Hi everyone, sorry if I’m going over old ground but I’ve got a couple of queries regarding fitting a RV8 to a Locost….

I’m a BIG fan of the Rover SD1 Vitesse (I’ve got 5 to date inc. a 300bhp+ monster), as such I’ve built up a selection of spares including a modded 250bhp fuel injected V8 – I feel this deserves a loving home and currently all my engine bays are full. So what better solution than to build a car around the engine….

From what I’ve read, a McSorley 442 chassis will provide room for the V8, is this the case? Will it require further modification? (I anticipate the plenum top poking through the bonnet in a style reminiscent of another manufacturer that will remain nameless)

I’d like to use a LSD axle from a Capri 2.8 special as I would imagine it’ll provide the best way to put the power down and would possibly be a better fit in the wider chassis. Are there any problems associated with this to look out for? If the axle is wider than the plans in the book how do I keep the width between the wheels (the track) the same at the front and back? (Assuming it’s the same in the original chassis design – I don’t know)

And help and advice would be gratefully received…

You'll need to make some wider wishbones...

Or you could just have a narrower front track - I've seen w***fields with very different front and rear tracks.

Liam

There was a Rover V8 power'd locost at the last yorks meeting, don't know the owner, 1st time i'd met him, but it was all home built, worth a look if your local.....any Yorks lads help out here ?

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From what I’ve read, a McSorley 442 chassis will provide room for the V8, is this the case? Will it require further modification?

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If your using the Capri LSD you will need to make the following mod to the standard chassis tunnel, i'm not sure if you have to make it on the 442 chassis.

Basically the Capri LSD is a salisbury diff. This is wider / more offset than the escort Timiken diff. What i've done to make it fit is to build the chassis as standard but .....

when it comes to the two verticals at the end of the transmission tunnel next to the diff i've moved them towards the outside of the car 3/4 inch. What this means is you've 3/4 inch more space either side and instead of panneling to the outside edge of the vertical you now pannel to the inside edge.

if this makes no sense send me an email and i'll take a picture - i'm a little 'lubricated' with a amber coloured substance!

regards,

Mike

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I am currently building a McSorley 442 chassis around a Rover V8 and 5speed box. It certainly goes in

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Max, I couldn't say if it was actually necessary to use the previous, slightly wider McSorley 442, but it seemed like a good idea. Too much space got to be better than too little. There may be a problem obtaining a suitable nosecone, although I know that Lolocost do one 2" wider and another 3" wider, so should be ok. Why not email Jim and ask him to send you a file of the previous version, and then you can compare them.

Also, Max, could you provide a bit more detail about which alternator and brackets you use?

John

John,

I generally use the smallest alternator I can get away with, after all the cars don’t require the same sort of electrical power as ‘normal’ road cars. Typically something like a Metro alternator is more than man enough and the pulleys are about the right size. Mounting it is quite easy; find a bolt long enough to run through the two mounting lugs on the alternator with about an inch to spare. (It needs to have the same thread as the mounting holes for the lifting brackets on the head). Fix it into the most suitable mounting hole for your application (you may need to remove the lift bracket), and then use washers to pack out the bolt length so that the pulley lines up with the main crank take off. Then just use a strip of steel with a hole at one end and an elongated hole at the other and use it as a tensioner. Fix one end to a suitable timing cover bolt and then use the elongated hole as a fixing for the third lug on the alternator.

Hope this is of some use. I’ll be investing in a digital camera fairly soon, if you need some piccys let me know and I’ll send some as soon as I can.

Max

Thanks for that info, Max, it made sense as soon as I read it. Let me know if you (or anyone else)need any pics of engine and box sitting in the 442

Gotta start making engine mountings next, decision time!
John

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Then just use a strip of steel with a hole at one end and an elongated hole at the other and use it as a tensioner. Fix one end to a suitable timing cover bolt and then use the elongated hole as a fixing for the third lug on the alternator.

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Ummmm can I be dum and ask what a McSorley 442 chassis is, and whether there are designs for this chassis ?!?

My friend Jim McSorley who lives just down the road (OK 60 miles away really) has re-done the frame drawings in several versions.
Check out:
http://www.mcsorley.net/locost/
The 442 is one of the stretched versions.

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My friend Jim McSorley who lives just down the road (OK 60 miles away really) has re-done the frame drawings in several versions.

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