6 years on and still ok.
Hamerite should be renamed Hamershite , I have never come across a paint so brittle
Have to do a major repainting job on my jester all the underneath back axle roll bars is this stuff any good
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/vht-epoxy-black-chassis-and-rollbar-paint-aerosol
Have made a start with hamrite on the back drums but it doesn't seem to be the most of hard wearing paints but looked to start with
:
Is this stuff above any better
Had a look at other stuff on the same site Por15 that seems to get dearer as you go
getting on for around £70.00 for one can of spray & one small tin of rust inheabeater
[Edited on 6/7/19 by jester]
I painted everything with Upol etch primer and generic black rattle cans.
6 years on and still ok.
Hamerite should be renamed Hamershite , I have never come across a paint so brittle
on my (well used ) spitfire I used upol etch primer, stonechip and then std chassis black paint, which is a synthetic paint so stays a bit flexible
etc.
Not sure what I would use on brake drums? some sort of high temp paint. (MANY MANY years ago I bought a litre of heat resistant paint from B+Q, it was
fantastic stuff and I used it on suspension, engines everything, lasted brilliantly but not seen it again)
I used Hammerite smooth on the underside of an old classic mini. Then made the mistake of trying to put stone chip paint over that. It all slid off
like it was toasted cheese. Left the primer in perfect condition.
If you want to do the job once and forget, I would go with the POR 15. £70 is not bad if you never have to do it again imho.
Hammershite is dreadful stuff, it will not stay on anything, and comes off in sheets
I was told by a car restorer place to use a good household black gloss over an etch primer, and that's what I did, and its still on my car 23
years later, and some has even survived the recent fire!
steve,
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I painted everything with Upol etch primer and generic black rattle cans.
6 years on and still ok.
Hamerite should be renamed Hamershite , I have never come across a paint so brittle
Etch primer should ideally be used on clean metal. It's acid base means it "bites" into the bare metal to make a stronger bond. If you
spray over existing paint or primer it will attempt to eat through the existing paint and leave a finish that might be flaky or brittle.
This is my take on it, others might say they have used it with success but I would take it back to bare steel.
quote:
Originally posted by steve m
Hammershite is dreadful stuff, it will not stay on anything, and comes off in sheets
Luckily I have only done the back drums then if it's that bad .I have seen that happen on a video of Por15 in the states he had placed it straight on to rust with out cleaning it down does seem very dear for all the stuff you need to buy just to paint a bit of metal
On a different note sorry to hear about your car
I was told by a car restorer place to use a good household black gloss over an etch primer, and that's what I did, and its still on my car 23 years later, and some has even survived the recent fire!
steve,
quote:
Originally posted by harmchar
Etch primer should ideally be used on clean metal. It's acid base means it "bites" into the bare metal to make a stronger bond. If you spray over existing paint or primer it will attempt to eat through the existing paint and leave a finish that might be flaky or brittle.
This is my take on it, others might say they have used it with success but I would take it back to bare steel.
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
on my (well used ) spitfire I used upol etch primer, stonechip and then std chassis black paint, which is a synthetic paint so stays a bit flexible etc.
Not sure what I would use on brake drums? some sort of high temp paint. (MANY MANY years ago I bought a litre of heat resistant paint from B+Q, it was fantastic stuff and I used it on suspension, engines everything, lasted brilliantly but not seen it again)
Hammerite used to be quality, sadly now its crap.
As said above a decent etch primer and household gloss will do the trick. Or go one better and use POR15.
All depends on your budget, but either will work fine.
Jay
Do a search on here ,this question has been asked umpteen times .
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Do a search on here ,this question has been asked umpteen times .
quote:
Originally posted by J666AYP
Hammerite used to be quality, sadly now its crap.
As said above a decent etch primer and household gloss will do the trick. Or go one better and use POR15.
All depends on your budget, but either will work fine.
Jay
quote:
Originally posted by jester
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Do a search on here ,this question has been asked umpteen times .
I have seen one other post on here.
But it's worth finding out what has worked for other people or more importantly is aload of crap & not worth the money or time putting on in the first place [/quote
Funny, I’ve managed to find at least 20 other questions on the subject with loads of replies
nick205 - 8/7/19 at 12:48 PMOn my MK Indy I brush painted the bare metal chassis with red oxide primer then Halfords "chassis black". the black paint looked OK, but wasn't very hard wearing. The red oxide underneath never gave up though, held on to the metal really well.
The roll bar I rattle canned with red oxide then rattle canned with matte black, never had any problems.
jester - 8/7/19 at 09:58 PMThanks all for the sensible replys
Ordering some stuff up now
JonBowden - 9/7/19 at 07:52 AMPainting chassis parts is something that most of us have to do at sometime, so I think it's worth asking even if it's been asked before.
My personal favourite is POR15, I think it's worth the money.
Irony - 9/7/19 at 02:43 PMIf you want to go absolutely mad then buy Jotuns Jotunmastic 87 undercoat followed buy hardtop flexi top coat. They paint oil rig legs with the '87' for rust proofing and digger buckets with hardtop flexi.
jester - 9/7/19 at 10:20 PMquote:
Originally posted by JonBowden
Painting chassis parts is something that most of us have to do at sometime, so I think it's worth asking even if it's been asked before.
My personal favourite is POR15, I think it's worth the money.
Going use upol etch primer, on the as much of the bare metal and then std chassis black paint,As a lot of people have had good results
jester - 9/7/19 at 10:24 PMquote:
Originally posted by Irony
If you want to go absolutely mad then buy Jotuns Jotunmastic 87 undercoat followed buy hardtop flexi top coat. They paint oil rig legs with the '87' for rust proofing and digger buckets with hardtop flexi.
Have just had a look at this stuff online looks good value for money anybody else used this feedback please
joedredd - 26/8/19 at 04:13 PMI'm told Rust Bullet is better than POR15...but it's not cheap. It's one of those jobs you don't want to have to do twice though.
Wish I'd used that having built my car 17 years ago and used Hammerite back when I didn't know any better.
jester - 26/8/19 at 11:43 PMI am using the POR 15 Super starter kit plus a tin of POR-15 chassis top coat .Should be the just the right a mount for what I need to start with doing all the back tubes so I get the car back on it's wheels. Then if it works well I will get some more Cleaner Degreaser & Prep & Ready (Metal Prep ) & Rust Preventative paint to do the rest of the under floor panels
The POR 15 Had so many good reviews & It's all brought from one place
jester - 26/8/19 at 11:58 PMquote:
Originally posted by joedredd
I'm told Rust Bullet is better than POR15...but it's not cheap. It's one of those jobs you don't want to have to do twice though.
Wish I'd used that having built my car 17 years ago and used Hammerite back when I didn't know any better.
Yep Hammerite is crap done the brake drums/ Back plates all ready before asking about paints for the rest of the work it chipped off very easy just having them in the box together. I am not going to strip them down again yet just going to see how bad it goes in a short time