jwhatley
|
| posted on 20/5/14 at 09:01 PM |
|
|
I'd say so, get some standard springs back in it and see how it is.
You may need to change the pedal fulcrum though as the clutch will be lighter. Making the fulcrum smaller will increase the force needed to depress
the clutch but will make a longer bite point.
|
|
|
|
|
T0MMY
|
| posted on 20/5/14 at 09:06 PM |
|
|
Well first things first, I'll try taking the weights off as that won't cost me anything (I don't have the original springs to try).
Of course I'm assuming it even has weights on it...still waiting on the new gasket and oil seal so I haven't had the cover off yet.
|
|
|
jwhatley
|
| posted on 20/5/14 at 09:11 PM |
|
|
Weights do not affect you pulling away. There attached to the centre of the clutch that is attached to the gearbox. So they only start when the basket
reaches a certain speed.
Check the lock up where it covers the springs isn't shimmed. Some kits come with shims to increase the spring pressure so you can fine tune the
bite.
|
|
|
T0MMY
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 03:06 PM |
|
|
Well after finally getting the time to work on the car...it turns out that it does in fact not have a lock up clutch after all!
Just a normal barnett clutch by the looks of it, red anodised jobbie with 6 springs. It all looks to be in very good condition with no wear so I
think the only thing to do is try lighter springs. That said, I only assume they're very strong ones as that's what the previous owner
mentioned, but then he also thought it had a lock up clutch so who knows.
Here's an idea to test if lighter springs are the answer...could I remove some of the ones that are in there? If I took out 3 it would still be
balanced but then I'd have halved the pressure and I doubt lighter springs are THAT much lighter so it would probably slip like crazy.
Any particular reason not to do this? It would be a temporary solution just to find out if lighter springs would help before I order some.
EDIT: Just stripped it down further and the splines on the clutch boss (inner hub thing) are quite worn. Not really sure how much is too much but
this could definitely cause the problem I'm having! I could have a go at cleaning it up but it might just need to be replaced.
[Edited on 23/5/14 by T0MMY]
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 06:09 PM |
|
|
Its worth a try and might prove a pointy.
I can't help wondering if its a new clutch thats been put in and the steel plates roughed up?
Or, poor pedal action.
Or just how bad are the grooves in the basket?
Or you need more practice 
www.plusnine.co.uk
|
|
|
T0MMY
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 06:18 PM |
|
|
Well now I've seen the splines on the clutch boss I've gone off the idea of it being overly strong springs. I'm pretty sure
it's the wear as it fits better with the symptoms.
Hard to say how bad it is as I don't have much to compare it to. There are significant grooves though so I might try and file/emery them
smooth.
I wish it was just practice but given the last two owners have both got threads on here about the issue it's not just me. I'm pretty used
to bike clutches anyway...I have two track bikes and have been riding for 17 years!
[Edited on 23/5/14 by T0MMY]
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 06:41 PM |
|
|
How about a picture then
If your description of grooves, rather than light wear/burnishing is correct ten I suspect your right and you've found your problem
www.plusnine.co.uk
|
|
|
T0MMY
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 07:13 PM |
|
|
Here's some I prepared earlier
You can also see wear from the springs on the shaft thingys. They might make it a little jerky too I guess, but easy enough to sand down.
I'd sy it was quite bad. Interesting how the basket has worn less than the boss; I was wondering if it had been replaced at some point?
[Edited on 23/5/14 by T0MMY]
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 08:14 PM |
|
|
Technical term for that is... buggered!
I don't think rubbing it down will help and you'll need a new one. Start searching e-bay.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 08:18 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Technical term for that is... buggered!
I don't think rubbing it down will help and you'll need a new one. Start searching e-bay.
+1 Domnt waste your time fettling
www.plusnine.co.uk
|
|
|
rick1962uk
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 08:29 PM |
|
|
one thing we do on race engines is rub the groves down if you cant get a new one but then on the old or new on the valley drill a small whole abour 3
mm in the middle then the next one drill 2 one half way from the edge and the middle whole then next vally drill 1 in the middle next 2 the same do
this all the way around helps oil flow makes for a smooth clutch action and helps the hub last longer
|
|
|
T0MMY
|
| posted on 23/5/14 at 11:24 PM |
|
|
Annoying that it's beyond help...not so much for the cash as they're not too expensive but I have the week off work and wanted to drive
the bloody thing a bit, not sit and wait for parts
I might file it down anyway while I wait for a replacement boss as I don't see the harm. I guess the issue is the clutch will be even more
rattly and it'll grind new grooves very rapidly?
Anyone have a spare clutch boss they're willing to sell me?
|
|
|
T0MMY
|
| posted on 17/6/14 at 04:44 PM |
|
|
Thought I'd update this in case anyone searching on here for similar symptoms finds it.
I replaced the clutch boss today and it has completely tranformed the car...I'm astounded at the difference it's made as the old one
didn't look horrendous really. The clutch action is Mondeo-esque in it's bland competency The car is now a joy where before I was
always terrified of having to stop anywhere in traffic!
Another top tip too if you ever need one...in the UK Yamaha wanted over £400 for the clutch boss but from the US they're around £60-80, brand
new, OEM part. I don't quite understand that one but anyway, with shipping and taxes it was about £100...just had to wait a while.
|
|
|
