Hi guys and gals,

I'm now saving for a Raw Striker chassis pack. Plan is to build the car in stages over a period of time. I don't have any mechanical knowledge so I know there'll be frustration aplenty, but will be a great way to learn the ropes. Spec will be as follows: IRS, 13" wheels, 2.3 Duratec engine, Type 9 heavy duty 'box, classic style aeroscreen, satin black paint (and a lot of other stuff).

I'll be calling on the collective help of you all an awful lot I imagine, and I'll be joining my nearest kit car group. (I'm in Goole, East Yorks, so will be the Northen Roadsters I imagine. I've met them all before a couple of times and they're great guys).

First question is, are there any jobs that you wouldn't tackle as a complete virgin? Raw do mention on their website that they're happy to do some of the work. Panel cutting and bending springs to mind.

Oh and if you think this is biting off more than I'm likely to chew, do say so!!

Tim

You only need a basic mechanical knowledge to build a kit car. The will to build one, desire and determination are much more important attributes. You've already found the bestest resource on the world wide web, so you're in good company. Crack on!

Phil

I agree just get stuck in, the most important thing is to measure and then measure again. spend the time looking at where things are going before you put/fix them in.

Buying a proper kit makes sense. I built a locost which was no where near as easy as seemingly nothing fitted straight on.

Buy a reasonable set of tools, set aside a very very large amount of time, buy a big whiteboard to track your jobs and rough times to complete (means you can walk into garage and do one or two 10 minute jobs in a spare half an hour without spending 15 mins rubbing your chin trying to decide what you have time to do)

My first build was an old Robin Hood monocoque, I didn't even know what it was until I got it home.
If I can build one of those and get it through SVA (2008) anyone can build a kit car.
Join a local club, can't beat it
Ask on here but don't necessarily take the first answer.
When it comes to cutting holes in panels measure twice cut once, cutting templates out of cardboard is also a very good idea.
Keep all reciepts
Take loads of photos

Well that's good cos I have lots of desire and determination. Thanks for all the replies!

Regarding the 13" wheels, I spoke to Raw at Stoneleigh last year about this. They suggested I fit 15" wheels but said 13s could be done with rose-jointed suspension. What does this mean?

Tim

I'd echo the other comments just get stuck in, and dont be afraid of asking questions, particularly "does anything else need to go here" to save doing things, then having to move them later.

Rose jointed suspension uses rose joint in place of ball joints. They are more slim line.

A rose joint

And so why does this type of joint allow for 13" wheels where the ball joint would not? Is it because of fouling on the brake assembly?

BTW just off out for badminton match so won't reply till late on...

I'd guess it's clearance on the ball joint on the steering arm rather than the upright, and the interference would probably be with the wheel.

With 13" wheels if you want a decent size disk you will probably need relatively slim calipers such as Willwood, Hi-spec etc.

What is your logic for going for the 13s? The benefit of 13s is cheaper trackday type tyres, and slightly less unsprung mass. Lightweight 15s hardly make any difference to ride/handling as long as the tyres dont have a massive load rating which leads to stiff sidewalls, and road type tyres are cheaper.

the later strikers are designed for 15 wheels and to fit 13 you need to change the rear wishbones. be very care full here as I have been told the rose joint on these wish bones are a week point. My brother was going to change from 15 to 13 on his but decided against it due to this issue.

quote:

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Originally posted by Tim Watson
And so why does this type of joint allow for 13" wheels where the ball joint would not? Is it because of fouling on the brake assembly?

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Why not build it as they designed it. Then if you want to change it from that then do so.


I only say this because going down your own path will extend the build time and add cost and risk.
In my case I went down my own route and enjoyed the journey, but I wouldn't recommend it.
But its your build.


14 inch wheels might be a painless compromise between 15 and 13. I know 13's are a struggle on Phoenix, but 14's are easy. You can get all the good tyres in the 14inch size too.


Matt

I wouldn't want to risk suspension failing - especially in this sort of car - so you've convinced me. The reason I would like 13s is just from a handling point of view, in that most people say 13s give a more progressive breakaway. Most of the Caterham lot say dont go for anything else. I guess 14s would be similar though.

Raw had a similar attitude to my wanting to fit a Duratec engine. They said it's not able to be fitted towards the left of the engine bay as they like to do. But I'm sure I've read on here that that's not the case. Would really like to fit a Duratec if poss cos I can start off with a fairly lowly state of tune and then upgrade as and when, without having to change whole installation etc. It's also so torquey that it will go with the Type 9 5-speed and mean I wouldn't be shelling out on a Caterham 6-speed box or something.

The only other area where I have questions is over paintwork. Would love to paint the whole car satin black. So I guess this would involve having the bare fibreglass body panels sprayed, and then the aluminium panels sprayed the same colour. I've wondered why so many Strikers have bare ali side panels and thought that it might be cos of difficulty in spraying ali or something???

Tim

they started to cover the ally sides but I have grp side on my car so no alloy to keep clean.

Morning Tim,
There are a few good questions here. 13s are as you say desirable in CateringVan circles, they are lighter. That said a lot of people favour 14s for touring, on a 185/60 or 70 you get a good ride quality, a bit more clearance and the tyres are light enough and cheap enough. The thing that doesn't work is the current vogue for 18" wheels with 35 profile rubber bands in a ridiculous section, but 15 isn't a mile off.

As others have said, do take the advice of the manufacturer. If they say they favour an engine because it makes the installation easier, believe them. You say you have set your heart on a Dura, well and good. If it's hard work though it's hard work, and costly. A mate had a 226 bhp Dura 2.0 built, it was over £5k. That's a piece of money. Meanwhile a black top Zetec with 160-odd out of the box is yours new for £700. Used they are far less. Bear in mind the existing injection and ECU can be persuaded to work, and you're away. A couple of hundred on tasty manifolds, maybe a cam, gets you very close to a Dura's performance for a fraction of the price. Factor in an easier build and I know what I'd choose.

As others say I wouldn't worry aboyut what you can and can't do. As the project goes on you'll gain skills and confidence so stuff you can't contemplate now will be easy. Also, good plan to join a club. A helping hand from one who has been there is invaluable. The fact that you have chosen a kit is a bonus, it means you aren't reinventing the wheel every 2 minutes as the work has been done.

Oh and there is no problem painting ally, you just need an ally primer. People leave it unpainted to give themselves something to polish when they can't work out how to fix the latest mechanical fault.

I am fitting 13s on my striker and it does depend on the wheels you fit some give more clearance than others, but some mods are required to make them fit, bit of a pain but all possible,

I am running a 1.8 k series and 6 speed cater ham box with jenny throttle bodies, vvc piper conversion, it's got around, 160 bhp, and is in at the moment for head work and some other goodies to get me a very nice 215 bhp min, cost wise mmm around 500 for all the head work, and pistons 600 ish etc, so not too bad, and you can pick up STD vvc engines 160 bhp for peanuts these days,

Also has the advantage of being very light engine, just my 2 pence worth good luck with the choice you make there a good car,

Sean

Just out of interest INDY is your car axle or independent?

IRS rear end,

I have the caterham super light alloys,

Thanks

Thanks guys,

Dopdog, didn't know you could get grp sides. Are these a new thing from Raw?

Indy Bird, what mods are you making to fit 13" wheels? I was thinking last night that 14s will be fine, but just out of interest like...

Can't wait to crack on and start building now. I'm booked to go and drive a couple of Strikers round Llandow with the guys from Raw on May 26th. Been for a few passenger rides in Strikers and driven a Fulcrum on the road. They do handle nicely don't they?

Tim

Hub mods Rose joints used and half bolt used on bottom wishbone mount it's close ie only about 4 mm clearance but good enough I think

Thanks good luck

Hi

Wheels, the choice really depends where it's going to spend most of it's life - Road then go for 15's (Caterham multi spoke are the lightest single piece as far as I know) as that'll give you a nice choice of rubber, BUT if it's going to see lots of track work then go for 13's as that's where the real performance tyres can be had.

The difference in handling is dramatic, on a track, when changing from 15's (with performance road tyres) to 13's (with the same tyres) - You should be able to tell the difference instantly - if it's set up right and certainly a stop watch would illuminate it..
(we used to have to Run 1A's in hillclimbs and sprints - eg high ish performance road rubber such as A539's and tried 13's and 15's and ended up on the later to get a better choice of tyre - as soon as the class swapped to 1B's -Toyo R888 or now Avon ZZR A24's - the class pretty much all swapped back to 13's)


Engine - price up dry sump kits and work backwards - if you track it you'll need one (learnt that lesson the hard way) so find out what's available for what engine and go for one that's got the best £'s per pony IMHO.
As long as it's got somewhere north of 150bhp it'll go like a stabbed rat anyway.

HTH

There's a lot of sense there, people always think they need 200bhp, truth is unless you are very experienced on track or suicidal on the road you won't use it. I used to have 130bhp in my Caterham, it used to scare the living s**t out of me whenever I unleashed everything and went for the redline. Every bloke I ever had in the passenger seat used to grin and shake his head, most women would be genuinely scared. This was in a straight line. Corners are another thing, one of my mates has a favourite story that we were blatting through the countryside approaching a roundabout, he thought "He'll brake in a bit. He's leaving it late. Brake. BRAKE!" I of course knew it would go round without braking, so I just kept my foot in. I should point out that I'm a distinctly average driver, so get a 7 type car on a track in expert hands and you won't believe what it will do, even with "only" 130-150 bhp.

The k series id a cracking engine choice too, now the head gasket troubles are fixed it will see you right for the lifetime of the car.