As the title says... Has anyone ever bothered...?? Mine is oint to be powder coated so the outside is fine, but just wondered whether it was possible to do the inside and if it was worth it...?

Cheers

Peter

I'm looking at doing mine, but more to stop the old rivet bits from rattling than anything else.

I gave a squirt of waxoyl thru each rivet hole in the chassis not sure if it's worth it, but as DIY Si says it does stop and drilled out rivets rattling around

I'd be amazed if anyoune could hear a couple of rivets rattling inside the chassis on one of our cars.

I wear earplugs to protect my hearing from all the noise - Exhaust, twin 45 intake roar, stones hitting the bodywork, wind noise etc etc. so I have no chance of hearing rivets inside a chassis member.

I wouldn't bother

There's something rattling around in my chassis, and I can hear it over all the noises and wearing a helmet! It's in a cross member, as you can only hear it when cornering.

Si, that's what happens when you buy a "built" car, it's done to bug the life out of you.

Don't corner then . I've drilled quite a few rivets out and as mentioned once the engine's running and the car's rolling you can only hear the wind rush. If anything catches I can hear it though, like when the brake was sticking on the back wheel or the cam cover was catching the pulley a bit.

I personally wouldn't bother with waxoyl because your chassis is sealed and will probably last 30+ years.
Waxoyl is also an inflammible parrafin based product and is a pig to weld if you have to do any repairs. It just keeps running into your weld

and once you've driven the car a bit, and the chassis tubes have warmed up, you'll end up with nice pools of waxoyl all over your garage floor. a right mess!

avoneer warned me about it, i was skeptical, i was wrong.

there's no waxoyl in my new chassis.
tom

I have waxoyled all my Landrovers (all 5 of them) It only weeps out on very hot days.
And is well worth it to stop it rusting inside.

However, the point about welding is well founded. Just prop up the bit you are working on, so the melted Waxoyl runs AWAY from the weld area. I would have thought that was a bit too obvious

However, how long will you be keeping your car, How long will it take to rust through if you Don't protect it.

The chassis will probably outlast your use for it. However, driving my Landy in and out of Fords (The wet things) does warrant they use of Waxoyl

Here is what I do:

Stand the vehicle on a couple of dust sheets that you can afford to throw away.
Drill a couple of hole at each end of the section to be protected. Allow the vehicle to be lifted at one end or side etc. so the waxoyl can drain through and out the other hole.
Spray under pressure with a Proper Compressor driven gun (NOT a Schultz Gun)

Also cut the waxoyl with 10 - 15% white spirit. It will flow much better and DRAIN out much better, and you can recover it with a bowl under the lowest hole.

If you MUST WARM it, sit the can in a bucket of boiling water, and keep topping up with more hot water. DO NOT heat with a NAKED FLAME. That is seriously dangerous

This way you use less, and get a very thin coat, which is all you need.
This makes less weep out in the summer!.

Then plug the holes with tightly fitting plastic bungs.

OK, its your choice, but having used Waxoyl for the best part of 30 years, I have found it to be very good. Or Damned MESSY if you over cook it!.

PS... It also makes an excellent flamethrower when powered by 150psi in a Long nosed Parafin Gun

Guess how I know.

Oh... and Kiddies.... DONT try that at home!
Its right impressive, with 6ft of roaring flame, and is deadly dangerous

If you've sealed your tubes correctly there's no need for it. Any moisture/air inside the sealed tube will turn to a small surface rust inside the tube and then once all the mositure/air is used up no more rust can form.

And anyone that can hear rivets moving around inside isn't driving hard enough!!!

Cheers,
James

[Edited on 21/11/06 by James]