Any-one got a picture in their archives showing what I should be aiming for with my welding?
I'm still practicing at the moment and can get a nice end to end weld ===||====, but am not really sure what I should see regarding joins end to side
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I hope that makes sense.
Currently when looking through the tube I can see the heat marks made by the weld... and I sure as heck can't break them. If I could see a picture down the tube it would give me a bit of confidence.
Ta
Michael

Sorry no pics, but have you tried welding offcuts in the way that you will need to for the chassis, and then cutting them in half through the middle of the weld, you can then see exactly how much penetration you are getting.
Another option is instead of cutting the test pieces in half, try smashing them up with a big hammer and see if you can get the weld to seperate or tear off the tube ( it shouldn't)

Cheers

Alex

[Edited on 5/5/07 by ecosse]

You can tell by the way the heat (red hot - ness) is nicely distributed after a good weld. One that has not penetrated would typically not have heated just one of the joined pieces.... unfortunately you have to make good & bad welds to see the difference (as it's cooling down for a few seconds after the run)
A nice symmetric set of 'fringes' in the nearby oxide will also result from a good weld.
Sorry I've no pictures.......
Bob

this is a pic of my first acceptable weld when i was building the hoist (dont mind the spatter around it ). with time, they've gotten better, so if you get something like this, you can be worry'free, as its ok...


professional weld

Nice weld on that exhaust CaLviNx.

Did you do that with the TIG set you imported.

Much nicer than the mig weds on my stainless system

[Edited on 5/5/07 by TangoMan]

Toms arc welding is pretty sound, if done a little too quickly. Slow it down, keep the arc REALLY short so you can feel the flux melting away on the rod, and the flux will curl away 2" behind you, and no need to chip it away.

calvin pressed the tubes together, rather than leaving an air gap between. The weld should have very distinct and regular 'scales' if done with sufficient filler rod. You create a 'keyhole' effect when done properly which ensures a full penetration. Just fusing the outer skin is fine for exhausts, but will present weaknesses if done on a chassis.

Bit daft not to mention it's a mig welder . . .

Sorry for the delay, I've been in the garage belting the join with a hammer, just managed to gouge concrete holes in the drive. I did the cutting in half thing and it appeared ok.

I think I'll practice a bit more and then take some pictures for you to tut over ;-) and give me pointers.

Thank you all.