Being a LARGE Sarf Efriken (110 kg's) I have some doubts about fitting myself, a transmission tunnel and a passenger seat into a book chassis.

Seems senseless to spend the next few years building my dream toy and then not enjoying the drive cause it's too tight.

I also have drawings cribbed from a birkin.

Wondering about possibly a McSorely 442 or would this also be overly tight?

Thanks in advance.

Hi

I would normally suggest you go to a show, but if you are in SA that may not be possible.

Draw the seat area and foot well on the floor and surround it with cardboard boxes or a wooden frame, then sit in it.

You will soon see if you fit in it.

( I made my book chassis 4" wider but kept the length and height the same. )


Cheers
Paul G

How about the Haynes Roadster it's a bit bigger than the Locost and could be the answer.
http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/BookFeature_BYOSportsCarView?new=Y&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=1

[Edited on 18/3/09 by Shadowcaster]

Look at the Luego Viento. I think its much bigger/wider. Although it's not a book chassis.

Some of the other guys on here should be able to give dimensions or look here.

Claims to accomodate people of 6ft 7in (200cm) and 20 stone (130kgs).

Haynes are the same size as the MK etc
I get my largeness into the MK OK

What about an MNR? Check Agriv8 out, he's 9'7" and fits in along with a 4.2 V8 up front.

Anythings possible if you try hard

Steve

Thanks for all the replies, now you've really got me thinking.

I 'spose it's possible to mod the haynes to go with a live axle, I'm not keen on IRS.

I'm at the very very early stages of planning the project so nothing is cast in stone yet.
I plan to scratch build, no pre-built chassis for me if I can avoid it. Thinking 4 cylinder motor, most likely 1.6 golf. (Know them well and the bits for em are cheap) Very unsure of axle and gearbox.
Apparently getting a home build on the road here is a nightmare beyond belief and all but impossible without a donor vehicle, so i'm thinking cortina 1.6 as a donor. I can always do an engine change after.

hi, ime 6ft 6" and built a mcsorley 442 chassis, i fit in fine, although getting grp bodywork can be a problem

A couple of tricks that could help you fit in a standard chassis;

Use seat pads or a bag seat instead of a conventional seat, and dish the front of the driver footwell/scuttle to mount the pedal box (recommend floor mounted) as far forward as possible.

Haynes Roadster +2"Wider
Mc Sorley +4"L +4"W +2"H

I have:
Luego Viento +12" Longer +6" wider +4 taller.
Will take straight 6, V8, V10, or even a V12.
a 4 pot engine looks lost in the engine bay

Huge engine bay. Look at my Archive.
I'm 5ft 10" 172cm and 20 stone (lots of Kgs).

Viento = Loadsa room for Big People and Big Engines.
Only downside is its not the cheap option. However, you can get a full set of bodywork that actually fits.

quote:

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Originally posted by coozer
What about an MNR? Check Agriv8 out, he's 9'7" and fits in along with a 4.2 V8 up front.

Anythings possible if you try hard

Steve

---

As wilkingj has mentioned above the Haynes is 2" wider than standard (ie. 2" bigger than MK, etc. etc.).

Looking at the Haynes forum there's a guy who's made his *much* bigger:
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=119&highlight=wide+chassis


I really can't see what you'd have against IRS over Live Axle. But if you must, then I'm sure you can use the Live Axle plans from the original book combined with the Haynes Roadster manual.

In fact, if your Cortina is the same as ours then it's a +4" anyway.

So make a Haynes Roadster +2" bigger than the Haynes book. Use a Cortina axle with Locost Live Axle design... job done!

EDIT: Although you'll need to shorten the front Roadster wishbones but 1" each!

HTH,
James

[Edited on 18/3/09 by James]

[Edited on 18/3/09 by James]

Thinking further, if you *must* go Live Axle and you're building the chassis yourself....

You're better off with building a Locost and just making it 4" wider and using a Cortina rear axle. Cortina front uprights etc. etc.

HTH,
Jae

James, from what I've heard the IRS is a sod to set up properly and doesn't really make a huge difference to how the car handles.
The live axle is also very much more in the spirit of a seven.
Thanks again to all who've replied n given me the benefit of their experience.

ps. can anybody msg me with instructions on how to load an avatar?

[Edited on 18/3/09 by Land Locked]

I could not be happier with my RB

Looks like a +4 will do quite well. I may have found a builder near to home who's doing a +4 who may be inclined to let me try his completed chassis for size.

Now after reading a lot more of this forum I'm wondering if IRS is really such a bad idea. A cortina donor may be slightly easier n cheaper than a sierra, so input on these ideas would be most welcome.

I have also just placed an on-line order for the haynes book.

The point is, you don't need to design your own IRS, it's all there in the Roadster book.

The easiest way to do it IMO is to do a Roadster at +2" it'll probably give you the room you need and IRS with a relatively straightforward donor.

The next easiest is a Locost from the original book. Build it +4" and use a Cortina axle (which is +4" too). With standard (book) front wishbone dimensions all will cool.

You can do any other combination of these things or a Mcsorley chassis etc. but none are as simple.

Hope that helps,
James

Thanks James, that all makes sense.

Please bear with me for yet another IRS question. As I understand what you're saying, the roadster with IRS is an easier build, is there however a huge handling advantage to be had from IRS?

On the hunt for a donor at the moment. Cortina's should be substantially cheaper to buy locally, that said I think the Sierra has a nicer gearbox.

I'm not planing to use the ford motor so possibly having a donor with a gearbox i'll use is a good idea.

[Edited on 4/4/09 by Land Locked]

The roadster book has arrived and been read from cover to cover.
So yep probably going the sierra donor route.

Good test stolen from another thread, make the chassis out of balsa wood first, then put your seat (and then you) inside and see how it all fits before you've cut and welded it all