How to drill out rivets without bits going into chassis???
Anyone have a way of doing this? I need to remove some panels and I'm worried that when I drill the rivets out I'm going to have loads of
the mushroomed ends rattling around in the chassis tubing.
Any way around it?
drill the rivet out, let the bits drop into the chassis tube, then spray a bit of aerosol waxoyl into the tube.
no rattles, and extra protection for the tube.
tom
Hold a hoover nest to it as you drill?
I dont think you can get them back out.
The part left in the chassis rail will be bigger than the hole you have made in drilling out the rivet.
Theres no way of getting them out unless u drill a hole in the chassis and tip them out. Weld it up after.
Iv got some in mine rattling about. Im going to waxoyle it to stop the moving about.
Waxoyl is the solution unless you can get a hoover on the end of the tube.
Waxoyl seems the best solution if you don't have access to the ends of the tube.
A note on drilling blind rivets out...
to avoid enlarging the rivet hole and thereby making the next rivet loose...
If you are using structural type rivets that retain the mandrel in the rivet then use a centre punch to drive the mandrel back through first.
Then use an oversize drill to carefully drill into the head - DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY!!! (best done with a hand brace)
when there is only a small amount of material left holding the rivet head on use a cold chisel to remove the rivet head.
Finally use a parallel punch to drive the remaining part of the rivet through into the the hole.
Sounds like a faff but it's by far the best way to do the job.
If you don't mind the odd scratch, then most small rivets will yeild too a cold chisel quite easily, no drilling needed/faffing around needed.
Especially if there aluminium.
This works particuarly well on loose rivets where if you tried to drill them they will just turn round and round.
You're unlikely to hear anything rattling in a Locost... unless you've fitted a wimp engine! 
David
I've thought about this myself and the rattling.
In short it is physically impossible for the underside of the rivet to pass through the hole as it is larger; if it wasn't then it would not act
as a rivet
As for ratltling, I'd be very surprised if you could hear them when driving.
Now here is an idea.
Get a fine grinding bit on a dremel and grind through two sides of the rivet's central hole. Then use a small chisel to bend up the head enough
to be able to grab it with pliers and pull it. Hopefully the space created by the grinding will allow the underside to pass through. The remaining
half should be easy. Note that you do not remove the head on the top as the whole thing will fall through the hole.
A lot of messing about but think of the weight saving! 
... but the central pin will drop into the chassis so probably not worth the hassle.
[Edited on 21/2/06 by 02GF74]
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
You're unlikely to hear anything rattling in a Locost... unless you've fitted a wimp engine!
David
). Agreed it is very loud so I won't hear them, but I will know they are there so it'll bug me a bit.
Believe me, once you get driving one of these beasts, rattling rivet stubs will go straight out of your mind!
And if it doens't it just adds to the 'charm' of building your own little rocket
Having repaired a lot of old cars, fitting new sills and chassis members etc. over the years, I wouldn't worry about anything as trivial as a few rivet stems or anything. I've found pounds of self tappers, bolts and even condoms (still in wrappers) and they never caused a sound. If you're that worried cut the tube out and weld a new one in but you'll still get drill swarf in there.
Just out of curiosity, how many condoms do you get to the pound??
Mick
3 from the machine in the pub bogs Different flavours as well.