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waxoyl

mrwibble - 29/3/10 at 09:35 PM

thanks to those who replied to my paint and rivnut questions, now i need your help again. how much waxoyl am i likely to need to coat the inside of my chassis? does anyone know the diameter of the nozzle on the waxoyl supplied spray gun. currently the biggest holes are m5.

cheers

mookaloid - 29/3/10 at 09:45 PM

not sure I'd worry about that - just put plugs in any open ends.

I can't see any point in adding an extra 2 or 3 Kg to the weight of the car when the steel is so thick it would take years to rust through even if it had a daily exposure to sea water

mangogrooveworkshop - 29/3/10 at 09:47 PM

Aye the other problem is that in the summer it melts and drips out.........

mrwibble - 29/3/10 at 09:49 PM

ok... not overly concerned about 2-3kg when its total weight will be around 550-600kg anyway, i think it will be silly enough as it is... but if you think its not worth the effort, i'm just keen to do the best job i can while i can...

Andybarbet - 29/3/10 at 10:09 PM

Im with Mr Wibble on this one, i am planning on popping a bit in each hole as i drill them, surely its got to limit the rot, the reason im building a kit with a new chassis is because i got tired of cutting rot from classic cars.

Also, some of the guys on here are already dealing with rust issues even after 2 or 3 yeras of weekend use.

Canada EH! - 29/3/10 at 10:30 PM

Make sure all your welding is done before applying any corrosion protection.

Another cheaper alternative is Boiled Linseed Oil, was sprayed into the 4130 alloy fusilage of vintage aircraft, then the fusilage was turned and rolled to coat the interior tubes.

tomprescott - 29/3/10 at 10:33 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Andybarbet
Im with Mr Wibble on this one, i am planning on popping a bit in each hole as i drill them, surely its got to limit the rot, the reason im building a kit with a new chassis is because i got tired of cutting rot from classic cars.

Also, some of the guys on here are already dealing with rust issues even after 2 or 3 yeras of weekend use.

hicost blade - 30/3/10 at 11:54 AM

And it stops any bits of crud/cut off rivet ends rattling inside the tubes....

Brommers - 30/3/10 at 12:36 PM

Get some Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can. Then just give the insides of the tubes a good spray when you drill the rivet holes. Easy. One can will do the whole chassis.

Bluemoon - 30/3/10 at 01:40 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Brommers
Get some Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can. Then just give the insides of the tubes a good spray when you drill the rivet holes. Easy. One can will do the whole chassis.

Yep about 1ltr, I would still by the "big" can of clear waxylo (retangular one forget how many ltrs, 2.5?)..

I mix with with white spirit (~10%) and spray with a paraffin gun on the compressor. I want to get a wax injector/spray kit though to do the tubes (intend doing the kit and our puck caravan).

As to the why bother it will not harm, and I don't want it rusting way either, in my experience the stuff works!

Dan

[Edited on 30/3/10 by Bluemoon]

kb58 - 30/3/10 at 01:52 PM

If the tubes are fully-welded, and the rivets either closed-end or sealed, whatever trapped oxygen gets consumed forming interior surface rust. Once it's consumed, the rust stops advancing. Nothing additional is needed for rust-prevention unless tube ends are left open or open-end rivets used.

Bluemoon - 30/3/10 at 03:14 PM

quote:
Originally posted by kb58
If the tubes are fully-welded, and the rivets either closed-end or sealed, whatever trapped oxygen gets consumed forming interior surface rust. Once it's consumed, the rust stops advancing. Nothing additional is needed for rust-prevention unless tube ends are left open or open-end rivets used.

yes in principle, but there are rivenuts, then also rivets can fret over time causing leaks etc. Thing is how much oxygen do you need to cause rust? Also I would guess if the Oxygen is trapped with a bit of water causes rust, you would then have a partial vacuum drawing in more air+water though very small holes, and thus it would need to be 100% hermetically sealed to stop this....

So I think your correct in principle but in the Uk with the amount of rain+salt on the roads belt and braces would seem a good idea.

zebedee - 30/3/10 at 03:17 PM

I have noticed that rust most often starts or occurs at the welds.
Whether it is due to burning off any oil present, or most likely due to
dissimilarity between the material being welded and the welding stick
I've seen rusting at the weld so many times over the years, I'd always go for the waxoyl option.
If I was a builder that is.

rusty nuts - 30/3/10 at 07:30 PM

Having just spent the winter stripping my car down to the bare chassis, sand blasting and painting it to get rid of the rust forming under the powder coating I don' intend doing it again. I will be adding 2 or 3 kilos to the weight

mrwibble - 30/3/10 at 08:58 PM

hmm dinitrol u say sounds like a good idea, as i'm worried about getting the nozzle in the hole... take that as u like

kb58 - 30/3/10 at 10:11 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Having just spent the winter stripping my car down to the bare chassis, sand blasting and painting it to get rid of the rust forming under the powder coating I don' intend doing it again. I will be adding 2 or 3 kilos to the weight

When you stripped it down, how did the inside of the tubes look?

Bluemoon - 31/3/10 at 04:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Having just spent the winter stripping my car down to the bare chassis, sand blasting and painting it to get rid of the rust forming under the powder coating I don' intend doing it again. I will be adding 2 or 3 kilos to the weight

Yep that;s why I put the waxylo on the outside two to cover any pinholes... Can't harm, clear wyxol looks o.k if you apply with a rag (hence 2.5ltr tin!)..

Kinda wish I had the chassis hot zinc sprayed (about the same cost as powder coating!), but any welding after this is a problem..

Dan

[Edited on 31/3/10 by Bluemoon]