Just contemplating the best and easiest way to re-panel my striker chassis. I've kept all the old alloy panels and was planning on using them as
templates to cut out some new ones and more importantly drill them so the holes match up with the holes in the chassis.
I suppose the other option is to get someone else (not done any welding before) to weld up all the old holes in the chassis then start a fresh fitting
new panels and drilling some new holes.
[Edited on 1/11/15 by cfc999]
[Edited on 1/11/15 by cfc999]
[Edited on 1/11/15 by cfc999]
Or bond them all on
I looked into buying material and cutting it myself but in the end buying panels already cut from Martin at Raw was far easier and not that much dearer!!
If reusing the old holes then accurately marking the new panel is difficult. Someone posted (a good while ago) a picture or link of a special tool for marking existing chassis holes on new panel. A good search through old threads might find it.
The tool is basically a strip of metal with another bit of metal bar welded through it. The bar is the exact size of the rivet hole with a pointy end. Pit the rod non pointy end in the chassis hole, ali over the top and tap lightly. Hey presto one mark of where you need to drill.
Thanks guys. I've seen the tool you mentioned. What do people think of welding up the hole as a possible solution.
When I last looked on the Raw website I think a new set of panels was around £300 mark which seemed pretty steep or is that about right. Not sure how
much big sheets of alloy are. I do have access to a industrial guillotine.
about £40 for a sheet of 1.2/1.5mm 8"x4" is what i paid i think
I've repaneled mine.
I reused the floor panels, transmission tunnel and bulkhead - I had these cleaned and powder coated and these are fine.
I made new side panels as the others were damaged. A sheet of ali cost me £40. I used the originals as templates and they worked out ok.
The side panels share the same rivets / holes as the floor panels underneath so these are easy to drill (just fix the floor panels on thee sides).
I have a handful of rivet holes to drill in the side panels (they're still off as it's easier to do all the other jobs without them);
I'll use the two hacksaw blade trick probably.
I'm not very good with my hands but the repaneling has worked out better than I thought I could achieve. The car will be raced not showed
though!
Regards
Wyn
Description
Description
In order to save me a bit of time I got Fisher Cars to supply and cut my panels + fit the sides and floor. I have since drilled and fitted the rear
bulkhead and the transmission side panels are ready to fit and its not difficult providing you take your time and measure everything at least
twice!
Some of my chassis rails had been welded up by the previous owner before re-powder coating and some not. If you get a pop rivet, crimp it hard so the
center part is stuck in place and then cut off the center part where it comes out the rivet leaving a point you can use a handful of these dropped in
any existing holes to mark the new panel prior to drilling (that probably doesn't make sense so I will take a picture later). I then used a
center drill on the panel (a normal drill bit will move about so get one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/centre-drill) and finished off with the correct size drill bit
Having marked and drilled my transmission tunnel panels to fit the current holes I now might re-do them all in carbon sheet as I have some and feel
the need for a bit more tarty'ness
you should re-use the existing holes.
- drilling new holes leaving the existing ones will weaken the chassis
- welding the existing holes will also slightly weaken the chassis
- if existing holes are welded and if during fitting the new panels & drilling new holes you will need to drill through a weld, this might become
awkward, as the weld will be harder than the steel of the chassis.
imo, anything else than using existing holes is botchery.