, but I can't call it serious
I want to enlarge my suspension mounts from 12mm to 1/2" so that the suspension can be fitted with no play (the wishbones all have 1/2"
bushes)
I was originally going to use a 1/2" drill, but I am now a little concerned that this may not be controlled enough and potentially drill too big
a hole. Should I be using a hand reamer, and should I use a tapered or straight reamer bit? Or is there another technique or tool that I can use? Or
will my original idea be fine?
Thanks in advance for your help
It's only 0.7mm, gentle with a drill should do it
Sorry, have to disagree....
A normal twist drill will simply pull itself through the hole
leaving it lobed. 0.7mm (0.35 a side for the drill) isn't enough resistance
for a hand held drill.
I would use a reamer for certain. Taper would be easier, but not cheap.
A 1/2" HSS reamer should only be about a tenner.
quote:
Originally posted by shaft
Sorry, have to disagree....
A normal twist drill will simply pull itself through the hole
leaving it lobed. 0.7mm (0.35 a side for the drill) isn't enough resistance
for a hand held drill.
I would use a reamer for certain. Taper would be easier, but not cheap.
A 1/2" HSS reamer should only be about a tenner.
quote:
Originally posted by shaft
Sorry, have to disagree....
A normal twist drill will simply pull itself through the hole
leaving it lobed. 0.7mm (0.35 a side for the drill) isn't enough resistance
for a hand held drill.
I would use a reamer for certain. Taper would be easier, but not cheap.
A 1/2" HSS reamer should only be about a tenner.
quote:
Do you think that I will be able to 'get started' with a straight reamer, i.e. will they be able to find purchase in the 12mm hole. I have never used one before, but i guess it it is like using a tap? They certainly appear a lot cheaper than the tapered hand reamers! I could go for a step drill, but I was wondering if the material thickness is over the max allowed for the bits linked to by Mad Dave - I will need to check when I get home later.
Will some thing like this do the job?
I drilled mine out with a half inch drill, I just cut a very tight fitting hardwood block to fit beween the bracket ears, worked a treat. HTH Ray
quote:#
Originally posted by w4lrus
Will some thing like this do the job?
quote:
Originally posted by Fatgadget
quote:#
Originally posted by w4lrus
Will some thing like this do the job?
Surely that will create a tapered hole?
A reamer would be tool.Used to have an adjustable one that was ace for those sorts of applications.
quote:
Originally posted by Fatgadget
quote:#
Originally posted by w4lrus
Will some thing like this do the job?
Surely that will create a tapered hole?
A reamer would be tool.Used to have an adjustable one that was ace for those sorts of applications.
My fury suffered this all the way through - 12mm bolts and half inch bushes. Bloody dangerous because it means the holes can go oval and make
everything sloppy.
As has been suggested above by others, I bought a tapered reamer from ebay (non morse taper otherwise your drill can't grip it).
A tapered reamer will centre itself into the hole as you go and you're also best buying some spray-cutting oil (£7 a tin).
It made the world of difference - that 0.7mm. You can see the air gap and hear the rattle.
You can ream the holes with a cordless hand-drill (I did on the car) but if you get a chance to use a pillar-drill and a drill-vice. It will give you
the accuracy. If you can get your car into a drill-vice I would be impressed.
Happy to discuss further; I've been just where you were.
A straight reamer will have a slight taper at the beginning to help it start - about 5 - 10% of its length. You will have to start it as straight as
possible to avoid damaging the cutting edges.
A light cutting oil will help - even WD40 is better than nothing.
Tracy Tools would be a good place to buy what you need - cheap and quick.
see rule 8 over here - it's the only way to do it.
quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
My fury suffered this all the way through - 12mm bolts and half inch bushes. Bloody dangerous because it means the holes can go oval and make everything sloppy.
As has been suggested above by others, I bought a tapered reamer from ebay (non morse taper otherwise your drill can't grip it).
A tapered reamer will centre itself into the hole as you go and you're also best buying some spray-cutting oil (£7 a tin).
It made the world of difference - that 0.7mm. You can see the air gap and hear the rattle.
You can ream the holes with a cordless hand-drill (I did on the car) but if you get a chance to use a pillar-drill and a drill-vice. It will give you the accuracy. If you can get your car into a drill-vice I would be impressed.
Happy to discuss further; I've been just where you were.
That looks remarkably like mine - the tip has a slight taper to get it into the hole - email the seller to be sure. I think mine has a 0.5 or 1 mm
taper.
The rules are a work in development, but glad you like them. I have to add something about time not working the same in the garage, and a colour chart
for identifying injuries - if it isn't red and flowing, you've not really hurt yourself, etc.
by all means suggest more, and I'll write them up and credit the suggestion.
quote:
Originally posted by FuryRebuild
and a colour chart for identifying injuries - if it isn't red and flowing, you've not really hurt yourself, etc.
You're right. The rules have prevented me from making a serious issue of my burn. Taking the Micky out of myself is allowed?
, but I can't call it serious
W4lrus,
I will be doing this very soon, so am interested in what you use in the end. Have you found a decent source for the 1/2" bolts yet? Looking
around Namrick seemed to be the best place for them.
quote:
Originally posted by alan87
W4lrus,
I will be doing this very soon, so am interested in what you use in the end. Have you found a decent source for the 1/2" bolts yet? Looking around Namrick seemed to be the best place for them.