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Pinto engine... good?bad?ugly?
luke_stephenson - 18/9/09 at 11:40 AM

hi, hope to get some decent advice. im planning to build a locost and have a 2.0pinto (EFI) sierra. what problems am i likely to have? i notice the engine is very tall! even though i plan to fit side draughts. I want to get the cars identity on SVA will i be able to do this even if i choose not to use the pinto? is the pinto worth spending time on or should i just try to find a zetc?

sorry to have so little knowledge!

cheers


Mr Whippy - 18/9/09 at 11:50 AM

Personally I like the pinto, its tough, simple to install and rugged. If it’s your first car it would be a good engine to start with. Standard power output and overall weight are not very favorable compared to modern car engines. However a 2.0 in a locost is quite lively enough for most people. My Falcon has one and I have no complaints.


speedyxjs - 18/9/09 at 11:51 AM

Welcome to the madhouse!

Plenty of people are still building with pinto's so i think you should get plenty of good advice from here should you need it.

The main issue with the pinto's is the height but most overcome this issue by shortening the sump.

Should you decide to fit a Zetec, you will still encounter similar problems with the sump and you will also need to find a bellhousing adaptor to mate a rwd gearbox to the Zetec.


David Jenkins - 18/9/09 at 11:56 AM

The pinto is big and heavy - but many people have used them very successfully.

BTW: Forget about using the original registration - if you use enough bits from 1 car you might get an age-related plate, but you won't be allowed to keep the old number. Saying that - I'm just waiting for someone to post the line "Well, I kept the old number!" - it's all down to the whim of your local DVLA chappie, but in almost every case the old plate dies with the scrapped car (unless it's a special one, which they re-sell).


Humbug - 18/9/09 at 11:58 AM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
The pinto is big and heavy - but many people have used them very successfully.

BTW: Forget about using the original registration - if you use enough bits from 1 car you might get an age-related plate, but you won't be allowed to keep the old number. Saying that - I'm just waiting for someone to post the line "Well, I kept the old number!" - it's all down to the whim of your local DVLA chappie, but in almost every case the old plate dies with the scrapped car (unless it's a special one, which they re-sell).


If you really want the reg number itself, you need to put it on retention before scrapping it (probably before dismantling it, in case they want to inspect it)


blakep82 - 18/9/09 at 11:59 AM

if you want to keep the sierra reg number, you might be easier to keep the pinto, and switch to zetec or something later.
the pinto's not bad really, but get a lot of stick on here, particulaly from the BEC boys. i think the pinto scares them with their manly ruggedness.

it already fits with your gearbox and clutch, so thats easy for you.
yeah, not a bad engine to start with


wilkingj - 18/9/09 at 12:10 PM

Well...Pinto is a good engine, as said above.

I would shorten and widen the sump (widen to retain the oil capacity).
Look on the web, or search on here, there are enough examples about to get the idea.

As for the Old reg number. If its interesting enough ie valuable.

FIRST change the reg of the Sierra and put the old reg on a retention certificate.

Then get an age related reg for the kit car using the sierra docs.

The once its all up and on the road legally. Transfer the reg off the retention document to the kit.
Its the only way I can see of keeping the original reg.
You cannot transfer the original reg directly from the sierra to the kit car.

Even going by the above route, its not guaranteed to work. But its the only way I can think of.


JeffHs - 18/9/09 at 12:23 PM

As long as the engine is good - no smoke or rattles and looks like it will meet emission regs, keep it, get the car on the road and it's handling sorted, then if you still want more power/bling, change it for something better.

I'm using a 1.6 RS mexico pinto with a fast road cam. It's old it's ugly but it goes very well and makes a glorious noise when opened up - it's good for over 90 in 3rd yet will trickle along at 30 in 4th.

Apart from carbs and a cam change, don't spend any money trying to wring more power out of it. It can be done but it's very expensive and makes no sense compared with a change to a modern engine


SPYDER - 18/9/09 at 12:38 PM

quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
..........and you will also need to find a bellhousing adaptor to mate a rwd gearbox to the Zetec.


We mounted an MT75 directly to a Zetec. Lots of guidance on the web about it.
And the T5.


Geoff.

zetec rwd stuff

[Edited on 18/9/09 by SPYDER]


Mark Allanson - 18/9/09 at 12:50 PM

It fits in a book chassis but it is tight, a McSorley +2 or a Haynes might be easier (cue to builders!).

Why not keep the EFI, very reliable and economical and can be cut down to fit - look at the money you will save on DCOE's Rescued attachment Engine Left.JPG
Rescued attachment Engine Left.JPG


stevec - 18/9/09 at 12:59 PM

has anyone tried the low compression engine fitted to certain Transit vans and Turbo'd/ supercharged it?
Steve.


Mr Whippy - 18/9/09 at 01:56 PM

there's tonnes of turbo pinto stuff on google - one that answers your question -


The "standard" swedish Pinto turbo build is simple. There's really two or three ways depending on power output and reliability.

1. Standard bottom end, preferably with Transit (or any low CR) Pinto pistons (8.2.1). Standard head and cam, custom exhaust manifold, standard Pinto EFI with a bunch of extra injectors. Usually good for 0,6-0,8 bar and 200 bhp - more if reliability is not a concern. Mitsubishi TD04-15/16 turbo (best), T25 or T3.

2. Same bottom end as above, but Megasquirt engine management. Safe at 0,8 bar, usually good to 1,2 bar and using a mildly ported head and fast road cam 300 bhp is very possible. But you need a good turbo, Mitsubishi TD04-16, 18 or 19T, Holset HX30, Garret GT28 or so. Also a decent-good pulse split exhaust manifold and pretty good intercooler.

3. Using Cossie YB pistons and rods (preferably oil pump and spray bar as well but that can be arranged in other ways) and a more worked head, sports cam and you can safely run 1,4-1,5 bar. With a good turbo you will se over 300 bhp.

Engine management is very important, with high boost you need to be able to get the timing working well and the only real way is a mappable system here. The timing is where the power is!

Another key to "our" good results is the pulse split manifolds, IMO, in combination with pretty big turbos to keep exhaust back pressure down. With a smallish turbo and log type manifold you can see exhaust back pressures of 1,5-2 times the boost pressure and that quickly kills off power.



[Edited on 18/9/09 by Mr Whippy]


stevec - 18/9/09 at 02:37 PM

I meant anyone on here, not Google


luke_stephenson - 18/9/09 at 02:41 PM

this is brilliant, so if i chop the sump, i should be able to keep the bonnet height standard? not bothered about the actual reg, just age related would do fine. (for emisions e.t.c)


luke_stephenson - 18/9/09 at 02:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
It fits in a book chassis but it is tight, a McSorley +2 or a Haynes might be easier (cue to builders!).

Why not keep the EFI, very reliable and economical and can be cut down to fit - look at the money you will save on DCOE's


how much power do you get with the EFI though?


speedyxjs - 18/9/09 at 02:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by luke_stephenson
this is brilliant, so if i chop the sump, i should be able to keep the bonnet height standard? not bothered about the actual reg, just age related would do fine. (for emisions e.t.c)


Yep

Just make sure you keep plenty of pics if you want age related.


Mr Whippy - 18/9/09 at 02:56 PM

quote:
Originally posted by stevec
I meant anyone on here, not Google


jpindy3


pajsh - 18/9/09 at 02:57 PM

It's likely you will also need to move the oil filler cap to the back as shown in Marks picture.

If it is your first build then, like me, you may want to keep it simple and not bother with EFi and all sensors & wiring etc.

Also if it's the right age the emmsions test is far easier and you don't need a cat. I guess that does apply to other more modern engines though.

I would probably do a Duratec now but I've learnt alot from the old lump.


blakep82 - 18/9/09 at 03:19 PM

quote:
Originally posted by luke_stephenson
this is brilliant, so if i chop the sump, i should be able to keep the bonnet height standard? not bothered about the actual reg, just age related would do fine. (for emisions e.t.c)


if its emissions, Q plate is surely what you want?

alex omega something or other (theres some numbers after omega) is big on pintos at the minute.


pajsh - 18/9/09 at 03:27 PM

Pnito 2.0 - 3
Pnito 2.0 - 3


nick205 - 18/9/09 at 05:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
Welcome to the madhouse!

Plenty of people are still building with pinto's so i think you should get plenty of good advice from here should you need it.

The main issue with the pinto's is the height but most overcome this issue by shortening the sump.

Should you decide to fit a Zetec, you will still encounter similar problems with the sump and you will also need to find a bellhousing adaptor to mate a rwd gearbox to the Zetec.



Nice avatar


flak monkey - 18/9/09 at 06:04 PM

Mine on injection and megasquirt




Great engines, really bullet proof (7300rpm rev limit on injection engines - 205 block)

Mine was fairly well modded and was somewhere around 160-170bhp. Sounded awsome as it came on cam!

Easily gave 30mpg on injection.

People knock them, but in reality a zetec is only 15kg lighter.

David


omega0684 - 18/9/09 at 06:25 PM

if you are looking for a pinto engine i have just rebuild two! my own and my spare, i run R1 throttle bodies on a semi race head (46mm inlets & 36.1mm exhausts) fully ported. 0.5mm over sized pistons to take it up to a 2.1 ltr, fr32 cam & i also run a shortened sump. i use megasquirt 1 V3 for the ECU and it has given some promising results, i need to get it fully set up on a rolling road but i would say its in the 160-170 bhp area.

here are some pictures


as people have already said they are very strong engines, i think std injection you are looking around 105bhp but that can easily be bulked up with a nice set of bike carbs or throttle bodies

where in our great nation are you? maybe if you put where you are in your profile someone local might let you go round and have a sneaky peak?
HTH's

[Edited on 18/9/09 by omega0684]


dr-fastlane - 18/9/09 at 06:34 PM

You love them or hate them… Like Flak monkey says bullet proof engine. Enough power especially if it’s your first car. Keep the EFI, get the wiring out of the donor car, it’s not that difficult. The EFI is a very simple system.

Check this thread: http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=113932

[Edited on 19/9/09 by dr-fastlane]


lotusmadandy - 18/9/09 at 06:59 PM

As already said the pinto is still a good engine,i have just sold my rebuilt 2 litre
to swap for a zetec.
I used a 1.6 for a year then changed to the 2.0, all in all a great engine and hard to break.

Andy


iank - 18/9/09 at 07:55 PM

quote:
Originally posted by stevec
has anyone tried the low compression engine fitted to certain Transit vans and Turbo'd/ supercharged it?
Steve.


Not quite on here, but this one is in a Dax and makes 185bhp on a turbo.


britishtrident - 23/9/09 at 01:21 PM

The Pinto is almost the worst engine Ford ever built only the 1200 pre-xflo was worse.

It was an obsolete bit of rough old rubbish when it was introduced back in 1970 --- oh the memories of rattling Mk3 Cortinas.


flak monkey - 23/9/09 at 06:15 PM

quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The Pinto is almost the worst engine Ford ever built only the 1200 pre-xflo was worse.

It was an obsolete bit of rough old rubbish when it was introduced back in 1970 --- oh the memories of rattling Mk3 Cortinas.


Obviously never driven a car with a well sorted one in then?

No they arent refined, but they are bombproof and have good performance. Lots of CHEAP tuning parts available as well.


britishtrident - 23/9/09 at 06:29 PM

quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The Pinto is almost the worst engine Ford ever built only the 1200 pre-xflo was worse.

It was an obsolete bit of rough old rubbish when it was introduced back in 1970 --- oh the memories of rattling Mk3 Cortinas.


Obviously never driven a car with a well sorted one in then?

No they arent refined, but they are bombproof and have good performance. Lots of CHEAP tuning parts available as well.


I just remember fleet managers wanting nothing to do with them when it replaced the Essex V4 in the transit --- the fleet managers forced Ford to fit the 1600Xflo in theTransit 75.

I lost count of who many camshaft changes we used to do on Cortina.

The Pinto is crap -- heavy crap.


flak monkey - 23/9/09 at 06:39 PM

Ooo all of 15-20kg heaver than a zetec. a well perpetuated myth that they are massively heavy I am afraid.

Cams are fine as long as you run on good grade oil and keep it changed.


Ninehigh - 24/9/09 at 08:14 PM

Well sounds to me they are pretty standard. Not the lightest, not the smoothest, not the most powerful. There's better around but there's worse too. Sounds pretty middle of the road to me.


RK - 24/9/09 at 09:54 PM

There is nothing for nothing. This seems about the cheapest option around for what it is really. Although brand new Zetecs are not expensive either. The part I like about the Pinto (NO experience with these!!!) is that tons of them are out there and have been put into these cars. That is a very big advantage as far as I am concerned.