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Chassis paint
Miks15 - 22/12/08 at 09:22 PM

What sort of paint should i be looking for? Anyone recomend anything?

Also do i need to prime it first (red oxy primer etc?) or can you get self priming paint?

Thanks

Mikkel


chris_smith - 22/12/08 at 09:26 PM

maybe try this


linky


maskell01 - 22/12/08 at 09:31 PM

I Used Hammerite!
Thinned down with white spirit then sprayed through a gun!


skodaman - 22/12/08 at 09:45 PM

Using David's zinc based grey primer and satin black on mine (both cellulose).
Trying to buy locally proved impossible but it's available on ebay no problems.


skodaman - 22/12/08 at 09:45 PM

Using David's zinc based grey primer and satin black on mine (both cellulose).
Trying to buy locally proved impossible but it's available on ebay no problems.


austin man - 22/12/08 at 09:53 PM

I would second that go for a zinc based primer (unless your looking at saving weight as it is a heavy paint, then hammerite/ smoothrite it for final protection. A lot of people have their's powcer coated this can blister if not done correctly


Miks15 - 22/12/08 at 09:56 PM

The hammerite stuff seems to be direct to metal stuff, would this be ok? Dont to have to spend more money any time messing with primer


minitici - 22/12/08 at 10:05 PM

Hammerite / smoothrite does not stick well to nice new shiney steel - prefers rusty metal


big_wasa - 22/12/08 at 10:06 PM

I sprayed mine with synthetic paint. Its like cellulose. It took three weeks to go hard enough so it didnt chip by looking at it.

I wish I had tried epoxy mastic. Its on ebay and the seller is in Market Deeping. just dont brush it on. See Nitram's posts for details


Miks15 - 22/12/08 at 10:08 PM

mightr just leave it out in the rain for a bit then

SO it wouldnt be suitable without some other primer then?


mistergrumpy - 22/12/08 at 10:09 PM

I used Hammerite direct on the chassis in some places and its utter pish, flaking already and i haven't even got the thing on the road. Get some primer on it first, you'll not regret it. If I could I'd strip the whole thing and respray it.


Miks15 - 22/12/08 at 10:18 PM

anyone recomend a primer? IS red oxide good primer good for this sort of thing?


Mark Allanson - 22/12/08 at 10:21 PM

I have the advantage of being a bodyshop manager and need an understanding of paint for my job. I almost didn't answer this thread because it will probably make me sound like a nasty old grump, only one of the replies contains any valid content, and that is the link to chassis paint - I cannot think why they call it that

Hammerite is good paint for applying to heavily rusted items as it has no self etching properties of its own and relies on the rough surface of corroded metal to bind with the surface. It has added silicone to give the hammered finish which will contaminate your spray gun forever (any future coat of any paint will have 'fisheyes' of silicone - it only needs a few microgrammes.) If you add white spirit to Hammerite it will break down the binders - they have their own specialised thinners which you can buy.

David zinc 182 is not cellulose based, neither is satin black unless it is over 20 years old.

Heavy paint - not even going to go there!

Synthetic is a good paint to use but is the exact opposite of cellulose

There - everybody hate me now


mark chandler - 22/12/08 at 10:21 PM

I,ll second that, never found hammerite that good, its so hard it chips. If you want locost get a can of dulux oil based black paint from B&Q, it will take a while to go off but is resistant to knocks.


Miks15 - 22/12/08 at 10:28 PM

well mark what combination or what paint would you recomend

Im looking for blue paint aswell so need to be available in blue

Thanks


Mark Allanson - 22/12/08 at 10:47 PM

How much do you want to spend - the ultimate is a shot blast then a chromate etch then a wet on wet primer followed by a 2K solid colour but that would need a lot of pro equipment and costs.

The cheapest is a rubbed down chassis with 80g production paper followed by 2 roller coats of zinc 182 (get the special 'light' variety) followed by non drip gloss with a gloss roller, use enough coats to give complete opacity. Domestic gloss (quality brand) is actually quite a good option, although automotive synthetic would be more resilliant.


Miks15 - 22/12/08 at 10:54 PM

What are your toughts on red oxide primer?Dad has a fair bit lying around and it would be free.

Would this be good enough to use then a gloss coat on top?

Thanks


mark chandler - 22/12/08 at 11:00 PM

Pop down your local agricultural suppliers, they do stuff called Teamac. It comes in colours such as:

Ford blue
JCB yellow
Masey Furguson grey

Not the cheapest but sticks like @@@@ to a blanket and can take a whack.

Brush or spray, with a good finish.

I painted the chassis of my landrover with this, used to get beaten to bits when racing, the stones soon chipped off hammerite, this stuff was untouched. Worth the extra dosh IMHO.


Regards Mark


Mark Allanson - 22/12/08 at 11:10 PM

Transport enamel, I had forgotten about that - another trade name is Tekaloid - good stuff


MikeR - 22/12/08 at 11:35 PM

So the summary is, rub down (maybe with angry grinder and wire brush aka "the tool" ).

Coat with zinc based primer

Finish with either...

Transport Enamel
Or
Tekaloid
or
Chassis Paint
or
Decent Gloss paint

If you where to add the epoxy paint into the equation mark what sort of order (ignore price) would you put the top / final coat paints?

(i don't hate you mark, i like to listen to someone who has 'work' experience as opposed to 'hobby' experience. Just don't be upset if i completely ignore you as for some stupid reason i decide i know better!)


(usually i find out i'm wrong, but i seem to like to learn by making mistakes)


Mr Whippy - 23/12/08 at 08:09 AM

you could buy some of the marine hull paints, they tend to be very resistant to corrosion and salt and there's tough zinc primers too.


PAULD - 23/12/08 at 09:30 AM

I used hammerite and although it has its uses chassis paint isn't one of them. It has chipped badly and I have spent some time under the car replacing it.


steve m - 23/12/08 at 09:44 AM

I used a zinc primer, and then hammerrite
to be honest IMHO hammerite is crap, it chips very easily, and on my car now the whole chssis realy needs to be redone

Yet my last project , Covin Porshe, i was advised to use normal house hold black gloss, over a good zinc primer,
I havent seen the Covin for about 2 years, but when i did the chassis still looked like the day i painted it


Mr Whippy - 23/12/08 at 09:54 AM

I’ve used spray smoothrite on the bluebirds suspension components and its worked very well but need quite a few coats about 10 minutes apart while hung over an electric fire, the gloss is quite superb and its went very hard and tough. They were then left to cure in the house for a week before refitting. Can’t say how well it would last in the real world as the cars back in its plastic bag till the spring but they sure look nice


dhutch - 23/12/08 at 10:45 AM

Been reading this thread with interest.
- I have a 17 yo seven which needs something doing in terms of chassis paint.

By best thought so far is to cant the car over to about 45 degrees (for access) then presurewash it all and rub down as best i can (pannels in place) and then see what im left with.
- If its mainly down to steel, then clearly i need primer/undercoat followed by something suitable.
- Then, or if its mainly actaully sound paint still, a suitable top coat. That is compatable with what went before.

On the boat (narrowboat) we have:

Blast primer (very thin, red coloured, two pack paint)
Zinc Epoxy (high built zinc rich epoxy based undercoat)
Then eather a two pack Acryilic Urethene for the topsides, or a one pot Underwater Vinal Primer for the blacking.

My favoured job, which is how i would start on a new chassis, would proberbly be the blast back to bright, then use the blast primer, followed by the zinc undercoat suitably thined to reduce build a little, then a top coat of choice. Could be one of the above, else proberbly the acrylicurethene as it have loads. (the blacking would be fantasic, but for future, is compatable with just about nothing, and its thick and heavy)


Failing that, ive heard a lot about Por15 and an keen to have a play!


Daniel

[Edited on 23/12/2008 by dhutch]


PAULD - 23/12/08 at 11:06 AM

Following Steve M's reply, a chap who restores classics recommended dulux houshold gloss over a good zinc primer, says it's as good as anything.


Miks15 - 23/12/08 at 12:04 PM

Would something likeTHIS be suitable?

Then a household gloss on top

Or even halfords own brand zinc primer?

Just wanting to pick some up today if i can

[Edited on 23/12/08 by Miks15]


David Jenkins - 23/12/08 at 12:23 PM

quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
Failing that, ive heard a lot about Por15 and an keen to have a play!



Their most useful product is Metal Ready - you squirt it onto bare steel with a hand sprayer, leave it for a few minutes, then rinse it off. I think it puts a thin phosphate coating on the metal, but the main benefit is its effect on the surface - it leaves a slightly rough, keyed finish that's perfect for paint. Untreated, degreased steel doesn't hold paint well unless it's keyed in some way.

The only down-side is that it has to be rinsed off with loads of water (it's not harmful to the environment when diluted, so no great risk when rinsed off - you will need gloves when using it neat, though).


BenB - 23/12/08 at 12:30 PM

The ultimate (from the looks of it!!) for chassis painting would be

POR Hardnose paint

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9514

You can't build a car for £250 but you might be able to paint it for that much!!!


mad4x4 - 23/12/08 at 12:49 PM

Stuff called ZINGA - basically cold galvi.. can be brushed or sprayed.

Www.zinga.co.uk


russbost - 23/12/08 at 01:22 PM

"Hammerite / smoothrite does not stick well to nice new shiney steel - prefers rusty metal"

& all the comments about hammerite chipping etc.

Like any paint Hammerite will only stick properly if it's got something to stick to, make sure your chassis is oil free (wash down with thinners/whte spirit) & rub down with some 180 grit, hammerite will then stick & IMHO is no more likely to chip than any other paint. Alternatively use a leght coat of acid etch after degreasing, basically anything should then be able to get a grip.

If you want something to last forever go for the epoxy based stuff that Nitram used, doesn't look particularly pretty tho'


Mr Whippy - 23/12/08 at 01:53 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
Stuff called ZINGA - basically cold galvi.. can be brushed or sprayed.

Www.zinga.co.uk


I bought two cans of this stuff. Have to say I wasn't too impressed see linky


David Jenkins - 23/12/08 at 02:27 PM

quote:
Originally posted by russbost
If you want something to last forever go for the epoxy based stuff that Nitram used, doesn't look particularly pretty tho'


I used that stuff on my wishbones and rear suspension arms - I applied it with a disposable 2" foam roller, as used for gloss paint. Results in a decent finish - not as flat as spraying, but no brush marks... a bit like the finish you get when you put vinyl emulsion on a wall (an even coat, with a regular distribution of slightly bobbly bits).


rusty nuts - 23/12/08 at 08:13 PM

After removing the crap powder coating from my front suspension I used an oil based primer (Don't have the can to hand so don't know what make ) followed by some paint specially made for brush painting from our local Movac paint suppliers .Paint was mixed to match the rest of the chassis , dries to a good finish and has been on for nearly a year with no lifting, chips etc . Again I can't remember the name as the tin had no markings but will try to find out . Well happy so far and will be redoing the rest of the chassis etc the same.


MikeR - 24/12/08 at 10:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
Stuff called ZINGA - basically cold galvi.. can be brushed or sprayed.

Www.zinga.co.uk


I bought two cans of this stuff. Have to say I wasn't too impressed see linky


There was a review i was reading a while ago of a cold galv paint. It compared itself to some other stuff inc Zinga. Zinga did not do well by comparison (bleeding obvious really, they wouldn't do a comparison where something else worked out better)

Trying to remember what it was now..... will post later if i do remember.