battery lead connected.
I’ve dug-up a Mondeo wiring diagram which shows alternator ‘pin 1’ as D+ and going to the warning lamp, so I’ll try connecting that as well. If that
works, then I will leave the rest unconnected and just keep a close eye on the battery for the next few weeks. Many thanks for all comments, help and
advice (It would never have occurred to me to try it with just the battery lead connected). I will eventually swap it for one of those smaller,
lighter, Denso units (with a built-in regulator) but hopefully that can now wait until later in the year.
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subevo
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| posted on 28/6/11 at 07:27 PM |
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ive just converted my st170 to run on an omex 600.im having the same problem with the alternator not outputing.ive read the above posts and im still
not sure.
do you mean just leave the 3pin plug disconnected and the alternator will work.as ive tried this and still no joy.or am i missing something.
what are my options if i cant get it to work.
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subevo
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| posted on 2/7/11 at 04:41 PM |
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found this site.
http://www.petercoopercarrepairs.co.uk/ford_focus_alternator_smart_charging.htm
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ChrisLeary
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| posted on 26/7/11 at 06:43 PM |
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Evening all,
I've recently been having problems with my silvertop 2.0l zetec, the ignition light flashes when the engine isn't under load, ie.
decelerating. I've been tracing some wiring today and there appears to be no direct link between the alternator and battery.
Now my question, should there be a direct connection between the alternator and the battery??? The current wiring from the alternator is as follows,
the thick cable goes to the fuse box, and the smaller cable appears to go back inside the dash.
Any help will be fantastic,
Thanks,
Chris
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