im wanting something rather more resistant to stone chips than that! thanks guys
al
how much would it cost to get the chassis shotblasted? average prices, what it cost you etc? and what is the best thing to do about rustproofing
etc?
thanks al
I don't know how much it would cost, but I do know it will need to be rust protected immediately afterwards. I think you might need to think in
terms of having it shot blasted and painted or powder coated at the same time (or pretty close to that)
If it was me I would give it a good wire brushing and paint it with Wickes water based metal paint (similar to smooth hammerite)
John
Is this the bit where nitram and I come along and recommend epoxy mastic 121??
I sand blasted the chassis myself for the price of a bag of dried sand - just means covering EVERYTHING in the garage with plastic sheet first...
James
[Edited on 19/12/08 by cloudy]
If you're going to do that ^^^^ PLEASE make sure you use decent (preferably positive pressure) respiratory protection.
I got my chassis blasted, etch primed and powder coated for about £150 I think.
Chris
How to get sylicosis ? in one easy lesson.
Blast and prime around here is £200.
No need for scare mongering rusty nuts you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting with a particle
filter mask and full face shield....
James
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
No need for scare mongering rusty nuts you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting with a particle filter mask and full face shield....
James
James,
You might like to read this:
HSE link
[Edited on 20/12/08 by David Jenkins]
i wouldnt worry guys i dont have a compressor or sand blasting equipment anyway! i might have to spend a load of time wirebrushing and sanding the
chassis after buying some epoxymastic 121 if its a helluva lot cheaper, and the same strength as powdercoat? ive got a tin of hamerite smooth but its
really easy to scratch it off in places, just with your thumb im wanting something rather more resistant to stone chips than that!
thanks guys
al
I'd use a wire brush in an angry grinder, followed by some form of rust protective coating. The only hazard with a wire brush is the wires
shooting off, usually into my legs! I ended up wearing my leather welding apron to fend them off...
I had my chassis blasted, primed and plastic coated professionally for around £150, but I used a wire brush and POR-15's Metal Ready for all the
other stuff (e.g. the roll bar).
did you mean to say plastic coated? if so where did you get that done and how durable is it? id have thought plastic would be a lot less prone to
cracking off if a stone hits it, so id be well interested in getting mine plastic coated ... assuming of course there is such a thing and it wasnt a
typo 
thanks al
I should have said powder-coated! 
(which is a sort of plastic... he said, making excuses...)
There are good and bad sides to powder coating - it can look very smart, and it is durable if properly done. However, it can flake off in sheets if
not done properly, and stone chips can lead to water getting behind the coating and lifting it off (or causing rust due to trapped water). Last
minute chassis mods can be a pain too.
If I was doing my chassis now, knowing what I do from personal experience, I'd probably get the chassis bead-blasted and primed by a
professional, then paint the chassis myself. There are some good products out there, but I'd probably use something simple like Chassis Black,
which is an old-fashioned oil-based paint. It will chip, just like every other coating, but at least it will be easy to fix with a paintbrush.
Some people on here use Dulux gloss, and they say that it works well!
Given as you didn't even spell the condition correctly It looked you were just regurgitating hear-say,
It's a big problem granted - but a lot of what we do is risky - grinding dust is just as bad and I bet most people don't wear pos pressure
masks whilst doing it...
Obviously doing it as a job day in day out you need to not incur even incremental problems, but a once off is different...
That HSE report states the breathing equipment was not in good condition and commerical sandblasting is far higher velocity and producing far smaller
particulates than a home blaster on the end of an air line - which produces minimal dusting anyway as the grains remain intact
James
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
No need for scare mongering rusty nuts you can't "get" silicosis (which is progressive anyway) in a session of blasting with a particle filter mask and full face shield....
James
Sorry but thats a load of bull , if you really think its worth the risk thats up to you but don't tell others that its safe to do so when it isn't. At least one member of this forum has problems just from using a pressure washer let alone a known hazard!
Big deal! I spelt something wrong. This happens to be a car forum not a spelling competition. I suppose you have never spelt something wrong? As for advising people, it would be a good idea to get your facts straight.
Cool it! I wasn't having a go at your spelling at all, I was just stating a lot of people talk about subjects without knowing all the facts.
Perhaps it would have been more helpful for you to post a balanced view pointing out the dangers of sand which I should have instead of just making a
snide remark?
[Edited on 20/12/08 by cloudy]
i asked about doing this a while ago. Ben on here is a doctor and he, politely, explained its a REALLY bad idea. I listened.
My plan is to go to my local blasting place and get used "J Blast" media. Its very agressive new, but once used its going to be hopefully a
lot more like what i want.
Of i may just use mr angry grinder for a day