skidmark
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| posted on 21/2/11 at 03:10 PM |
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EEC-V wiring questions
Hello all,
A bit new to posting questions on here although I've been lurking for some time.... hope somebody can give me a bit of advice on this.
I'm buying a new, crate blacktop zetec engine for my Indy and have decided to try to get it up and running (at least initially during the run-in
period) on the Ford EEC-V ECU and custom plenum / existing throttle body.
I've been and got myself an ECU from an 1997 2.0L manual silvertop zetec mondeo (OWLS) along with all the engine loom, sensors and actuators so
in theory, I should be able to transfer this all across and get it going.
However, there are a few things I'm unsure of:
1. I won't be using EGR (which the mondeo had). Can the differential pressure sensor and EGR actuator be left disconnected or will it go into
limp home mode unless I connect them or provide some sort of signal?
2. There are a few wires which remain a mystery at present i.e. Pin 8 (Yellow/Green), Pin 79 (White/Red) and Pin 86 (Black/Blue). Any ideas what
these are for?
3. I couldn't find an OBD connector - should a car of this age have one? If so, where is it located and more importantly which pins does it
connect to on the ECU?
4. Are there any other sensors or actuators (apart from the obvious ones) that MUST be connected to get it to work i.e. Aircon switches, clutch
switch, gearbox sensor etc. etc.
Any hints and tips on the above greatly received!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/2/11 at 05:07 PM |
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the owls ecu is not fully OBD2 compliant but has many of the features. It does not have a "mil" light.
1) I ditched all three of these. It does give an error code for each and stores them in the ecu but it does not seem to afect performance or
emisions. One I did flew through iva.
2) 8 yellow/green PATS
53 white/green PATS Is the other Pat pin.
79 +86 I never did trace as I didnt have the full car. It runs fine with out. Some looms have extra wires for cruise controle ect. So if you find
out please let me know.
3) Yes its got an OBD2 port and its behind a flap under the steering column.
pins 13 white/blue 15 Blue 16 Grey There is an orange wire that is live and two earths . Some ports have an extra wire for programing.
4) Air con and power steering can both be ditched ive also ditched the clutch switch. It also runs fine with out the speed sensor but I will be adding
this back as there as ive found info to say that it uses this signal to cut fuel on over run. There are also load sensing switches for the heated back
window. All they do is up the rpm to stop you stalling at the lights when the engine is under load.
Any more 
[Edited on 21/2/11 by big_wasa]
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skidmark
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| posted on 22/2/11 at 10:50 AM |
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Excellent info. Thanks very much.
If I find out what those mystery wires are I'll let you know (they went into the cabin fuse box I think but I didn't have time to trace
them further - the scrappy was closing!).
I gather you're using the HEGO sensor from the mondeo in your exhaust in order for it to run closed loop fuelling (and pass emissions test)? I
was planning to do this but wonderded how sensitive it will be to position in the exhaust i.e. the normal place after the 4 into 1 on a 7-type vehicle
is a bit further away than the Mondeo sensor (but not much). As it is a HEGO (i.e. heated), I would have thought it's be OK - just wanted to
check though.
Also, have you rolling roaded the car to make sure it runs the correct ignition / fuelling and produces the correct amount of power (i.e. not in limp
home mode)? If so, what sort of power did you get with your setup. I'm not after the ultimate BHP figure at 7000rpm, just want a quick,
driveable car with a safe engine calibration to protect my shiny new engine!
By the way, any idea if the MAF sensors and throttle bodies etc. are interchangeable (electrically) between the silver and black top engines? Just
fancy the nice new plastic ones insteads of the oxidised alumimiun ones!
Probably about if to now but I'm sure there'll be plenty more questions as I try to connect things up!
Thanks
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big_wasa
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| posted on 22/2/11 at 06:23 PM |
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I must type up all my notes.
there are four pins for the Pats immobilizer and three come from the ecu on the owls.
8 yellow/green PATS
19 gray/orange PATS
53 white/green PATS
Pin 8 you asked about is a live from the ecu that powers the the tranceiver. It also works if you power it direct from the battery with a fused
permant live. the other two are RX, TX and the fourth pin on the unit is simply an earth.
Pin 86 you asked about ive got scribled on a scrap of paper as AC refrigerant presure switch 2
Pin 79 You asked about ive got on the same paper as dash controle module. Ive got a feeling this was for the trip computor and wasnt fitted to all
cars.
Yes you must use the Hego as it uses this to run closed loop after warm up. Ive mounted it just after the collector. again seems ok.
Black top Maf sensors have the inlet air temp sensor built into the plastic housing where the alloy ones have a seperate air temp sensor mounted under
the inlet pipe. I dont know if the value of the maff differs but I would just use the one from the car.
As ive said there not full Obd2 and dont spit there dummy like the newer stuff. Its not been on the dyno mut my arse dyno says it pulls well. With the
Obd2 port I can conect my scanner upto it and see all the live data from the sensors and it looks to be doing its thing. Emisions where checked at my
mates iva and where perfect. I forget the values as I lost the print out on the way home.
Ive had mine upto 70 and it pulls HARD much better than carbs. The one I did for my mate pulled all the way to around 120 and felt plenty for the
road. His had a very strangled exhaust so we guessed some where close to the standard 136bhp It didnt like ram air affect from a jumbo air filter sat
in a wing duct, gave a fbit of a flat spot.
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skidmark
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| posted on 23/2/11 at 09:27 AM |
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Great stuff, thanks for that.
Sounds encouraging.....
Pick my new engine and exhaust up tomorrow (hopefully along with an intake plenum) so will be a busy weekend trying to get everything connected up!
Cheers
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