Hi Guys,

My exhaust manifold/downpipes want to go right where chassis rail TR1 is (the diagonal between top and bottom rail).

Is it ok to cut it out completely or to cut it out and put two verticle bars in to make a gap?

What have others done in similar circumstances? (I guess I could change the manifold but suspect the former idea would be cheaper).

Cheers,

Mark

I'm having a similar problem here, amongst my stash of old Ford bits n bobs was a RS tubular manifold. When trying to use that I found that the manifold comes out and is blocked by TR1 too.

My original fix was going to be just welding some circular sections on the manifold to "turn" the pipe away from the diagonal chassis tube but it is a little too corroded to work with.

Does the lolocost manifold fit past ok?

Cheers

Dave

[Edited on 15/1/03 by Sideways 2 Victory]

Just install two tubes to form a 'V' that will allow clearance for the manifold tubes and still keep triangulation required.

Rob Lane

good to see you on this forum rob, another 4age user like myself. i actually emailed you a couple of months ago about how your 4age arrangement. i was wondering when you would find this site.

cheers
fin

Dave,

The manifold in this case is four s/steel Caterh@m downpipes to a 4 into 1 collector. I don't know about the lolocost.

I think I will stick a V in as Rob suggested, coz that is cheaper, and once the mod is done, all manifolds will fit.

Cheers,

Mark

Hi Mark H,

I had the same problem, except my chassis is not exactly like the books, cut a little section out and rewelded a 'Y', don't know if it will be alright, maybe the pros can give some feedback.


cheers
darren

Hi Darren,

Interesting-looking installation. Reckon I'll have the same problem, since I'm also using a Xflow motor.
How far forward have you set your engine, and how low in the chassis?

Dick

Hi Mark it may be easier to move the motor backwards to accomodate the exhaust. i have a setup simmilar to Darrens, and came across the same snag i got round it by moving the motor rearwards until it cleared the chassis rail. check davef in the photo section. cheers davef.

Davef,

That would have been the easiest - however, the motor/gearbox/prop is all in the car, so a change like that will effect a lot of things.

Davef's idea would be a good way for people halfway through the build - ie be aware of the space the manifold will take up, and where its going through.

DarrenSA's install looks good, and I think something similar will need fabricating on mine.

The lesson to us all is do it right first time!!

Regards,

Mark

Hi i am building 1300x flow and have used lolocosts manifold and it fits in just right.

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The lesson to us all is do it right first time

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How far forward have you set your engine, and how low in the chassis?

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Hi Mark, i forgot to mention that the engine is set at 50mm below the bottom rails,if you are reading this Darren the mods are as follows gas flowed head, lightened fly wheel, re profiled cam simmilar to kent BCF3 and twin 40 dcoe webers, shallow sump with windage baffles.cheers davef.

Dick,

the distance from where the block meets the g/box, to the umm footwell toprail(if I can call it that) is 200mm. The distance from the bottom of my standard sump to the bottom of the rail is around 50mm.From where the block meets the sump, to the bottom of the bottom rail(confusing myself) is 120mm.

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gas flowed head, lightened fly wheel, re profiled cam simmilar to kent BCF3 and twin 40 dcoe webers, shallow sump with windage baffles.cheers davef.

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Originally posted by darren(SA)
Dick,
the distance from where the block meets the g/box, to the umm footwell toprail(if I can call it that) is 200mm. The distance from the bottom of my standard sump to the bottom of the rail is around 50mm.From where the block meets the sump, to the bottom of the bottom rail(confusing myself) is 120mm.

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