Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
420
Bet you didn't read the thread before posting
Bit of fun...
Competition (hillclimb) car, Locost chassis, Cortina uprights & brakes, 2ltr 16v Vauxhall, 4 speed Rocket box, English axle, full cage (3mm wall),
built using the following priorities:
1) budget
2) budget
3) weight saving
4) budget
Guess the weight (ready to race without driver)?
600kg?
I'd say optimistically around 450kg.
525?
580kgs
On the basis of going bust if you overstate the weight, I'll go one further, 526?
542Kg
475kg
It's 509kg. Was disappointed, for some reason I really wanted it under 500kgs, 499 would have sounded so much better. Still, it's nothing that a few thousand euros won't fix.....
Depending on what you have wheels and tyres have the potential to save well over 9kg (and you have all the advantages of lower unsprung (and better
rotating) weight.
Set of Wilwood's instead of the cortina brakes will only help.
420
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
420
quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
420
Bet you didn't read the thread before posting
595kg
Is that 509Kg with full tank of fuel? If you only put in whats needed to complete the run you might get under 500Kg. Or as said try some lighter
wheels. I was surprised what difference it made when i fitted ATS DTC wheels to mine.
Shouldnt be too hard to lose 9Kg. Can you lighten some of the bars in the cage? Changing the brakes might save a little. As you say though it starts
to get expensive to make small reductions.
How was it weighed? I often wonder if weigh bridges are accurate at the lower end of the range. I would have thought most are calibrated to take 20T
wagons etc. As toolmakers know - micrometers are more accurate if they are set using a setting master that is close to the part being measured, is the
same true for weigh bridges etc?
Put the driver on a diet... more effective than scratching around trying to save 9kg. In my car the heaviest thing is the nut holding the steering
wheel...
There's a very good reason why F1 drivers tend to be small, powerful guys!
[Edited on 19/5/09 by David Jenkins]
Depends on the weighbridge, I've read (on here I think) that most are only accurate to within about 10kg.
Cheapest and usually best way to lose weight for competition is to lay off the pies for a month - though that doesn't help with getting below the
500kg mark.
Alloy gearbox housing will save ~5kg. You did say you built it with weight saving in mind but how thin is your GRP body work? I know I can say at
least 10kgs if I switched to the lighter GRP body work offered by my kit supplier.
Still pretty good for a CEC though.
[Edited on 19-5-09 by bimbleuk]
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Put the driver on a diet... more effective than scratching around trying to save 9kg. In my car the heaviest thing is the nut holding the steering wheel...
There's a very good reason why F1 drivers tend to be small, powerful guys!
[Edited on 19/5/09 by David Jenkins]
take off the silencer, mine weighs 6 kilos!
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Put the driver on a diet... more effective than scratching around trying to save 9kg. In my car the heaviest thing is the nut holding the steering wheel...
There's a very good reason why F1 drivers tend to be small, powerful guys!