cm
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 01:09 PM |
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1300x Flow - K Series
Hi All,
Following on from my earlier post 1300cc > Zetec, I have decided to go back to the k series because of the pure love for i. Previous car's
being tuned rovers and my history with rovertech online and these engines in particular I know alot about.
Anyway I have bought a caterham stainless manifold, alloy bellhousing to take a type 9, and also a caterham wet sump to give a bit more ground
clearance.
I can source an engine fairly easily, might just go for a 1400 or 1600 as I can get a low milage one <10k for only £250!!
Anyway, I think I have most parts and have a good idea about how these go together.
Couple thing's out of my experience tho.
> Power stearing, what can I do to bin this, it wont be needed sowill I have to make a blanking plate?
> The hard bit! ecu & wiring! now I can get an engine with a ecu and engine wiring loom but I am going to be lost from there, could I basically
lift the ecu engine loom and plant it to the locost, what further wiring would be needed, obviously ignition and dash stuff, how could I pick these
off the ecu. This is where I would become stuck!
>The clutch, which set-up can I use here to attach everything sweet? Also I presume I would need a sierra type 9 but what diff would I need as I
currently dont know what I have, capri rear axle with 1300cc xflow?
> Finally mounts, I can get these fabricated but with the engine being mounted the wrong way, i.e facing the rear, where would I attach to on the
engine.
Any help would be apriciated as this is now a real project, having spent £400 on the bell housing, sump and manifold.
Cheers All
Ian
[Edited on 19/3/07 by cm]
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bilbo
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 01:28 PM |
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I'm currently planning on using a Rover T series in my build. I have the full loom, ecu etc from the engine donor (620Ti) which I plan to splice
up and use as the whole loom for the locost. The later MEMs system I have has lots of security bits and bobs, so I'm pretty much resigned to
using the whole car loom, but I think the earlier mems systems are much easier to plumb in?
Alternativlty, you could look at after market ECUs or Megasquirt as these would probably make life a bit simpler - there are plenty of people on here
who can help you with that.
Or failing that, you could always stick some carbs on instead (if the car is post SVA that is?)
---------------------------------------
Build Diary: http://bills-locost.blogspot.com/
Web Site: http://locost.atspace.com
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UncleFista
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 01:43 PM |
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I know the immobilser can be problematic on these engines, I'm sure there's a couple of LBers with K-series fitted, hopefully one will
turn up soon.
If it was me, I'd go Carbs & megajolt, or even megasquirt, I'd prefer to start from scratch rather than sit in front of a huge jumbled
loom pulling my hair out 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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Humbug
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 01:45 PM |
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If you havea look in my photo archive you can see a few pics of the engine, etc. I had mounts made up, and they fix to some handy threaded holes on
what are the sides of the block in the new north-south orientation.
If you are getting a low mileage engine, it's probably like mine with the full ECU gubbins. For simplicity, I stuck with the standard ECU,
immobiliser and intake manifold, but I had to get an auto electricion to do the wiring for me.
Mine's a 1400 and I used the standard flywheel, with a clutch (Rover, I think), spigot bearing etc. from Fisher Sportscars. They also provided
the bellhousing and clutch release arrm, but you've probably got those already.
I also used the standard sump which means that combined with using the standard intake manifold and the ST low bonnet, I had to raise the nose a bit
and still have a small bonnet scoop.
Also try GeoffT - he did a Xflow to K-series conversion, though he's got throttle bodies on his.
Good luck 
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stevebubs
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 01:54 PM |
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If you use the existing loom then the Emerald is plug-compatible with the K-Series ECU....literally unplug old one and plug in new one.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 02:20 PM |
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Buy a complete running car use as much of the loom as possible, then at a later date you can put a newer or bigger engine in.
Metro GTI had the simplest security system 75 1.8 the most difficult to make matters more complex as the MEMS system developed other systems were tied
into such as ABS and body control computers (BCU). So I would stick to mid/late 90s car with MEMS 1.9. say a 214SEi.
The security system can be got round using this
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=58509
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Pezza
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 05:29 PM |
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No need for a blanking plate for the power steering pump, it just bolts on to the block with a belt to the pulley.
At least it was on the 1400 I just swapped.
You couldn't pwn your way out of a wet paper bag, with "PWN ME!!" written on it, from the "pwned take-away" which originally contained one
portion of chicken tikka pwnsala and the obligatory free pwnpadom.
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SaveTheDodo
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 05:38 PM |
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Hi cm,
Have you remembered that 1.4 & 1.6 litre engines need a hole drilled in the end of the crank for the spigot bearing?? Its not the easiest thing in
the world to do!!
Cheers
Andrew
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Humbug
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 05:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Pezza
No need for a blanking plate for the power steering pump, it just bolts on to the block with a belt to the pulley.
At least it was on the 1400 I just swapped.
Agreed - that's what I did with my 1400
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Humbug
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 05:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SaveTheDodo
Hi cm,
Have you remembered that 1.4 & 1.6 litre engines need a hole drilled in the end of the crank for the spigot bearing?? Its not the easiest thing in
the world to do!!
Cheers
On my 1.4 I got a bush thingy from Fisher Sportscars to go on the end of the gearbox shaft - I was told that was the spigot bearing. Anyway, with that
on, the shaft just slipped into the hole in the engine (technical term ). No drilling required
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GeoffT
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 10:06 AM |
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I copped out of the ECU problems by taking the megasquirt route - this presents a whole new set of challenges of course, but satisfying when you
finally get it all up and running sweetly.
If you're using the Caterham bellhousing you'll probably find that a standard type 9 input shaft is about an inch too short. I
didn't know about the extension piece mentioned by Simon (Humbug), and ended up using a V6 type 9 (longer shaft), had to trim about 10mm from
the shaft for it all to fit.
You'll find the clutch from an early Sierra (23 spline 190mm, 82-84ish) is a perfect fit onto the Rover 10" flywheel, you may also find
that you need the deeper Capri release bearing (CCT133) to get the release arm in the right place.
Good luck! Geoff.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 11:29 AM |
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Just to add the MEMS unit plugs changed on later versions, so you can't just swop in a later engine and ECU.
Personally I would magasquirt.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 12:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by HumbugOn my 1.4 I got a bush thingy from Fisher Sportscars to go on the end of the gearbox shaft - I was told that
was the spigot bearing. Anyway, with that on, the shaft just slipped into the hole in the engine (technical term ). No drilling required
The spigot bush/bearing should be a tight fit in the end of the crank, you would normaly have to use a suitable drift and hammer to get it in.
Everything I have read suggests the end of the cranks on the 1.4s and 1.6s needs drilling, did you engine come from a FWD donor car?
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Humbug
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| posted on 26/3/07 at 09:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by HumbugOn my 1.4 I got a bush thingy from Fisher Sportscars to go on the end of the gearbox shaft - I was told that
was the spigot bearing. Anyway, with that on, the shaft just slipped into the hole in the engine (technical term ). No drilling required
The spigot bush/bearing should be a tight fit in the end of the crank, you would normaly have to use a suitable drift and hammer to get it in.
Everything I have read suggests the end of the cranks on the 1.4s and 1.6s needs drilling, did you engine come from a FWD donor car?
Yes, from a Rover 25. The alloy bellhousing came from Fisher, and the thing that was described to me as a spigot bearing was like a ring that fitted
fairly tightly on the end of the Type 9 input shaft. When fitted, the shaft then sits nicely in the hole in the engine (). Again, as said, no
drilling required.
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