PeetBee
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 posted on 26/4/05 at 09:23 PM |
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PLEASE HELP! Snapped Bolts
Any ideas for getting snapped bolts out of the engine block?
One for the water pump and one that holds the thermostat housing on.
Despite copious amounts of wd40 they still snapped. 
There is a little bit of each bolt sticking out of the block but I don't want to mangle it with the mole grips just yet in case anyone can
suggest a better idea!
Right, back off outside with the WD40 in anticipation of the impending suggestions!
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:28 PM |
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you could use an easy out tool. if that snaps then thats it. You could also drill out the bolt, and then tap it to the next size up.
I have been lucky once by drilling out the bolt with a drill just large enough, and then running the original tap size into the bore. you might get
lucky
atb
steve
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nick205
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:29 PM |
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Not tried it myself, but most people suggest applying a bit of heat (acetylene torch or similar) to break the joint between the bolt and block. Once
it's free, then mole grips might be OK to get them out.
Nick
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flak monkey
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:34 PM |
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If you have a welder, weld a nut on the end of the bolt thats sticking out. The heat will break the seal and it should come out quite easily....
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:36 PM |
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One easy thing to try - get a bitof steel rod roughly the same diameter as the bolt. Heat it up as hot as you can - white hot - then immediately
place the hot end against the end of the bolt.
This is a way of concentrating the heat just on the bolt, which may or may not help.
David
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ReMan
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:39 PM |
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TRy a proper penetrating oil, WD40s good for many things but I dont rate it for your job, give it hours to soak, heat as suggested and a dont
underestimate hitting it with a hammer
Try tightening too to crack the joint, grip wth the best molegrips or stilsons to do the least damage to the remaining bit
HTH
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Triton
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:45 PM |
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Dot punch....use it like a chisel
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 09:53 PM |
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if the block is ali there may be one other thing to try. i remember being told that there is a chemical which you cna get from the chemists which
attacks steel, unfortunatley i can't remember what it is called. and it may have been just for high speed steels (for removing broken taps and
such)
the method was to make a solution of this stuff and build a dam around the hole with putty and pour the solution onto the broken bolt/tap.
anyone elso familiar with this??
Build Blog
Build Photo Album
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rocket
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 10:05 PM |
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U have u2u
put the cutting gear down and walk away from light.
quote:
Originally posted by PeetBee
Any ideas for getting snapped bolts out of the engine block?
One for the water pump and one that holds the thermostat housing on.
Despite copious amounts of wd40 they still snapped.
There is a little bit of each bolt sticking out of the block but I don't want to mangle it with the mole grips just yet in case anyone can
suggest a better idea!
Right, back off outside with the WD40 in anticipation of the impending suggestions!
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owelly
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 10:06 PM |
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If it's an alloy casting and it's got 'white fur' on the threads, soaking it in vinegar will help. I favour tw4tting the
stumps with a hammer then welding something to whatever is sticking out and then gently twist for and aft untill the job's a good 'un!!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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ReMan
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 10:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by liam.mccaffrey
there is a chemical which you cna get from the chemists which attacks steel,
anyone elso familiar with this??
Coke (Coka cola)?
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stevebubs
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| posted on 26/4/05 at 10:10 PM |
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Noooo!!! not easy outs!
I had the same problem at the weekend.
Option 1)
Carefully drill out the centre of the bolt starting with the smallest possible brill bit and the progressing up. Hopefully this will enable you to
collapse the bolt in the hole
Option 2)
As above but use a carbide dremel milling attachment to enlarge the holes
Option 3)
Get an expert to do it. Will cost a few quid but save a whole heap of agro and probably take him less than 10 minutes (barsteward)
FWIW, I tried using easy-outs on mine and the first one snapped in the hole...these things can't be drilled (easily)....
Oh...and plusgas is supposed to be better than WD40 for this....
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
you could use an easy out tool. if that snaps then thats it. You could also drill out the bolt, and then tap it to the next size up.
I have been lucky once by drilling out the bolt with a drill just large enough, and then running the original tap size into the bore. you might get
lucky
atb
steve
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JonBowden
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 12:17 AM |
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quote:
TRy a proper penetrating oil, WD40s good for many things but I dont rate it for your job
I couldn't agree more. WD-40 has never freed anything for me.
I have a tin of plus-gas. Lusol is just as good
Jon
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PeetBee
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 07:29 AM |
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Wow, I must snap more bolts, I've never been so popular!
Thanks for all your replies, I will consign the wd40 to the bin and get myself some proper stuff first.
I'll then start your suggestions, I'll let you know how it went this weekend.
The scary thing was that I didn't apply any pressure to these bolts they just went straight away. I think I'll look to replace the 25 year
old bolts in my crossflow that I did manage to remove just to be on the safe side. So expect some silly questions on where to get various bolts in the
near future!!
Cheers
Pete
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Hellfire
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 07:40 AM |
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I wouldn't use "easy out's" either... we had an exhaust lug seize. Using the "easy out" we cracked the block  we
also managed to get it rewelded fortunately.
We also used the welded nut thing - to no avail
Use a drill the size of the thread core and drill down the centre of the bolt. The coils of metal which remain in the block can be picked out
carefully with a small implement and copious amounts of penetrating oil. After that, run down the thread with a bottoming tap... it took us hours but
we managed to do it eventually.
Good luck! 
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 07:42 AM |
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I found that a low-range torque wrench was invaluable on my X-flow - especially for the 1/4" bolts, which are tightened to just a few ft/lbs. (7
- 9 ft/lbs, I think).
David
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 09:22 AM |
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Welding a nut worked for me.
Water pump bolts in ally.
Two out of three came out.
The remaining bolt will be left and another thered will be stuck to the block nearby to clamp down onto the water pump.
Darren
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 27/4/05 at 05:38 PM |
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Don't use eaziouts, the best place for them is in the bin. As already suggested if you have a mig welder , weld a nut onto the remains of the
bolt, the nut should be a close fit to the bolt . Allow to cool slightly then attempt to undo using a spanner. If the nut comes off weld on another,
if after several attempts you still cannot remove remains then it's possible to get left hand drill bits , these are supposed to remove
brokenbolts/studs as you drill into them . Have not used this procedure myself as welding nuts on usually works. best of luck Rusty
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PeetBee
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| posted on 2/5/05 at 07:16 PM |
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Update on my bolts!
The thermostat bolt is now drilled out and is ok.
The water pump one had snapped off too close to the block to weld a nut on
And the chassis crossmember is in the way so you can't get a drill in on it, so it's either an engine out job or stick a great big bungee
around the whole lot to hold it in place!!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/5/05 at 08:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
I wouldn't use "easy out's" either... we had an exhaust lug seize. Using the "easy out" we cracked the block we
also managed to get it rewelded fortunately.
We also used the welded nut thing - to no avail
Use a drill the size of the thread core and drill down the centre of the bolt. The coils of metal which remain in the block can be picked out
carefully with a small implement and copious amounts of penetrating oil. After that, run down the thread with a bottoming tap... it took us hours but
we managed to do it eventually.
Good luck!
This is the only "reliable" way that I have found to sort this problem. Usually happens on exhaust manifold to downpipe bolts, especially
on Opel mantas where there are 6 of the blighters!
Grind the top of the broken bolt dead flat, find the centre and centre punch it very carefully. A few minutes spent doing this really accuately will
save ages later on. Then just as Hellfire said, find the tapping drill size for the bolt (with metric it is the nominal metric size in mm less the
pitch in mm) and drill it out being very careful to get it square.
If you do touch the threads a bit it won't hurt too much, as long as you don't really cut into them.
regarding the "leave it to the pros" bit, they will only do the above anyway, they don't have magic wands!
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clbarclay
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| posted on 2/5/05 at 09:40 PM |
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One sollution that has worked from time to time on corroded bolts is to drill down the bolt with a left hand drill bit.
Another are sleeve inserts. You drill out the bolt remains and bore out the hole in the casting to the correct size. The sleve insert is self tapping
ad is wound in with a bolt/nut combination. These can also be used to repair holes with striped threads.
I'm waiting for a similare problem my self so that i can try the straight splined extractors. The artical from which I found out about these
makes them out to be a very different peice of kit to the left hand thread screw in and snap easy outs.
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owelly
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| posted on 2/5/05 at 10:13 PM |
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As a DIY budget thread insert, drill the hole out to a larger size, then tap it out to a suitable bolt/stud size and then (with thread-loc) tighten
the bolt into the 'ole. Cut the bolt off flush and center-punch round the edge of the thread to secure it then re-drill and tap.
I have used this method on small stuff right up to 2" threads to good effect. Though it has been known for the 'insert' to come out
when the stud/bolt is removed!!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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PeetBee
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| posted on 3/5/05 at 06:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by clbarclay
I'm waiting for a similare problem my self so that i can try the straight splined extractors.
And you're in Worcestershire are you, hmm Gloucester isn't too far, fancy a practice?! 
Thanks owelly, that's a good idea if all else fails.
[Edited on 3/5/05 by PeetBee]
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clbarclay
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| posted on 3/5/05 at 06:41 PM |
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Not really (I would sooner I never suffer from broket bolts/threads) and I haven't got or tried snap-on etc. straight extractors. its just most
people on here seem to have been bitten too hard by easy outs to try different extractor tools.
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 3/5/05 at 08:21 PM |
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Use the snap on extractors at work, much better than the easy out type. Not that cheap though, with the basic stud/screw extractor set starting at
£50.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=158&group_ID=1254&store=uk&dir=catalog
Might be better off using the weld on bolt method if its only for a couple of bolts!
Chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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