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Chassis upgrade?
eenud - 7/11/02 at 10:21 PM

Found this link on another locost site. Worth a look if you want more stiffness!

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/acwsj/help/lowcostmods.doc

Ian


Liam - 7/11/02 at 10:51 PM

Looks like the work of Cymtricks (or something like that) who posts on this list.

One thing that always comes to mind when I read those mods is that if you fully box in the tunnel, how on earth are you supposed to connect the propshaft when you put it in? And anything else that lives in the tunnel for that matter?

May be nice and stiff but is it all that practical? Or maybe I'm just stupid?

Liam


welshy - 8/11/02 at 09:09 AM

I found it much easier to use 2mm thick tubing insteady of 16 SWG (1.6).

I know it will be a bit heavier but at least i will have peace of mind.....or will I?


cymtriks - 8/11/02 at 09:25 PM

Yes it's me again! The article on the link is part of my ever expanding write up on this subject. I got so many questions from various websites that I copied them all into word and added a few pictures. The full document is about 10 pages long and covers other chassis types in addition to the lowcost. Basic ladder frame design and general guidelines to high stiffness designs are included together with comparative data on other car and kitcar chassis.

How to deal with the propshaft isn't well explained in my instructions (I'll modify them soon) so here's how.

If you intend to find the length of the prop as described in the book then you wil have to leave the top of the tunnel unfinished until after the prop dimension is taken. For final assembly it should be possible to feed the prop spline onto the gearbox spline as the area beneath the gearbox, infront of tube B2, is not panneled. However the propshaft must be fixed to the diff when this is done as the rear propshaft flange will be inaccessible in the finished boxed in tunnel.

If anyone knows that this won't work for some reason let me know.


stephen_gusterson - 8/11/02 at 11:37 PM

on my car i also found after I got the prop that you cant fit it in! The solution, which wasnt too bad, was to take out the diff and load it in at the rear. I can get to all the prop nuts at the bottom of the car.

atb


steve


now getting to the handbrake adjusters.....looks like the diff has to come out for that too!!!!!


twentyover - 25/11/02 at 11:37 PM

Hiya Cymtrix

Do you have a URL where the entire document is posted?