Hi to all,
I'm finishing to completely strep down the chassis of my Fury Fireblade IRS to repaint it and weld a crack on it. Having the bare chassis
available does it worth to weld some more tubes to strengthen known week points, if any?
Thank you in advance for any contribution.
Maxx
If you could post a pick of the crack location I think we could offer some better advice.
Standard or lightweight chassis?
Common one is either top rail behind rocker or from top cross member where the diagonal from the side top meets it. Detachable brace across the rear
end of the rocker bolts cures.
The front corners are a known weak spot on early cars - I welded in a few extra tubes to add a bit of lateral stiffness in the front
The rack brackets are also welded to these new tubes .
Another thing I found on my car was the ally paneling along the top of the transmission tunnel had all been moving , leaving the rivet holes slotted -
so I added a deep gusset at each end of the tunnel
heres mine http://locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/page82_2.jpg
[Edited on 23/1/15 by Dopdog]
quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
The front corners are a known weak spot on early cars - I welded in a few extra tubes to add a bit of lateral stiffness in the front
The rack brackets are also welded to these new tubes .
Another thing I found on my car was the ally paneling along the top of the transmission tunnel had all been moving , leaving the rivet holes slotted - so I added a deep gusset at each end of the tunnel
quote:
Originally posted by philw
quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
The front corners are a known weak spot on early cars - I welded in a few extra tubes to add a bit of lateral stiffness in the front
The rack brackets are also welded to these new tubes .
Another thing I found on my car was the ally paneling along the top of the transmission tunnel had all been moving , leaving the rivet holes slotted - so I added a deep gusset at each end of the tunnel
Am I being a total numpty here, or is it the photo, but, have you not blocked off your lower shock mounts with that extra bracing?
Rear wishbone lower pickup points.
On the lightweight chassis anyway. Mine went. Jim's went. There are others as well
As hobbsy says light weight chassis (from KitCarWorkshop era) had issues with rear wishbone mounts (weldermans car was another). Later ones had webs
welded to the mount to spread the load (and I think thicker tube section having drilled mine to fit a towing boss).
You can just see one of the webs on mine in this photo...
[URL=http://s189.photobucket.com/user/adrianthorp/media/fury091.jpg.html]
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RL]
@liam.mccaffrey:
the crack is hightlighted in yellow:
@adithorp:
It's a lightweight of 2001.
Could you please indicate where are the welded webs?
It seems that some job on the chassis was already done by the previous owner by adding some reinforcement plates hightlighted in blue.
With red lines some braces I'm thinking to add if it's confirmed it worth.
quote:
Originally posted by clairetoo
The front corners are a known weak spot on early cars - I welded in a few extra tubes to add a bit of lateral stiffness in the front
The rack brackets are also welded to these new tubes .
Another thing I found on my car was the ally paneling along the top of the transmission tunnel had all been moving , leaving the rivet holes slotted - so I added a deep gusset at each end of the tunnel
Think those repairs are the classic crack zones (inc' the new crack) if the rocker isn't fitted with a removable rear brace on the rocker
arm.
The rear mounting break like this (last post in thread)...
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=142033&page=2
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Think those repairs are the classic crack zones (inc' the new crack) if the rocker isn't fitted with a removable rear brace on the rocker arm.
The rear mounting break like this (last post in thread)...
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=142033&page=2
quote:
Originally posted by MadMaxx
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Think those repairs are the classic crack zones (inc' the new crack) if the rocker isn't fitted with a removable rear brace on the rocker arm.
The rear mounting break like this (last post in thread)...
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=142033&page=2
Sorry Adithorp, but the thread seems to be empy...
Yeah me too empty
Description
Heres one more for you of the bracing on my car
Some pics from Rob Collingridge site FuryR1. Is this another weak area in the chassis?:
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by MadMaxx
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Think those repairs are the classic crack zones (inc' the new crack) if the rocker isn't fitted with a removable rear brace on the rocker arm.
The rear mounting break like this (last post in thread)...
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=142033&page=2
Sorry Adithorp, but the thread seems to be empy...
Odd. Just clicked the link and went straight to it.
Yeah that's what I had, not quite as bad as that but it was on it's way.
Since being beefed up by Procomp it's been all good touch wood.
They spotted it during geo, Ivan's words still ring in my head "Oh no! the chassis has gone!" - for a moment made me think it was far
worse than just the pick up. Part of reason I took it in for geo was I suspected had more neg camber that I remember and seeing the damage (not
easily spotted from the underneath) it all made sense!
JimG accelerated the demise of his by getting some air whilst giving a pax ride in France if I recall 
Not seen that one before but not suprised given the way it's been designed there (mine is different being a Freelander diff). I think Robs is one of the KitCarWorkshop chassis with thin tubes.
Mine was also beefed up around this area as before I had it the diff tried to escape the car!
The other point raised by Procomp is that the 18 gauge lightweight chassis actually measured closer to 20 gauge. But part of this may be that steel
is sold right on the very tolerance nowadays?
s