GreigM
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 12:43 PM |
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Flatshifter setup help
Can anyone help me with setup of a flatshifter pro in a blade engined Westie?
Its installed and fundamentally works, but want to fine tune it to be as "smooth" as possible (which I don't feel it is) and
I'm concerned that if its not setup correctly I'm damaging the gearbox.
Sometimes I feel the change is jerky, in both directions...others fairly smooth - seems to vary depending on speed/revs - I'm definitely getting
some "shove" forward when downshifting.
So I'm looking for some general feedback - what should it feel like - should I be looking to eliminate jerkiness, or is some acceptable?
I'm also a little timid at testing this at high revs - is there potential here for damaging the engine/gearbox? One time when testing I seemed
to get no gears (which was a surprise as I though I was going to 4th) and got a massive bang from the exhaust - is this a sign of it not being
installed correctly?
What are the typical characteristics for the adjuster screw being to far in/out? One problem is the manual simply says "it shouldn't need
adjustment", but it obviously does and the manual is pretty much zero help from that point onwards.
The other thing is that the manual says with the ignition on but engine not running, the unit should beep when activated - but it doesn't beep
at all - does this mean I have it setup too hard/soft, or is the unit defective?
Any help at all would be much appreciated - I just really don't want to go around changing gears without using the clutch and damaging anything
and this ends up being a very expensive mistake....
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minitici
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 01:02 PM |
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The clue is in the name 'flatshifter'
They are really designed for changing when going hell-for-leather not for driving 'timidly'.
You would be better to employ the clutch in 'normal' driving mode and use the flatshift feature for clutchless changes on the track.
The changes will seem jerky if you are just cruising around.
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ko_racer
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 01:15 PM |
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I have to agree, it will be a little clunky while cruising round, but will work nicely while "on it".
You have to be careful with thepressure swtich/rod. If you screw the adjuster out too far the 2 little levers flop down inside and then you
don't get any beeps.
If you've done this you need to take it apart. Mark the 2 parts so you get it back in the same place, undo the screws and lift off the cover.
You should see 2 little flaps, one either side. You need to get a paperclip or small allen key, hold these up, screw the adjuster all the way in on
the cover plate and carfully put back together. Probelm is you may have bent the levers which makes things even harder.
The other option is to speak to flatshifter, they are very helpful and will usually check it and reset it for you.
Regards
Keith
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GreigM
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 01:27 PM |
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thanks guys - I've never had a beep - even with the "factory" settings, so I'll maybe have a look inside the rod.
I do appreciate that its meant for being used "flat out", I'm just a bit timid about trying it like that until I'm fairly
confident my settings are somewhere close to correct - when I do test it flat out are there any hints/tips about how to adjust it to be optimal?
Am I correct in thinking that the "shove on" I experience when downshifting is because the rev blipper is set too high, and nothing to do
with the shift rod itself?
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ko_racer
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 02:15 PM |
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If it is cutting and blipping when you are changing gear it won't be the swithc, the beep isn't that loud. Have you tried the manual
switch for testing.
If you are getting the push on on down change the blip is too high. It is very sensitive so alny adjust the hex minute amounts.
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GreigM
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 02:28 PM |
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definitely getting the blip and cut - as if I have the Mrs stand and watch the control unit she sees the red/green LEDs light and I can hear the
actuator work for the cut - the test switch also works - stalls the engine on cut, or revs/blips......so sounds like just the "beep"
itself doesn't work - no big loss, just makes it slightly more difficult to set up (as I have to endure the wife's "face" when
asking her to replace the beep  )
Sounds like I may not be far away then - I'll try adjusting the blip and give it a try...
Are there any "simple" rules for the setting of the rod - i.e. if it does x then you have it too soft, if it does y then its too hard, but
if it does z its just right?
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dean100yz
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 05:39 PM |
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got one fitted on mine running a 'blade lump. First one turned out faulty and didnt upshift properly. I Ended up knocking on my 'box
because of it.
When you test it via the switch it shouldnt stall the engine on the upshift.
Also as said earlier these are meant for full throttle upshifts. Mines not exactly smooth round town. OK I guess on downshifts.
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ginger ninja
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 07:04 AM |
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I've got a flatshifter pro - the nut on the gear linkage adjusts sensitivity.
The hex nut on the black downshift control box piped up to the engine adjusts downshift throttle blip. This is what is causing the lurch - I know
because ive adjusted this recently myself.
The adjustment nut is where the pipe from the throttle actuator joins the end of the black box, you could be forgiven for thinking it holds the pipe
nipple on, but it is actually the adjuster.
Antclockwise reduces, clockwise increases - no more than about 1/8 turn at a time (also sensitive). Lurching on downshift is too much throttle
blip.
have fun....
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GreigM
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 10:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dean100yz
got one fitted on mine running a 'blade lump. First one turned out faulty and didnt upshift properly. I Ended up knocking on my 'box
because of it.
When you test it via the switch it shouldnt stall the engine on the upshift.
Very interesting, and worrying - as mine definitely does stall the engine on the upshift via test switch....does this mean its faulty?
I'm starting to get a bit concerned now that the unit is not working correctly....I'll call flatshifter as soon as I can. Thanks guys.
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Jason Fletcher
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 12:32 AM |
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If you get some shove when you change down then you have too much "blip" so you need to turn the M6 nut on the output pipe anti clockwise
about 1/8 of a turn. basicly what you are doing is moving the nylon of a nyloc nut off a hole to bleed some air out bur bear in mind it's a
normal M6 thread so a little movement makes a whole lot of difference.
Mine also stalled the engine (sometimes)when the upshift was tested. I guess it's going to because of how it works.
I had more trouble with the Flatshifter set-up than any other part of my car. The problem is that it ain't a closed loop system so things will
be different at 5k rpm to what they will be at 12k rpm. I would decide at what rev range you want to use it at and do all your testing and setting up
at that. Then when you think you have it right the next day it's changed!
best of luck!
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GreigM
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| posted on 15/8/09 at 06:51 PM |
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ok, have been adjusting the settings a bit and think I have improved things - altered the blip, so no longer get the "shove", so really
just the setting of the rod which concerns me - have no real way to determine if its correct......if it is very wrong am I likely to damage things
(this is my main concern - if a little out of adjustment does no harm except make things jerky I'll be happy).
One last (hopefully) question - when doing an upshift when pushing hard, I occasionally get a loud pop from the exhaust - is this a sign of things not
being correct? I assume its unburnt fuel because I have my foot flat on the throttle, but is it doing any harm, or is it a sign of smomething not
setup correctly?
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Jason Fletcher
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| posted on 17/8/09 at 10:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by GreigM
ok, have been adjusting the settings a bit and think I have improved things - altered the blip, so no longer get the "shove", so really
just the setting of the rod which concerns me - have no real way to determine if its correct......if it is very wrong am I likely to damage things
(this is my main concern - if a little out of adjustment does no harm except make things jerky I'll be happy).
One last (hopefully) question - when doing an upshift when pushing hard, I occasionally get a loud pop from the exhaust - is this a sign of things not
being correct? I assume its unburnt fuel because I have my foot flat on the throttle, but is it doing any harm, or is it a sign of smomething not
setup correctly?
Gregg, the bang is fine and normal if you cut the coils. If you cut the injectors then you will loose the bang but the change won't be as quick
(by 20 miliseconds)
can't help an the shift rod as I never used one.
jason
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