which chassis to buy?
doing this to sort out who thinks what !
and why you think its better !
if not stated please say
and no hand bags at dawn please
and there in no order !!!
[Edited on 27/2/06 by ch1ll1]
I find to get the best out of a supplier you need the personal touch, so pick the one that’s closest to you. When you have problems its best to turn up and do things face to face. imho
None are anywhere near me....except Caterham and i can't afford one of them!
DIY 4 me
wanted to do my own thing
wanted to learn about suspension design
wanted to use a 'different' (in the UK) donor
learned loads of stuff on the way
met some generous & helpful folk on here
Enjoyed the ride so far!
Bob
PS no handbags . .
now wouldn't that make this forum a nicer place.
May the first as****e to use intemperate language on this thread be struck off
bu***r - that'd be me then. . .
Im building a Luego partly because they are closeish to me and partly because of there quality of parts. Although they are not the cheapest.
If i was to build another though id build my own but would be tempted by the MNR Vortex as i like the lines of the bonnet and scuttle.
[Edited on 27/2/06 by Danozeman]
DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX,
DAX, DAX,
DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX, DAX,
you forgot to put the DAX Rush on the list, its the creme de la creme of the kit cars
[Edited on 27/2/06 by omega0684]
Build your own.
For one simple reason.
If you going to "build" a car then you need to "build" as much as is possible. otherwise you're
nowt more than an assembler and you may as well buy a Ca****am.
If I had the funds'n facilities then I'd even go the TVR approach and even build my own engine.
Now to sit back and wait for the flak
mk because they're just about the easiest to get to manufacturer for me, and at the time of buying the original kit, quality was A1, service was
the best i'd seen. that was december 2003, january 2004. when it comes to it, with any chassis, they're mostly just bits of rhs stuck
together with welding better than i can manage with a hobby mig.
currently, i really don't know, but the mk still fits my bill.
getting back to the original question, i prefer the MK chassis as although essentially the same as everything else on the market, the curved ends to
the footwells make the engine compartment tidier, and the chassis sides slope (drop an inch) through the cockpit which breaks up the harsh straight
line along the length of book cars. it's the right sort of price and with IRS too. the pedal box is simple but effective, and the front
suspension brackets are well supported on all edges.
for pure technical specification, i think currently it'd be the MNR chassis, but a bit on the pricey side. the aesthetics of the glassfibre ( DO
NOT CONFUSE THIS WITH QUALITY) let the kit down though, but then i'm picky
up the langold!
tom
Should be which one to avoid not a lot to choose between the big names.
S'funny - Stuart Taylor isn't on the list, but they must have shifted loads of chassis considering how many have won Locost race series
rounds.
I went with them because the chassis is "book" dimensions and I just like the low 'n' narrow look and they offered to tweak the
tunnel area to make sure my 4AGE and T50 fitted neatly, which they did.
Now, my next one will almost certainly be a home-build because I have ideas I'd like to incorporate (ultra-light chassis, eliminate bumpsteer,
rosejointed, Ecotec power).
Eddy
ST chassis makes me wonder sometimes --- I think I got turned off them a few years back when they ran an ad showing a Locost racer with the front spring mountings moved outboard to bring the shockers almost vertical which is desireable but from the picture the mountings just appeared cantilevered out which if was the case would be very iffy.
quote:
Originally posted by eddymcclements
S'funny - Stuart Taylor isn't on the list, but they must have shifted loads of chassis considering how many have won Locost race series rounds.
I went with them because the chassis is "book" dimensions and I just like the low 'n' narrow look and they offered to tweak the tunnel area to make sure my 4AGE and T50 fitted neatly, which they did.
Now, my next one will almost certainly be a home-build because I have ideas I'd like to incorporate (ultra-light chassis, eliminate bumpsteer, rosejointed, Ecotec power).
Eddy
britishtrident - don't know whose/which car you've seen, but this looks fairly normal to me:-
Harder to see here, but the dampers look to be at the usual "falling rate" angle for this type of car
Another pic
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
quote:
Originally posted by eddymcclements
S'funny - Stuart Taylor isn't on the list, but they must have shifted loads of chassis considering how many have won Locost race series rounds.
I went with them because the chassis is "book" dimensions and I just like the low 'n' narrow look and they offered to tweak the tunnel area to make sure my 4AGE and T50 fitted neatly, which they did.
Now, my next one will almost certainly be a home-build because I have ideas I'd like to incorporate (ultra-light chassis, eliminate bumpsteer, rosejointed, Ecotec power).
Eddy
Yep, exactly the same reasons that I went for the Stuart Taylor chassis as well.
And i'll third all said above, although if i did another it would be MNR'r round tube chassis for me, they seem to have raised the bar somewhat.
bimbleuk - 28/2/06 at 08:58 AMRAW Striker chassis for me.
I have no space or kit for making my own chassis so I "assembled" my car in the corner of a commercial garage who kindly let me rent a corner for a decent rate.
Plus points.
1. Very light and compact chassis (especially using T45 steel).
2. Inboard rocker arm front suspension
3. Offset engine position to even weight distribution.
4. Straight chassis side rails, unlike most which have the kink in the side which will flex more easily!
5. Intergral roll over hoop.
6. IRS, live axle, CEC or BEC are standard options not modified chassis'
Negatives
1. Compact chassis limits engine/GBX choice.
2. Compact cassis limits seating choice (factory bench seats are good though).
3. Offset engine limits the passenger space.
4. Relatively small boot space (as if that matters!)
eddymcclements - 28/2/06 at 09:15 AMYeah - the Striker is really nice. It has its own individual look while still being sevenesque, really good suspension geometry, loads of race wins, large range of engine fitments...I could go on.
Eddy
David Jenkins - 28/2/06 at 09:25 AMBuilt my own - took too long to build the chassis, but that was down to me and my limited time and lack of experience. Took 4 years before I started bolting stuff on!
If I was doing it again I'd still build - but I would probably take a week's leave and the chassis would be mostly finished by the end of the 7 days.
David
Fozzie - 28/2/06 at 10:38 AMI bought my chassis because at that time my welding skills were non existant, and safety of myself and others on the road to me was paramount.
However, I will say that the chassis was very well made, but, I very quickly modified loads of bits on the chassis, that I didnt feel were quite right! so it does not now resemble that manufacturers 'book' chassis. Nose scuttle and wings are grp, that was so distorted it all had to be cut and reshaped. It was a good job I wanted to paint it, because I was left with no choice. The rest of the panel work, including bonnet, I did myself.
If I did it again, now my welding skills are truly honed, I would do it all myself.
Fozzie
jimgiblett - 28/2/06 at 01:13 PMStriker / Phoenix. If your not much over 6ft and not to lardy.
You can go full body from a striker to Phoenix at a later date if you want to.
- Jim (just gladrags no handbags)
Hellfire - 28/2/06 at 01:18 PMGet to some of the shows this year and have a good luck at the various manufacturers chassis on offer. Take a particularly good luck at the quality of the welding and ask questions of the various design features before deciding.
David Jenkins - 28/2/06 at 01:31 PMI'm with Hellfire - if you choose to buy instead of build, go along to a show and look at what's on offer. Look close, be critical, sit in as many as you can. Draw up a short list and visit those suppliers if possible. They'll usually be more than happy to take you out for a frightening trip! I do stress the 'visit' aspect - it might be awkward for some, but you are planning to spend a lot of money so it's good to be sure... perhaps make a holiday weekend of it.
Also, have a good chat to the people on the stand - the reaction you get may reflect what you get when you ring up and ask stupid questions at busy times!
I have my own views on the second issue - but I'll keep them to myself...
David
NS Dev - 28/2/06 at 01:33 PMquote:
Originally posted by Wadders
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
quote:
Originally posted by eddymcclements
S'funny - Stuart Taylor isn't on the list, but they must have shifted loads of chassis considering how many have won Locost race series rounds.
I went with them because the chassis is "book" dimensions and I just like the low 'n' narrow look and they offered to tweak the tunnel area to make sure my 4AGE and T50 fitted neatly, which they did.
Now, my next one will almost certainly be a home-build because I have ideas I'd like to incorporate (ultra-light chassis, eliminate bumpsteer, rosejointed, Ecotec power).
Eddy
Yep, exactly the same reasons that I went for the Stuart Taylor chassis as well.
And i'll third all said above, although if i did another it would be MNR'r round tube chassis for me, they seem to have raised the bar somewhat.
Heh Heh LOL!!!
Funnily enough, same again here! If I had known what MNR were doing when I ordered my chassis from ST then MNR would have got the order.
Not so keen on the shape of their bodywork but they had to differentiate from the rest I suppose, and they sell on quality.
procomp - 28/2/06 at 02:32 PMHI i would like to point out that the procomp chassis allthough they never get much of a metion offer much beter handiling than any of the locost chassis. and then there is the LA GOLD chassis already described by one jurnalist as the best front engined rear wheel drive car he has ever driven. And the so called high price well procomp kits are the same price as luego at the minute
cheers matt
NS Dev - 28/2/06 at 02:42 PMAnother very good point!
I did look at using a procomp setup, but I wanted an "IRS" setup of some sort for road use (would have gone for live axle if it were only for track days or mainly track use) and I set down early on in my master plan to buy as much as possible to speed up the build as I have too much else on to make everything.
I considered using the LA chassis and doing a de-dion setup with it, but in the end, partially on price (yes you get what you pay for.....I know!) ended up using the Stuart Taylor setup, although I really wanted De-Dion not wishbone IRS.
Next "road" project (ho ho ho, another grasser to build yet!!) will be entirely homebuilt, and almost certainly transverse mid-engined for simplicity and cheapness.
BKLOCO - 28/2/06 at 07:05 PMquote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Also, have a good chat to the people on the stand - the reaction you get may reflect what you get when you ring up and ask stupid questions at busy times!
I have my own views on the second issue - but I'll keep them to myself...
David
I'd like to hear those at sometime David.
Perhaps at one of the Essex Suffolk meets.
Volvorsport - 28/2/06 at 11:39 PMwot no robin hood ?
full round tube chassis
britishtrident - 1/3/06 at 09:28 AMRH --- very soon -- I suspect
MikeRJ - 1/3/06 at 07:04 PMI think it really depends on your circumstances and what you want out of the project. If you have the facilities and you enjoy the building side as much or more than the driving then most definately build a chassis.
If you don't have the facilities, or you just want a locost on the road ASAP then buy one.
MrSandMan - 2/3/06 at 07:38 PMI would go with MNR because
1) Quality
2) Other than Robin Hood they are the nearest suppier to me
3) Because although very busy, both Mark and his dad afforded me a considerable time for discussions when I visited. (And I wans,t buying anything!!!) Customer service like that will be key if you encounter difficulties during your build.
4) Marks background should ensure that the set up has been optimised.