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getting there
andy9391 - 1/1/06 at 06:18 PM

feel free to comment,more photo's in my archive

[Edited on 1/1/06 by andy9391] Rescued attachment pics 005.jpg
Rescued attachment pics 005.jpg


jock - 1/1/06 at 06:47 PM

looks mint but revs might take a bit of t cut


Messenjah - 1/1/06 at 07:15 PM

i think you have a bit of a flat tyre


andy9391 - 1/1/06 at 07:17 PM

thanks for that,i may get the revs blasted or get new wheels Rescued attachment pics 015.jpg
Rescued attachment pics 015.jpg


andy9391 - 1/1/06 at 07:18 PM

but its only flat at the bottom

[Edited on 1/1/06 by andy9391]


RazMan - 1/1/06 at 08:34 PM

Is the upright / wishbone geometry ok? It looks as if it is at the limit of suspension travel (if that makes sense)


SeaBass - 1/1/06 at 09:06 PM

Everything looks a bit dusty...

Do you give talks to folks sitting on garden recliners while wearing a high vis jacket and using the flipchar???

Sorry you asked for comments...

Oh and the locost looks good. Great to see someone still building rather than assembling.

[Edited on 1/1/06 by SeaBass]


MikeRJ - 2/1/06 at 03:48 AM

Looking good. Like the paper bodywork, very light-weight

Some discrepancy between the two lower wishbones?



[Edited on 2/1/06 by MikeRJ]


andy9391 - 2/1/06 at 11:19 AM

if you look in my photo archive,the lower wish bones are different to the one's im using now,the gas-shock bottoms out before the ball joints (top or bottom) do so i think ive got enough movment,thanks for all you comments keep them comming


Avoneer - 2/1/06 at 11:49 AM

I'd put the radiator right at the front of the nose cone - will be too much hot air floating around where it is.

Top ball joint locking nut should be on the outside of the bone.

Can't see anything else at the mo.

Pat...


Avoneer - 2/1/06 at 04:12 PM

Nose cone looks a bit odd as well - might look better more flat on top.

Looks like it looking down too much.

Just my opinions of course.

Pat...


andy9391 - 2/1/06 at 07:00 PM

im going to try and get the clocks closer,at the moment thay sit about center,would that be a problem when it goes for SVA ??,also locking nut for top ball joint does it matter if its inside or outside aslong as it locks ?? thanks for your comments so for


Bob C - 2/1/06 at 07:14 PM

re the ball joint lock nut: in my opinion it's a better engineering solution the way you have it: the 'normal' way the locknut is also trying to break the threaded bar at its point of highest stress!
cheers
Bob
PS provided the camber's right & there's enough thread yada dada dad...


gazza285 - 2/1/06 at 08:40 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
re the ball joint lock nut: in my opinion it's a better engineering solution the way you have it: the 'normal' way the locknut is also trying to break the threaded bar at its point of highest stress!



I understand what you are saying but that is how all bolts work.


CairB - 2/1/06 at 09:51 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
re the ball joint lock nut: in my opinion it's a better engineering solution the way you have it: the 'normal' way the locknut is also trying to break the threaded bar at its point of highest stress!
cheers
Bob
PS provided the camber's right & there's enough thread yada dada dad...


Lower unsprung inertia too by placing the mass of that big nut closer to the pivot point.


phooka - 2/1/06 at 10:35 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Avoneer
I'd put the radiator right at the front of the nose cone - will be too much hot air floating around where it is.


Actually I kind of like where the radiator is located. I'd build some funnelling aluminium to keep fresh air to to it. The nice part about it beign so far back is that it moves weight back, and allows a larger radiator.

I'm in the process of building mine, so this gives me ideas.

dale


MikeRJ - 3/1/06 at 11:00 AM

quote:
Originally posted by gazza285
I understand what you are saying but that is how all bolts work.


But not if the nut is moved to the inside as shown in this build. It is a better solution IMO for exactly the reasons Bob C states.