Going to be picking up a 8x4 sheet of wood to start my chassis, any advice on what type of wood is the most rigid? (My workbench is 6x3 and don't
want the board sagging at the edges)
Thanks
Craig
I guess maybe 2 thick sheets of MDF
Your better off building a frame out of 4x2 to go over your workbench and screw a thick pice of MDF on top.
MDF it is then, thanks
Rigid wood will be expensive, heavy and not necessarily flat. As mentioned, you're better off with a thinner sheet of MDF reinforced with 4x2.
i used frame made from cls timber . (roughly 4x2 but finished and square) then i put a sheet of 12mm finished ply on top. the finished ply allows for
drawing out by pencil as you go.
beware of mdf if you dampness in your workshop it will flop in days
home from hols now craig if you want a nose, also should get bodywork tomorrow
[Edited on 9/8/16 by hizzi]
I don't like MDF, it suffers badly if it gets damp, and although the surface is hard (usually, not always) once that is damaged it is soft and
flaky under.
Exterior/WBP ply is much better.
If you want a strong rigid platform, how about making a box up? The 38x63CLS timber is well priced. Top made of 9 or 12mm ply, the bottom thin stuff.
$ lengths of CLS, with a piece across the top and bottom. Sounds complicated, but would be quick and easy to make. Glued and nailed, it would be VERY
rigid.
I agree with all above it is a good idea to get the board as solid as you can, the heat from the weld can cause distortion!!
I did mine with a 8x4 sheet + 2 8x2 sheets on top which gave a nice permanent centreline. Made a frame from steel box section. Just happened to have
the materials at the time
. Re-used them when finished though.
For a flat and rigid build surface, use a cheap fire door, they are solid wood, straight and very strong .
8' x 4' sheet of 1/4" ply then show it a picture of Suzi Perry. That will make it stiff enough. (or it would in my garage anyway!!!)
quote:
Originally posted by myke pocock
8' x 4' sheet of 1/4" ply then show it a picture of Suzi Perry. That will make it stiff enough. (or it would in my garage anyway!!!)
When I made my chassis I used a combination of three things.
Measuring every diagonal and comparing it with its opposite one at tack up.
I bought a 6m length of 50mm box and clamping it down the centre of the chassis while welding it.
( Imagine a hog roast, revolving on a spit. )
Made a pair of trestles with it afterwards.
Weld in sequence. Do a weld, weld its opposite, another, then its opposite, etc etc.
Welding on a table means you weld all the tops, then at some stage have to unclamp it and weld all the bottoms. ( = banana )
HTH
Paul G
Cls won't be perfectly straight. I'd use 50mm box section myself, with 9mm ply on top.