After having to leave my chassis for a while half finished rust has attacked my cut ready to go parts. I’m not too worried about the outside of the RHS as I intend to sandblast the chassis but there is rust starting on the inside!

When the chassis is complete and the ends welded shut will this be a problem? If so any way I can get rid of it by dipping in something or what?

You could always pour some liquid rust eater down the tubes

Does rust need water or air to continue to rust?

If i shut the ends off the heat from the welder will dry them out and the shut ends stop air getting to it?

Any ideas? Do i need new material? Any recommendations of where i can source some in the south i.e. Dorset?

At the very least I'd squirt some waxoyl down. Dunno if you could guarantee complete seal.

Ian

Wax oil & welding = flame thrower.





Enjoy

I would (Iam!) use waxoyl and these:
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/search/SearchDisplay.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1464250764.1043695083@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccceadchgieemjecfngcfkmdgkldfhf.0&SearchTy pe=quick&SearchText=2372290&quickSubmit=Go

P.s how do I get rid of the web address and just put a word???

P.P.s The link does'nt work for some reason but does if you cut +paste.

[Edited on 27/1/03 by gjn200]

Oh FFS!!! just go here:

rswww.com and put in part number 2372290

Technology hates me!

You mean like this: Tube Ends

Just use the url button on the reply page. The first box that comes up is the one where you type the phrase (the 'Tube Ends' bit) and the next box is the one for the url.

That link doesn't work for me either?
Col

Thanks for the replys but i had already plan to do this.

I currently have a problem with surface rust inside the tubes and wondered how to get rid of it or if when i weld the chassis up it will stop and not get worse when i have blocked the ends up. Not worried about the outside because i will just sand blast it befroe i paint it.

Do i need more fresh metal?Doh!

Wax oil is brilliant. Properly applied it will stop rust or almost to negligible amounts. Weld your chassis then wax oil ONLY after ALL welding has been completed. Where you have open tubes blow quatities down the tube with a pressure aplicator with a long thin business end (wax oil can supply these). Where you have a sealed tube then the chances are that you will probably drill a hole in it for a bolt/pop rivet/rivnut/screw. When you do so next step get out your applicator and fit some more wax oil. When each tube has been oiled put a chalk mark on it, any not treated will be visible and away you go.
My last post was only an attempt to remind you that Waxoil is a parafin based product and when heated it burns very well.



Enjoy.

Thanks again for all the reply’s but I’m looking for a way to get rid of what has already accumulated in cut sections before i weld up not really a preventative. Is there any sort of dip or will wax oil stop the rust getting worse?

Its not to bad but want to start of on the right foot and don’t want to be doing it again later so if by welding this will dry material out enough and with application of wax oil it will stop the rust from getting much worse i can continue if not i may have to get some new metal to finish my chassis.

Any ideas, criticism? Am I being overly worried?

how about galvanising usually about £45 for a basket leave ends open for drainage weld on after and use something like galvafroid to touch up from a spray can

quote:

---

Originally posted by Gremlin
............ Am I being overly worried?

---

The acid dip prior to galvanizing loses 10 thou off you metal thickness, thats 10 thou each side, which is 20 thou. Not much you think but there are only 39 thou per MM and your rails are only 1.5mm thick. SCAREY

Also the zinc goes on at about 15 thou, so the weight of the chassis can nearly double

Also the only paint that sticks to galv is epoxy 2k, expensive and dificult to apply

Also if you need to weld it later (that forgotten bracket), you need to strip it right back, or you get "zinc fever" from the fumes, but like flu for 6 hours, eased by drinking loads of cold milk

Apart from the above it is ideal!!

Most people seem to say ignore it and not to worry but how fast will it eat through the material to the point it will be unsafe? Will it stop if i keep it dry?

If the tubes are sealed, I can't think of any reason why they would continue to rust internally, the current rust would stay, but it wouldn't get any worse. Just make sure the tubes are sealed, paint the outside, and don't let it worry you.

Kingr

Yipee!! My almost-finished chassis and remaining tube stock is also covered with surface rust after this turd weather. There must also be some inside. I'm gonna not worry about it too. Taa.

Liam

[Edited on 30/1/03 by Liam]

Thanks for everything i like Liam am going to just carry on. One idea i have had and may try is to use my 12bore shotgun cleaner brush. Worth a go.

Thanks again.

Phew, for a moment while I was reading that, I thought that you had misunderstood the term "shot blasting" !!!!

Kingr

[Edited on 31/1/03 by kingr]

You may be able to defeat some of the rust problem by using a dilute solution of phosphoric acid. This is a common fix. Phosphoric acid solution for that purpose is marketed in the US under brand names such as OS-Pho. Suggest you try your local automotive paint supplier.

Gene

Oh yeah - whilst being a builder for a while, I noticed that brick acid is also excellent for getting rid of rust. I think that's hydrochloric acid based nowadays.

Liam

i was told last night the kiddis fav coca-cola is great for gettin rust of bolts

get a couple of litres and soak your tubes over night

That's because it contains phosphoric acid, but not very much presumably, because otherwise you'd drop dead of respiratory failure. I can't imagine it's gonna get rid of your rust in a hurry, and it'll leave a nasty sticky mess everywhere, or you'll have to wash it out of the tubes, and that means more rust.

Kingr