Hi, am about 70% through making my chassis, a mid engine car, not a locost.
Will be putting some bolted chassis joints into the rear section so the gearbox and engine can be removed as a complete assembly, and to generally aid
access.
Work with a lot of marine stuff in work, so naturally thought stainless would be a decent material, just to keep the area rust free, where paint
can't really be added or it would get worn off.
But maybe it would be a good idea for other mounts, the shock mounts, bellcrank mounts. Too late for the wishbone tabs.
These are my proposed tube joints...
it's this X-shaped part I plan to have removable
interestingly stainless' properties don't differ that greatly from regular steel (cromo would be a different story...)
http://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/AISI-316-1.4401-1.4436-S31600-Stainless-Steel/SAE-AISI-1018-G10180-Carbon-Steel
my 2p - Galvanized is better, using good quality steel and galvanising will protect the part and the adjacent steel work. Stainless may introduce
galvanic corrosion and is typically of a lower yield strength than mild steel.
hth
Personally i would use mild steel galvanised bolts to stop them picking up. The last thing you want is a thread picked up/seized.
Could cover everything in copper slip but still no guarantee they will not pick up
My Stainless steel chassis is now 12 years old and still as good as when i built it, never been repaired and has not a speck of rust on it.
how could one galvanise after welding, anyone with experience of cold galvanising?
Would it wear off if there's slight movement?
Have tweaked the design so it's a mechanical 'hook', the bolt only serves to hold it together as should take no shearing load
Yes stainless on stainless fixings are often not pleasant.
Galvanic corrosion I don't think it an issue, they'd be welded together and the mild steel painted anyway
That looks a lot better when i was looking at the first photo i was thinking it should have a hook fixing
Jacko
Thanks yeah definitely the right way to do it I think!