MikeR
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 08:17 PM |
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Shot blasting at home the locost way.
Folks,
I'm ready to paint my chassis & need to clean it up first. The steel is 9 years old so has a little rust in places and wd40 / oil / blood /
tears / what ever in others.....
Now i realise lots of people say "use the tool" (aka angle gringer and wire brush) to clean the chassis but after having a quick go and a)
getting numb fingers from the vibrations and b) not getting into any corners i'm looking for alternatives.
In the garage i've got 1.5hp 25l and 2hp 25l compressors. If I link them together i think i've probably got enough to drive a sand / grit
blaster. Add to this 4 tarps lining the garage walls / floor and I think the media is contained ......
Do you think its practical to shot blast the chassis my self?
Apart from buy the 15 quid shot blast tool, make a bucket and pull the trigger ..... what else do i need to know?
How long do you think it will take (aka how long will I have two compressors running annoying the neighbours on a Saturday?)
What media should I use / What is the difference in the medias?
What protection should I use?
What sort of face mask?
Once blasted whats the best thing to do next? degrease (or do i do that first?)
What do I paint the bare chassis in? Bear in mind i've been doing this 9 years. I want this car to last another 9 so i've a chance to
complete it.
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andrew-theasby
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 08:32 PM |
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Ill be in exactly the same position as you in a couple of weeks, (cant say how it will last obviously) but i intend to get the easy bits off with
angry grinder and wire wheel (mines been powder coated once) then shot blast the akward bits in a similar way to you (be careful not to breath in sand
dust, its really nasty) then quick degrease and paint with zinc primer straight away. Dont touch the bare metal or your finger prints will rust
through soon. After that it will be epoxy black, and on with the build, unless someone suggests you a better way. I prefer paint to powder coating,
but each has there benefits.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 08:42 PM |
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You will get bored, dirty, tired and frustrated by the time you have finished.
Quick shot blasting requires a large volumn of air and big nozzles, what you suggest is great for brackets, hubs etc but not so good for a chassis.
On the flip side, £100 quoted to blast a chassis, maybe its not such a bad idea.
Regards Mark
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owelly
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 08:52 PM |
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I have a shot blast gun for the odd trinket, but the bigger stuff goes up the road to a bloke with a big shed, a big compressor, a big blasty thing
and a big rubber suit....
He charged me £5 each to do some alloys. I couldnt be arsed to clean up the mess for the sake of a fiver/wheel!!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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nick205
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 08:53 PM |
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For the cost of having it done professionaly it can't be worth the time/effort/cost/ball-ache of doing yourself.
Most powder coaters will take on cash jobs, especialy if they're more interesting than the usual hand rails they have to do.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 08:58 PM |
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I'm with everyone else, it's not worth the hassle . Just one question , I know it will be an event but shouldn't this post be in the
chassis section? Sorry couldn't resist it.
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BenB
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 09:18 PM |
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Apparantly if you're going to do itself you need to be careful about not using sand otherwise you can get silicosis of the lungs.....
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austin man
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 09:30 PM |
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very messy process, the grit may be £15.00 byt doesnt go a long way unless you find a way of collecting it for re using. I bought a shot blast kit
from Sealey, the 2hp compressor not up to continuos use okay for localised rust.
Cant you have it dippr or use some proprietary rust neutralizer ?
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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MikeR
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 09:35 PM |
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aware that sand is VERY bad - hence asking about media - what is the difference between ali / glass / slag and what mask should i wear.
Didn't realise i'd posted it in clubs / events ..... ooops, well it will be an event 
Issue with getting it done somewhere else is getting the chassis to the 'somewhere else'. I don't have the option of a trailer.
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mads
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 09:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
Issue with getting it done somewhere else is getting the chassis to the 'somewhere else'. I don't have the option of a trailer.
If you can find somewhere that will do it at a reasonable price as well as a trailer, you can borrow my trailer and we can both benefit. So far I have
been quoted £400+ VAT for shotblast and powdercoating for the trailer.
We gain knowledge faster than we do wisdom!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
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owelly
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| posted on 9/9/09 at 10:03 PM |
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I recently got a car trailer galv dipped for £75 at Leeds Galvanising. It was new steel so didn't need blasting but it was nice and shiney!!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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irvined
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 07:55 AM |
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Hi Mike,
Glad do hear your making good progress - I used a grinder and wire brush on mine, it doesn't take as long as you'd expect in all honesty,
my chassis didn't have much surface rust on it though.
I found a flap wheel in a drill very handy for going along the rails, as well as a cup wheel in the grinder. I used a combination of power file, and
very small wire brushes (both manual and dremel) it only took a few hours to do the whole thing.
I then used marine clean and when that ran out some acetone to clean the chassis before painting.
If your going to get it powder coated, then you might be surprised how little it will cost to get it shot blasted before hand.
If i was going to paint it myself again i'd probably go for epoxy based paint, or stick with POR15 again, however I'd paint it by hand as
it just wasn't worth the effort and mess of spray painting.
The POR15 has been quite good, it has to be free of grease and contaminants before painting on but does cover pretty much anything else, it is nasty
stuff to apply though.
My car is a good few years old now, and predominantly rust free with the exceptions of where the paint has come off due to abusive use of big hammers
or scraped with stones.
I guess the short version is get the grinder out and stop looking for excuses to get finished
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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chrsgrain
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| posted on 10/9/09 at 08:11 AM |
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A syphon blaster - which is what the £15 one must be, will take you DAYS to do a chassis. The only way to do it is with a pressurised blasting pot.
Machine mart sell them for just over £100, by which time, and with the small compressor you have, you might as well get someone else to do it TBH.
If you are determined to do it yourself, use Aluminium oxide grit, large grit size as you can get (then it will last longer before turning to dust,
and the finish will be fine), get a decent tight fitting dust mask (3M make some good ones) and make sure the ventilation is good.
Really though, doing it yourself with the wrong kit would be a nightmare.
CHris
[Edited on 10/9/09 by chrsgrain]
Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...
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