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LA LB LC LD
ady77 - 13/3/06 at 09:23 PM

Hi can any one help me with tubes LA LB LC LD, what are the correct angles. And what is the best way to make this part of the chassis? I have had to attempts and have wasted material. Help


big_wasa - 13/3/06 at 09:38 PM

Compound mitres in mid air I found that a bitch aswell, so I made a jig.

As for the angles, I just kept taking a tiny bit of at a time with the file untill they fitted.

I fully weled it on the bench to make sure it was square before welding to the chassis

Hope that helps regards warren

[Edited on 13/3/06 by big_wasa]


big_wasa - 13/3/06 at 09:44 PM

somthing you may wish to Know.If you are using book bones on the Gts plans then you will still end up with bugger all castor. If doing again I would drag Lc back 100mm not the 76mm as in the book

Wish bone bracketts hang of Fu's meaning you need to brace them if you dont. Pain in itself as steering column gets in the way.


Danozeman - 13/3/06 at 10:11 PM

I made up a jig out of wood when i made mine ages ago and clamped the tube to that.


907 - 13/3/06 at 10:36 PM

I do like the idea of getting rid of those pointy top corners.

Wish I'd have done it to mine.

Paul G


James - 14/3/06 at 08:49 AM

Ady77,

I only managed it on the 3rd attempt!

I just used a bit of trigonometry to work out the angles that each face of each tube needed to be cut and cut them one face at a time.

That's the key really, don't try and cut through the whole tube at a weird angle, just cut each face.

Then true it up with a good file.

Hope that helps,
James

P.S. Oh, and I cut my ears off (the pointy bits on the top rail) too. Well worth doing!


Bob C - 14/3/06 at 09:50 AM

What are those bluddy ears about?? I've faithfully made the proper ears & they are pointless, screw up SVA radius, get in way of headlight brackets etc. what was their original point?
How about extending that bar where the ears are to get a headlight/indicator mounting?
Oh yeah - the original thread - cut compound mitres with a hacksaw, scribing each face separately. Use a 3" piece of wood and clamps to make the front face.
Just tack it - it may well have to come apart to be able to fit the front susp. mountings in the correct position when the chassis is more together - be warned.
Fully weld when the mountings are jigged up, in position
Bob C


dave_w11 - 14/3/06 at 02:15 PM

I'm just doing these now aswell. I've tacked together most of the rest of the chassis and put in place a jig to hold the suspension brackets in place so I can hold LB and LC on the brackets to weld them.

For the cuts of LB and LC I made up some things I could print off and wrap round the tube to give the right angle to cut to.

Here's what I used based on mcsorley's book chassis plans.

Unfortunately I managed to fail the simple task of holding the tube in place while I welded them on so I had to take the tube off and will be trying again today


EDIT: Can you only add a picture when you first post and not by editing a message? I messed it up first time but when I try to edit it just puts the [img] tags in as text like
[img]/upload/04-03-06_2.jpg[/img]

[Edited on 14/3/06 by dave_w11]


andyps - 14/3/06 at 03:21 PM

I put the top and bottom tubes in place, making sure they were parallel, the correct distance apart (using a plumb line from the top one) and correct around the centre line. Having done this I used an angle grinder to get the upright tubes the right length and angles. Not very scientific, but it worked eventually and saved working things out for the extra 2 inches in my chassis height.

Having got everything right I have ended up cutting the upright tubes out as they were not needed for the way I am doing my front suspension.........


Peteff - 14/3/06 at 06:35 PM

I've made this one 25mm taller and I've also leant the top of the assembly back an extra 25mm. I thought about cutting the points off and welding a curved 25mm strip round to cover the cut but I may just modify the nosecone to cover them and the top mounts for the wishbones.