Hi All,
So who has had their chassis powdercoated? How much £?
If the chassis (steel) floor is already fitted, i.e. welded in position, will the shot-blasting cause it to belly-out? Or can this effect be
minimised?
Keen to hear from those who've been thru this.
Was going to be tooooo expensive to have my chassis powder coated. Opted to paint mine with POR15 plus topcoat.
I've had mine done, the floor was welded in place and so was the seat back.
The cost was £200 cash. The steel didn't bow/bend at all and on top of all that, the finish is georgeous 
Shame after all that I still have to weld on the seatbelt upper mounts !!! 
So make sure that you have everything done before getting it
powdercoated.
Take a look at my website (I'm gonna get 10,000 hits before the end of the year) for pics of the
chassis.
RoadkillUK has a valid point, in that really you need to have the entire car built, and then strip it down again to ensure you have everything welded
on, and where it needs to be.
I seriously considered the option, but concluded that I may end up wanting to develop the car at a later date with various mods planned for the
chassis.
I'm soooo glad that I chose the 'painting' route now, as a) i underestimated the strentgh of the diff mount brackets, and even though I
had used the six side mountings available, tried to leave the car within two weeks of being on the road, and b) I strengthened up the steering rack
mount with a diagonal brace because there seemed to be visible flex when the steering was shook (violently
) from side to side.
HTH Stu.
Thanks for the feedback, guys.
Stu, useful point about the steering mountings.
Dick
quote:
Originally posted by Stu16v
RoadkillUK has a valid point, in that really you need to have the entire car built, and then strip it down again to ensure you have everything welded on, and where it needs to be.
I seriously considered the option, but concluded that I may end up wanting to develop the car at a later date with various mods planned for the chassis.
I'm soooo glad that I chose the 'painting' route now, as a) i underestimated the strentgh of the diff mount brackets, and even though I had used the six side mountings available, tried to leave the car within two weeks of being on the road, and b) I strengthened up the steering rack mount with a diagonal brace because there seemed to be visible flex when the steering was shook (violently
HTH Stu.
IRS and dedion rear axle mate.
It was a combination of things I think James. The top mounts were the ones that failed, which tore the mounting bolts out of the holes in the brackets
I had made. Original thought was "Mmm. Dickhead. I've left them loose", But the ripped out 'half moon' was still clamped
firmly between the bolt and diff.
I think that the main problem was the holes in the brackets may of been a bit too close to the ends, together with a heavy right foot!
I replaced the brackets with some more of the same material thickness, but with more 'meat' from the holes to the end of the bracket, and I
also welded extra washers over the holes as well.
So far, no probs....and it has been thoroughly tested
[Edited on 6/10/03 by Stu16v]
The way I looked at it with a chassis mounted IRS diff, is that the diff itself is the 'propulsion point' of the car.
All the torque comes from diff to rotating drive shafts into the tyres. The diff would also rather like to rotate instead of the tyres, but is
prevented from doing so by the mounts. Therefore, it looks on an IRS system that the diff mounts take the majority of the propulsion load, and not the
actual wishbones.
atb
steve
I'd agree with you there Steve. That's why I've strengthened the chassis and triangulated the floor to the rear end of the tranny
tunnel, not the rear corners of the cockpit area as per the book. 3mm plate will probably hold my dif on once the wishbones arrive so it can all be
trial fitted...
see my website for piccys under build>chassis.
Ned.
quote:
Originally posted by stephen_gusterson
All the torque comes from diff to rotating drive shafts into the tyres.