I have had a good search and read on here and there is a lot of conflicting info, soooooooo, I thought I would muddy the water and ask again!
I have striped all the parts off of the back end and I will be peeling off the powdercoat where it has lifted. Some of the rust, although only
surface, has got into the corners and will be a pain to fully remove.
3 questions:
1 - In this modern day world, is there a recommended paint or primer that can go onto relatively clean rust patches?!?
I would rather brush on, spray paint is just a compromise in my eyes.
2 - what ever primer and paint you recommend for above must be stable against petrol. The Hammerite I used before lifted once in contact with
petrol.
3 - before the above is applied I need to decrease and clean it all. Any suggestions that will cut through all of the grease and grime without making
things worse?
Cheers all.
Reading on Frost's website POR15 due appear to be what I am looking for. About 50quid should get me a degreaser, prep, primer and paint.
POR15 was also mentioned on a good few posts on here as well. Only problem is that I don't want 2 pack paint. I just want to shake pop a lid and
paint.
POR15 is good stuff. I redid my chassis quite a few years ago and it's still solid. Only place it's had an issue is where I spilled brake
fluid in it.
It does fade to a hazy black/grey under UV though so if you use it for external bits like wishbones you may want to top coat it.
It's all pop and brush, not 2 pack. I used the metal prep etc which is an acid based bare metal primer.
The latest recommendations from POR is that you have to use a tie-coat primer on top of the POR15 (the stuff avaiable in the tiny cans) before top
coating - which personally was more faff than I had hoped for...
But that said, I painted my chassis with POR15 about 3 years ago, and within a couple of days sprayed it with POR Blackcote - without a tie-coat
primer - and on the whole the coverage and adhesion of the paint seems to have been good - just a couple of 1cm sq spots where the paint has peeled.
I need to touch up various bumps and scrapes (e.g. inside the engine bay) - and intend to scuff up the existing paint and go over with something like
this: http://www.diy.com/departments/fortress-black-gloss-metal-paint-750-ml/127964_BQ.prd
You can use Polymeric Rust Converter.
There are a couple of brands.
HTH.
Another +1 for PoR15. Little tip, make sure you decant what you need into another jar. Don’t wipe your brush around the lid and the reveal - it will
just stick the lid shut and you will never get to the spare 1/2 tin you have left.
Ask me how I know ......
quote:
Originally posted by Barkalarr
Another +1 for PoR15. Little tip, make sure you decant what you need into another jar. Don’t wipe your brush around the lid and the reveal - it will just stick the lid shut and you will never get to the spare 1/2 tin you have left.
Ask me how I know ......
I bought a chassis that had been painted with por 15, tried to remove some paint to weld a bracket on, gave up with Mr angry grinder and had to use a
wood chisel, it is super tough.
quote:
Originally posted by theconrodkid
I bought a chassis that had been painted with por 15, tried to remove some paint to weld a bracket on, gave up with Mr angry grinder and had to use a wood chisel, it is super tough.
I have also used POR15 on a previous project chassis. It dries with no brush strokes which gives a nice finish. As said above though the paint left in the tin will go off very quickly. The trick here is to put some cling film over the tin before refitting the lid. It gives an airtight seal and you can use it many times each time using fresh cling film. I did this and my tin lasted a good 12 months.
POR 15 seems to have a good backing but it is also amazing how split some opinions are.
I guess it is all in the prep and application. As it always is with paint.
I must be better than the bubbling rust coated frame that I have at the moment!!
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
POR 15 seems to have a good backing but it is also amazing how split some opinions are.
I guess it is all in the prep and application. As it always is with paint.
I must be better than the bubbling rust coated frame that I have at the moment!!
there are some rust-remover gel´s on the market..this would be my 1st step.
than apply whatever chassis-paint you will find. ..or por15..
Rust Bullet is really good stuff, but it's silver and needs a top coat over it.
They also do a really good acid etch prep cleaner for pre cleaning.
I have been using POR15. I'll do a full write up and review once I have finished the work.
I'm going to do the same, so very interested in process and results.
I've used Por 15 a few times and always used their metal prep first
Good stuff but don't get it on your skin 
Tried the cling film trick but sadly the remaining paint still went off in the can, It came out as a solid lump and tried breaking it up with a hammer
but didn't have much luck, so its pretty tough stuff
It doesn't like sticking to a 'polished' metal surface though..
quote:
Originally posted by perksy
I've used Por 15 a few times and always used their metal prep first
Good stuff but don't get it on your skin
Tried the cling film trick but sadly the remaining paint still went off in the can, It came out as a solid lump and tried breaking it up with a hammer but didn't have much luck, so its pretty tough stuff
It doesn't like sticking to a 'polished' metal surface though..
I was out there again tonight preparing half shafts and uprights for a re coat. They are not in bad condition, the powder coating has lasted well in
places, I'm doing this mainly to make sure they are protected and give the whole rear end a fresh look while it is a part.
It sounds silly but taking thing apart and prepping then for paint makes you spend longer looking at them, this makes you double check that everything
is good and proper. A side effect I never considered before but has already helped me find things I would not of spotted with just a quick clean.
Cling film has not worked for me either. I'm going to have to smash through a thick skin which has set to get to the liquid underneath.
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le...
Cling film has not worked for me either. I'm going to have to smash through a thick skin which has set to get to the liquid underneath.
I have to say I'm not a fan of powder coat (even less of Hammerite). I've used just a simple oil-based (ie white spirit soluble) red oxide paint (onto very clean metal, abraded with emery cloth). I've then degreased the metal with panel wipe. Anyway, red oxide, followed by undercoat, followed by a good quality gloss black (Johnstons, Dulux maybe) All brushed on, and it's always stayed good.
I'm not keen on powder coat either - it always seems to get rust under it.
My garage has a steel roof structure that I sanded and painted straight over the rust with gray POR 15.
I can confirm that it goes mat if left in the sun which is a pest but the result is good and does seem to last well
I would take a lot of persuading to use anything else.
I plan to use it on my Westfield chassis and on an old Lotus Elan chassis.
It really is nice stuff.
It's also nice to use by brush
One of the classic mags did a long term test of paints and POR15 did ok, but wasn't the best. I'll have a hunt to see if i can find the article.
found it...
link below but POR15 over 3 years did worse than i'd remembered. The winner was rust buster epoxy mastic.
http://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk_0.pdf
They also have a guide to painting which i've not read but may be useful.
http://www.rust.co.uk/3-treating-rust-the-rustbuster-way/t20
Tried most things on the market and most found wanting. Good preparation is key.
A quality degreaser, then prep with Por15 Metal Prep (creates a zinc phosphate coating on the surface) then paint with Steel-It 1002 or 1012
This stuff is the best I’ve found. http://www.steel-it.com/polyurethane-stainless-steel-coatings-10
http://www.steel-it.com/automotive-applications-of-steel-it-5
http://www.steel-it.com/images/documents/steel-it-off-road-brochure.pdf
[Edited on 19/1/19 by atomic]
quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
One of the classic mags did a long term test of paints and POR15 did ok, but wasn't the best. I'll have a hunt to see if i can find the article.
Painted my chassis with screwfix red oxide undercoat 2 coats. Then 2/3 coats of Homebase exterior black gloss. 13/14 years on and it's still
good.
quote:
Painted my chassis with screwfix red oxide undercoat 2 coats. Then 2/3 coats of Homebase exterior black gloss. 13/14 years on and it's still good.
Thanks for those updates - that's a decision made for me.
Now what prep did you do? wire brush on the drill / angry grinder? degrease (with what) and then paint?
Or something different?
Degrease is a concern for me as when I got the steel 20 years ago I sprayed wd40 on it to ensure it didn't rust immediately.
(it didn't!)
One product that keeps appearing in Land Rover world is Buzzweld. They've done some comparisons against other major brands (including those used underwater for oil rigs etc.) - they have numerous products, and the chap who runs it is very helpful and knowledgeable. I've used POR15 products in the past and been happy, but only limited to one product from Buzzweld (that I'm also very happy with). Worth asking the question to him, if nothing else....