.
All of the tubes used in my chassis have been maked, roughly cut with a hacksaw, ground with an angle grinder and then filed to a neat finish.
It's taking ages, but that's not the problem.
The round tubes, TR3, TR4, TR5 and TR6 are proving tricky. Until now I've been using a combination square to scribe the angles, but obviously
that's no good for marking the round sections. I'd considered making a jig, but that involves buying materials. Has anyone got any better,
cheaper alternatives?
Cheers,
Chris.
quote:
Originally posted by Chris_R
Has anyone got any better, cheaper alternatives?
we use cardboard wrapped round a telescopic tube, then cut the cardboard ( fishmouth ) till it fits, then transfer this to the tube to weld in.
hope this helps
regards
marc
It's not really a fish mouth as the round tubes are welded to flat surfaces, but it's worth noting for Ron's buggy. I intend to build
one for my son (when he's old enough).
On reflection i should have prolly used box section, but i've already got the 19MM tube. I'd planned to do the luggage compartment at the
same time.
[Edited on 12/6/04 by Chris_R]
[Edited on 12/6/04 by Chris_R]
Cut it as close as you can and bodge it with a fat weld .
If i start to run out of tube I might have to. I like the ali cover on your steering column. Do you have any close-ups?
Chris try THIS. You need to down load the file. It's from the Aus locost builders site.
All the best Dan.
that's a clever bit ok kit.
The cover was an offcut from the bonnet bent round as an afterthought to cover the wires behind the column. I've moved the column since then and
it's different now. The new bit is painted black (deluxe model
) to match the dash. Close enough anyway . If you cut the tube a little bit
long and leave the ends at the angle to fit to the FU and the upright, then file or grind a bit off the inside of the angle they tap in tight. Do all
the others in square tube, 1" or 3/4" it's easier
[Edited on 13/6/04 by Peteff]
Cheers guys. Managed to find some scrap in my dads garage so went for the jig. Angles were perfect, but sadly slightly off-set around the circumfrence, so added a fat weld too.
I used 25mm box myself as the consensus was that 19mm round wasn't strong enough, especially as in my case I am using a slightly heavier
engine.
Anyway, you seem to have it sorted now.
Cheers,
Craig.
if i hadn't already got the steel i would have. Seems strange that it's round in the book anyway. Still, when i learn to TIG weld an start to build the next ali one, i'll do it with box section.
Chris,
Sorry to stick my nose in and as I have no idea of your level of knowledge on this subject I hope I am not patronising here but...
I recall a thread about using aluminium for chassis building and the lasting impression I had was that it was not an easy task and generally not worth
the hassle. By not listing the specifics I risk being accused of scaremongering but in fact I just want to make you aware so that you can satisfy
yourself that it is viable.
I have no doubts that it can be done but I don't think it was as simple as just using aluminium tubing instead of steel. I think there may have
been concerns over work hardening and premature fatigue fracturing but I'm guessing now.
Anyway, good luck with the rest of your build!
Cheers,
Craig.
An ally chassis would be fine as long as you can remove all flexing. That means using all of cymtriks recommendations and a few more besides. The resulting chassis would probably be heavier than the steel equivalent, more expensive and would take an age to make
Mark,
So I was right that it had something to do with fatigue albeit not due to work hardening? On second thoughts the work hardening issue might have been
to do with Cromoly or Stainless chassis'.
Aren't there particular alloys of aluminium which are more suitable or is aluminium fundamentally problematic for this application?
Cheers,
Craig.
just seemed the next logical step to move to ali. Already thinking about the next and the first is barely underway.