ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 2/1/12 at 02:36 PM |
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Yes, there aren't easy/cheap inlet manifold options, CPC in Australia did make some really good ones for the CA18DET a few years ago,
occasionally one comes up for sale in the UK and usually at very reasonable price.
The aluminium fatigues near the welds though... the standard manifold and inlet plenum are fine for very big power, just not ideal for size.
Tuning of the CA18DET is well proven here in the UK and can be done very effectively without spending a huge amount of money and without needing to
make many alterations to the general system set-up. Nissan 300ZX Z32 MAF sensor, larger (RB26DETT) injectors and a chip from Horsham Developments
(www.h-dev.co.uk) will support 300bhp and various easy-to-fit turbos over here, T25 and T28 styles. A bit more money on a custom map is very
worthwhile too.
The biggest hurdle will be heat management... or fitting a big enough intercooler!
[Edited on 2/1/12 by ChrisB200SX]
Chris B
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RK
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| posted on 4/1/12 at 09:11 PM |
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I am sorry, I must continue: Heat is not a problem for me. I have a double core Honda Civic Racing rad, with a push fan, and a small stock
intercooler, mounted behind the rad (not a great spot but that's where it ended up). As long as the nosecone is on, the airflow is fine and
temps are all normal, even on very hot days. I am sure the nosecone cutout (CSR style) helps everything.
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 4/1/12 at 10:24 PM |
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That is good news 
What sort of power is the engine producing?
Chris B
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RK
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 02:25 AM |
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Although I did not witness it, I was told 180 at the wheels, with a conservative tune. I think that's rather low, but don't need more
really.
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 12:59 PM |
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Not a lot of power then (although I'm sure it's plenty in your kit  ).
Standard turbo and not many modifications then?
The standard engine and turbo can support upto 250bhp.
Just needs less restrictive breathing, efficient intercooler, 16psi boost, and a chipped ECU from www.h-dev.co.uk
http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5029&osCsid=3ce1f2d6e25365973af3859c14027578
Chris B
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RK
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 01:53 PM |
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It has AEM ECU, with AEM CAS, no MAF, standard turbo (15" boost (1 bar), max for the sensor I have), standard TB, 2 1/2" exhaust, with an
MK silencer. No idea why it isn't more but I don't need it as I said.
[Edited on 5/1/12 by RK]
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 03:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DRC INDY 7
Nissan power all the way it's the future
ps i have the sr20det engine and box from a year 2000 s14a
Great engine (mines in a 67 Alfa GT) it'll be a real beast in a seven.
And I have an SR20DET S14a ECU with matched Halo and NATS Key for sale which will get the car started. I swapped it for an Apexi so I could boost up
to just over 300hp without going do the piggyback / chip route.
- Jim
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DRC INDY 7
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 05:31 PM |
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How much for the s14a ecu set up
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
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vtecmike
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 06:49 PM |
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Well ,
weve nearly finished our haynes roadster with CA18DET power
It was the best choice for me , cheap easy 200bhp and easily upgraded when i want more power
Its all running standard ecu , my mate wired it up, apparently ,you only need about 4 wires to get it running.
We were going to use the nissan drivetrain but decided it was just easier to use the ford stuff ie hubs, brakes and rear diff.
Ive taken it out for a test run , its quick!
Heres my photo album
if anyone wants any info about installation just ask
https://picasaweb.google.com/108492714415649762152/HaynesRoadsterNissanTurboPower?authuser=0&feat=directlink
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 5/1/12 at 08:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DRC INDY 7
How much for the s14a ecu set up
£50 plus P&P
Looking on ebay this seems to be the going rate for just the ECU. With my setup you'll also get the matching HALO and NATS key.
Cheers
Jim
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 01:02 AM |
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RK, what about EGT temps?
It's probably the intercooler and partly the exhaust holding the power back, it's the "stock" intercooler that worries me,
wouldn't want you to melt your engine!
Chris B
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 01:10 AM |
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vtecmike, what were the modifications to the standard Haynes Roadster, any to make the engine and gearbox fit?
Why left hand drive? Steering rack issues?
Have you got an oil pressure guage?
Is the gearstick in a good place?
Looks like some really good work from the photos!
Still not sure about replacement bottom pulleys, harmonic damping should be an issue but I've heard there is experience to the contrary. Better
to save weight (~7kg) on the flywheel
Chris B
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RK
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 03:27 AM |
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Because nobody in my vicinity knows anything about putting these engines in our cars, I have no idea about EGT's. I have not hooked my AEM to a
computer to check. Mine never ran properly til I hired somebody (a proper mechanic) 200 kms away, to install the AEM and subsequent rolling road
session. He has built 3 of these cars, all with SR20's (he's into drifting), but I have never felt confident I have been getting the
entire story regarding mine. I was talked into this engine (original choice was a 22RE Toyota).
It has been an engine money pit. Would be nice to get the straight goods from people on it but that's not going to happen as long as I'm
in Canada and you lot are in England.
[Edited on 6/1/12 by RK]
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 08:51 AM |
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Chris
if you have trouble with gearlever position, use a mk2 Silvia gearbox (same code as s13 box actually) but its 50mm shorter (needs longer propshaft
though) but the gearlever is 65mm further forward than the s13 box.
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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vtecmike
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 11:32 AM |
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ChrisB200SX
To answer a coupe of your questions,
The chassis didnt need any mods apart from engine and gearbox mounts.The gearstick sits perfect, thats what we based the engine position on.
The prop is a cut down version from the nissan which is then fitted up to the ford sierra diff.
Ive heard lots of stories about the front aly pullies whether or not its a good idea , i had them on my honda h22A lump with a lightened flywheel , it
just luved to rev!
Ive fitted a lightened flywheel to the nissan too, its the best mod you can do to any engine , responsive , revs quicker , its like adding 20bhp,
first mod i do to any engine now.
thanks mike
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 01:50 PM |
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The guys on SXOC are really helpful and my SR20DET transplant went much smoother thanks to their help. Another help was Jez at Horsham Developments
who mapped mine and solved a couple of wiring mysteries.
As for the alloy pulley only possible downside is cooling as the waterpump turns slower as they are underdrive items normally. I have a chuffing
great intercooler in front of an old 1960's rad and it is marginal at cooling hence getting a new alloy one built for me by GR Motorsport
(should be ready in a couple of weeks).
Link to my Alfa Scuderia "non originale" build
[Edited on 6/1/12 by jimgiblett]
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 05:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
Chris
if you have trouble with gearlever position, use a mk2 Silvia gearbox (same code as s13 box actually) but its 50mm shorter (needs longer propshaft
though) but the gearlever is 65mm further forward than the s13 box.
I'm not giving up my OS-Giken gearbox, especially as I have 350bhp 
Chris B
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 05:13 PM |
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Gikens overkill in a plastic fag packet even with 350brake, but essential when dragging round a lard arse 1300kg Datsun around it
with 300bhp and 10" wide hillclimb slicks i havent broken s12/13 or 14 boxes with power although have bent and snapped a couple of selector
forks, but thats just slamming the change through too quick with a paddle clutch (read: stamping on clutch pedal lol).
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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tul214
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| posted on 6/1/12 at 08:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jimgiblett
Link to my Alfa Scuderia "non originale" build
Jim, just read your Alfa build...that is a beautiful car
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 7/1/12 at 12:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
Gikens overkill in a plastic fag packet even with 350brake, but essential when dragging round a lard arse 1300kg Datsun around it
with 300bhp and 10" wide hillclimb slicks i havent broken s12/13 or 14 boxes with power although have bent and snapped a couple of selector
forks, but thats just slamming the change through too quick with a paddle clutch (read: stamping on clutch pedal lol).
1300kg with 2 passengers!
Maybe, but the ratios are better than stock
Do lower radius wheels reduce or increase the stress on the box, guess it reduces it as does the lower weight?
I think I'd like to put the engine and box in a Fury or something with a windscreen and roof of some description, although the Stylus RT looks
lovely!
Chris B
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 7/1/12 at 11:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tul214
quote:
Originally posted by jimgiblett
Link to my Alfa Scuderia "non originale" build
Jim, just read your Alfa build...that is a beautiful car
Thanks mate. Has created a few divided opinions but hey each to their own.
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 8/1/12 at 10:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisB200SX
quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
Gikens overkill in a plastic fag packet even with 350brake, but essential when dragging round a lard arse 1300kg Datsun around it
with 300bhp and 10" wide hillclimb slicks i havent broken s12/13 or 14 boxes with power although have bent and snapped a couple of selector
forks, but thats just slamming the change through too quick with a paddle clutch (read: stamping on clutch pedal lol).
1300kg with 2 passengers!
Maybe, but the ratios are better than stock
Do lower radius wheels reduce or increase the stress on the box, guess it reduces it as does the lower weight?
I think I'd like to put the engine and box in a Fury or something with a windscreen and roof of some description, although the Stylus RT looks
lovely!
to generalise, its torque (load) that kills the boxes. The lower weight generally reduces traction which reduces the load. Wheelspin acts like a
slipper clutch in effect.
decent oil such as Redline 75w Heavy duty shockproof helps longevity too
Both would be great kits i reckon, like them both, but be worth checking the various bonnet heights to see which one will get all the gubbins in
without unsightly holes or lumps added
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 8/1/12 at 10:28 PM |
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my mates fully road legal scimitar sabre Mk2 Turbo with a fully forged CA18DET on emerald ecu, big trubo, lsd, full cage, Elise seats, heater,
hardtop, leccy windows is for sale. Drives like a pussy cat but has 368hp on tap when you stand on the loud pedal 
galv chassis, GRP body so no rust either. I reckon £5k-6k would get it
scroll down on link about 5 cars
http://www.sporting-reliants.com/ModifiedMotors.htm
http://www.sporting-reliants.com/images/ModifiedMotors/StewB_5.jpg
[Edited on 9/1/12 by CNHSS1]
[Edited on 9/1/12 by CNHSS1]
[Edited on 9/1/12 by CNHSS1]
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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ChrisB200SX
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| posted on 9/1/12 at 01:33 PM |
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Nice, looks like a bargain and the engine should take more power. Ti Prop?! Surprising how much room there is and how far back the engine sits!
Shame I don't really like the look of them 
The Fury has bonnet options, not sure I like them though...
Chris B
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StrikerChris
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| posted on 9/1/12 at 03:23 PM |
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Just sticking my awe in here.what engines in a pulsar gtir.looks similar to my sr20det but is running a dizzy cap?my mate just bought it and took it
to the rollers to check its not running lean as its set to 16psi.made 340whp,can't wait for it to spit its box out so I can step in and get some
go faster bits!
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