hi is there any difference between the old locost chassis book and the new based on the sierra.

lol, yes lots........ the 'new' book is much better written BUT I'm not sure the end product is actually an improvement (ok it's a bit bigger which can be handy). One is based on MK1/2 Escorts, the other Sierra but again I'm not entirely sure that's as much of an advantage as it used to be.....

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Originally posted by D Beddows
lol, yes lots........ the 'new' book is much better written BUT I'm not sure the end product is actually an improvement (ok it's a bit bigger which can be handy). One is based on MK1/2 Escorts, the other Sierra but again I'm not entirely sure that's as much of an advantage as it used to be.....

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It's not really about that it's more the availability of parts..... there are still loads of specialist Escort breakers about because of the rally aspect......no one really cares about old Sierras. OK you can buy Sierra uprights cheaper than you can Cortina ones BUT that's about it..... and tbh it's not really a problem to get your hands on a set of Cortina uprights even now

No, I meant when Caterham had to go away from live, because they couldn't get them new.

BTW, there are three Escort specialists within 5 miles of me!

would sierra parts fit on the old chassis

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No, I meant when Caterham had to go away from live, because they couldn't get them new.

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would sierra parts fit on the old chassis

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Thats the situation I'm in now, ron champion book locost but sierra front hubs and 200sx rear (IRS), it can be done but as with everything, the road less travelled is harder! If you don't have a chassis yet, I would suggest choosing one or the other and building a kit to suit, much simpler.

I think it depends on what you are going to use the car for, cruiser or lightweight racer.

I am building a car to be fast on the track so I'm a bit bias.......but

From what I understand the geometry of all of these wide independant cars (I mean compared to the Westfield they were ripped off from) are wrong for their wheel base due to their use of original length Sierra drive shafts (to keep costs down). Westfield in their wisdom created their wide front end to compensate for this problem and some other 7's have wider front ends than others. These I consider to be 'cruisers'.

The original narrow Westfield SE live axle narrow and wide (and the narrow independent with custom drive shafts )
are thought to be some of the best of breed. The original book being a bad lesson in measuring your mates Westfield means that if built properly with a few simple tweeks the original 'Locost' is the one to build If you want a fast light weight car that can be properly setup and 'work'.

Other points for a Locost are:

Its dead easy to get the parts, I could have built 3 from the parts I spotted on Saturday at Retro Race

The english axle is good for 250 BHP (which is enough for 7 type car unless your just driving in a straight line) and it easy to get ratios for

Loads of backup including bodywork parts and knowledge

People have done it all before and can help you with any problems (I think the site is called www.locostbuilders.co.uk......)

And the most important thing is; I think it looks MUCH better than the Haynes roadster

One thing I would advise is buy a decent chassis unless you are good with a welder

Also TVR's are S**t and I like Schumacher





[Edited on 14/3/10 by hicost blade]

quote:

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Originally posted by hicost blade
I think it depends on what you are going to use the car for, cruiser or lightweight racer.

I am building a car to be fast on the track so I'm a bit bias.......but

From what I understand the geometry of all of these wide independant cars (I mean compared to the Westfield they were ripped off from) are wrong for their wheel base due to their use of original length Sierra drive shafts (to keep costs down). Westfield in their wisdom created their wide front end to compensate for this problem and some other 7's have wider front ends than others. These I consider to be 'cruisers'.

The original narrow Westfield SE live axle narrow and wide (and the narrow independent with custom drive shafts )
are thought to be some of the best of breed. The original book being a bad lesson in measuring your mates Westfield means that if built properly with a few simple tweeks the original 'Locost' is the one to build If you want a fast light weight car that can be properly setup and 'work'.

Other points for a Locost are:

Its dead easy to get the parts, I could have built 3 from the parts I spotted on Saturday at Retro Race

The english axle is good for 250 BHP (which is enough for 7 type car unless your just driving in a straight line) and it easy to get ratios for

Loads of backup including bodywork parts and knowledge

People have done it all before and can help you with any problems (I think the site is called www.locostbuilders.co.uk......)

And the most important thing is; I think it looks MUCH better than the Haynes roadster

One thing I would advise is buy a decent chassis unless you are good with a welder

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quote:

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Originally posted by hicost blade
I think it depends on what you are going to use the car for, cruiser or lightweight racer.

I am building a car to be fast on the track so I'm a bit bias.......but

From what I understand the geometry of all of these wide independant cars (I mean compared to the Westfield they were ripped off from) are wrong for their wheel base due to their use of original length Sierra drive shafts (to keep costs down). Westfield in their wisdom created their wide front end to compensate for this problem and some other 7's have wider front ends than others. These I consider to be 'cruisers'.

The original narrow Westfield SE live axle narrow and wide (and the narrow independent with custom drive shafts )
are thought to be some of the best of breed. The original book being a bad lesson in measuring your mates Westfield means that if built properly with a few simple tweeks the original 'Locost' is the one to build If you want a fast light weight car that can be properly setup and 'work'.

Other points for a Locost are:

Its dead easy to get the parts, I could have built 3 from the parts I spotted on Saturday at Retro Race

The english axle is good for 250 BHP (which is enough for 7 type car unless your just driving in a straight line) and it easy to get ratios for

Loads of backup including bodywork parts and knowledge

People have done it all before and can help you with any problems (I think the site is called www.locostbuilders.co.uk......)

And the most important thing is; I think it looks MUCH better than the Haynes roadster

One thing I would advise is buy a decent chassis unless you are good with a welder

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