a)
b)
a) is slightly lighter & might mean rust proofing such as waxoyl is easier to apply. a) is also a lot more work than b) but I would like to know if the loss in strength or stiffness, would be significant?
Thanks
When joining two chassis tubes, which would be the best way to do it?
a)
b)
a) is slightly lighter & might mean rust proofing such as waxoyl is easier to apply. a) is also a lot more work than b) but I would like to know
if the loss in strength or stiffness, would be significant?
Thanks
"B", because it's so much easier to do. I don't know the strength loss of "A".
Virtually no one does "A", though that in itself doesn't mean anything...
[Edited on 8/21/06 by kb58]
if you're bothered about the weight saving of a, i can't think why you'd want to consider rustproofing! heavy stuff for no real
gain.
if the tube's sealed, as in b, it can't rust anyway once the oxygen in the tube's used up.
i'd say b
tom
'A' can be useful if you need an exhaust path for welding gases to escape just as you close up a joint. I'd leave enough land inside
the tube for weld penetration, so for example with 25mm(1"
o/d tube with 2mm wall I'd drill circa 16mm.
knowing how much of a pain it is to drill holes in round tube and considering the insignificant weight advantage of 'A' id use
'B'. it never crossed my mind to drill out the tubes like that when i was building my chassis. there are other much much easier ways to save
weight. like use a hacksaw a files instead of a grinder, by the time youve finished the car youll probably be lighter! 
Actually C. I had never thought of that but drilling a hole is much easir than fishmouthing tubing if the hole could be drilled in exactly the right spot.
Huh... you have a verygood point there. If you have do not have a tubing notcher, yes drilling a hole and leaving the tube end square would be faster than shaping it. OTOH if you have a notcher, no time or effort is saved.
If you have a 25mm holesaw and a bench drill with an adjustable table and vice then you have all you need for notching. I would have thought putting a
25mm hole in a 25mm tube would really weaken it even when the other tube was welded in, it might be worth a little experiment though next time I am
notching tube!
Caber
Yes I'd certainly expect it to be weaker, but by how much I don't know.
Err, isn't a 25mm hole in a 25mm tube just notching two tubes at once? Ie twice (possibly) the hassle as just notching the original tube? If putting a 16mm tube n a 25mm tube, then it'll save much hassle. And once welded it probably isn't much different strength wise.
id just drill a 4mm or so hole if i was worried about waxoyl, but since im not really id probably not bother at all.
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
Huh... you have a verygood point there. If you have do not have a tubing notcher, yes drilling a hole and leaving the tube end square would be faster than shaping it. OTOH if you have a notcher, no time or effort is saved.
I used option B, the tube miter Excel programme and 1mm thick cutting discs. Once you got the hang of it I found it could be done quite quickly. I
also tried using tube cutters in a bench drill & it was very messy, providing a much less accurate job than the Miter profiles and a bit of
careful cutting.
Have fun!
Rescued attachment August 2006 009a.jpg
Ive heard glueing is good 
quote:
Originally posted by dilley
Ive heard glueing is good