scootz
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 01:31 PM |
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Repairing Plastic Rad...
Got my Polo rad today... only problem is that the small bleed pipe on the plastic housing was broken off and lying in the packaging!
I've contacted the seller (ebay sale) to see what we can do, but not heard back yet.
One of the solutions I offered was to keep it for a (decent) partial refund and I would repair it myself.
Thing is... how best would you do it? Use an epoxy resin to put the pipe back on, or leave it off and get a small blanking plate to bond over the
hole (I have a bleed at the back of the engine - tank to head inlet).
Not a great pic...
[img][/img]
It's Evolution Baby!
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 01:34 PM |
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Take the money and wack a self tapper in it and block the hole
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 01:35 PM |
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What about using Liquid metal, supposed to be ok upto 600 degrees.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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twybrow
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 01:38 PM |
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I used plastic cement (the stuff used to put together plastic hot water pipes etc). I used a small self tapper covered in glue, and it has never
leaked a drop!
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scootz
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 01:47 PM |
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Cheers guys... the chap has since got back to me and offered me a tenner refund (I only paid £30 for it - including delivery).
Now I know that it's 'do-able' I'll go for that option... £20's not bad for a slightly-faulty but new Nissens rad I
suppose!
 
Description
It's Evolution Baby!
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TimC
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 01:58 PM |
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Fo sho - I always regretted not blanking the hole on my MNR - its a pita to get a decent smooth run under a 7 nosecone for a start....
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 02:36 PM |
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tap hole and add a screw in barbed pipe fitting? summat from demon Tweeks for fuel system, 1/4" or similar or a fitting from compressor
supplier
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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v8kid
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 02:52 PM |
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The plastic taps nicely and you can insert a bolt for bleeding. Did it with mine and it works a treat
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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scootz
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 03:00 PM |
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Thanks people!
Will have a look at it in the morning and see if I have enough 'meat' to tap it (its broken right at the base of the bleed pipe.
It's Evolution Baby!
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Breaker
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 03:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scootz
Now I know that it's 'do-able' I'll go for that option... £20's not bad for a slightly-faulty but new Nissens rad I
suppose!
Yes, Nissens are good quality. Which seller is it on eBay or linky ?
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scootz
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 04:04 PM |
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I'm afraid it was the last one he had Breaker.
It's Evolution Baby!
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 05:21 PM |
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Scott
Take a m6 and tap the hole out.
Apply some PU adhesive and screw the m6 bolt and washer in.
put another washer inside and a nut.... job done.
My old rad was like that and we never had a problem with it......
[Edited on 28-10-10 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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scootz
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 05:31 PM |
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Cheers Mango!
It's Evolution Baby!
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02GF74
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 05:44 PM |
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if you gete stuck, there is thisd
no broken bits at all.
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scootz
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 05:51 PM |
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Cheers, but too mahoosive!
It's Evolution Baby!
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irvined
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| posted on 28/10/10 at 06:36 PM |
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If you don't need the fitting, then screw in a self tapper and some epoxy - mine broke on the way to morocco, and its held ever since.
If you do need it as said you can get a hose barb that should do the job.
http://irvined.blogspot.com
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