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Chassis Build - What Next?
ChrisS - 3/2/05 at 12:42 PM

http://home.btconnect.com/snellc/snellys/locost.htm

As you will see from the pictures on my web site, im well in to the chassis fabrication stage of my build and, ive just finished the floor and bulkheads, and all suspension bracketry.

I was wondering tho, what the next logical steps should be. All thoughts greatly appreciated.

1. Peddle Box
2. Steering Colum supports etc
3. Fuel and Brake Pipes
4. Paint Chassis
5. Paint Suspension parts
6. Bolt on suspension parts
7. On its Wheels
8. Ali Panel Work
9. Fibreglass Panels

Only trouble is i dont have a scuttle bonnet or nose cone yet to work out the placement of steering wheel and supports etc.

What do you all think?

[Edited on 3/2/05 by ChrisS]

[Edited on 3/2/05 by ChrisS]

[Edited on 3/2/05 by ChrisS]


James - 3/2/05 at 01:04 PM

It may be unavoidable but I've got really annoyed with how many times I've had to grind away paint to then add a bracket or something.
If you can borrow a nose cone/scuttle so you can get those brackets on before you paint the chassis then I'd recommend it.
There's also brake line brackets,
pedal brackets (depending how you do them),
Master cylinder bracket,
Steering rack mount,
Seat belt mounts,
Roll(over)bar (if you're welding it not bolting it),
Gearbox mount,
Handbrake mounts,

all are a pain to add on later then re-paint!

HTH,
James


ChrisS - 3/2/05 at 02:29 PM

PS

Any comments on the build so far from the photos ive put up would be greatly appreciated.

Always value a second onion . Ize particulalry proud of my front suspension jig. I dreamt about how to make that one.

Cheers.


James - 3/2/05 at 03:34 PM

Was it a nightmare?

All looks pretty good as far as you can tell from small pictures.

One thing I noticed was you've painted the entire face of the hub including the 'sticky out bit' that the disc/wheel centre goes around.
I couldn't get my wheels on with this and had to scrape all the paint off.

Also, any uneven-ness on the face of the hub (cause by uneven paint) will cause the rotor and wheel not to sit 100% square on the hub.

HTH,
James


David Jenkins - 3/2/05 at 03:41 PM

Personally, I'd aim to get it on its wheels - all of a sudden it starts to feel like a "real car". It's also easier to justify to other folk as well (wife, girlfriend, whatever).

David


Avoneer - 3/2/05 at 05:18 PM

Yep, I agree.
Go for a full unpainted rolling chassis.
I'm going to drill all the ali panels as well before painting so when it comes back from the shot blaster / painters, many things will (in theory) just bolt on easily and quickly.
Pat...


chunkielad - 3/2/05 at 05:50 PM

Defo agree with the full unpainted chassis idea, I started putting a rust proof primer on and stopped after realising just how much of it is going to have to come back off!!!

I will be stripping it back off so that everything that needs welding can be put on, all holes drilled and then it'll be a really quick transformation when painted.


dozracing - 3/2/05 at 05:51 PM

Hi Chris,

Send me an email as a reminder. I have some pictures of how we do the steering mount and its relative position etc.

Scuttle mounts on junction between straight cockpit tubes and tapered top rail tubes in the engine bay. There is no scuttle in the parallel section of the cockpit.

Looks like you made a nice job of it so far. You should be pleased.

Kind regards,

Darren


dozracing - 3/2/05 at 05:53 PM

Just thought.

I have a couple of scrap bonnets here you can feel free to borrow one if it helps. If you want to run up to Longfield and nose around my car then feel free. Just call 01474 707071 first to make sure Brian is around.

Kind regards,

Darren


chunkielad - 3/2/05 at 06:07 PM

Daz, when you say scrap, what is wrong with them? I'd be interested in buying 'scrap' bodyparts as I can't afford new ones and was going to make my own. I could adapt them to fit my McSorley 442.